need code help

[SVTBob]

About a year ago, I was about 200 miles from home when I encountered a very strange problem on my 2018 modified/tuned FiST. I started it up after being parked overnight, drove down a hill and as I made a left turn the engine stalled. Had neved stalled on me before but it restarted right up. About 50 feet later, I made a right hand turn and it stalled again. It restarted but this time there was no response to the throttle, it would only idle. I happened to have a 10mm wrench with me, so I disconnected the negative battery terminal and let it sit a few minutes, then reconnected it, and it started right up, behaved normally until I took another turn. I tried disconnecting the battery again but this time it would not even turn over, got a wrench sign/repair now“ message. Stuck in the middle of nowhere, I called for a tow to the nearest Ford dealer. VERY long story short, the service rep called to say I had a faulty sensor. Not thinking much of it (really, not thinking !), I told them to fix it. When I got the bill, I was astounded. They had replaced my passenger seat cushion, saying the sensor was part of it. The only sensor I could imagine being in the seat cushion is the passenger air bag sensor. But I paid the bill, glad my car was fixed and I could go home. …… Until yesterday, when it started doing something very similar except this time I did not have to turn a corner for it to shut down (but turning corners still did cause it to shut down). Also, again, started but would only idle. Fortunately, this time I was close to home as I had just left home, driven a mile or so. I nursed it back home by disconnecting the negative cable several times whenever it stalled. This morning I put a code reader on it and got code P2610 ”Internal Engine Off Timer Performance”. I erased the code and then took it for a test drive and it behaved normally. Ran it through lots of corners, no problem. Anyone have a clue as to what might be causing this problem ? I hate to bring it back to Ford after the last experience. Reluctant to drive it any distance. Could this somehow be triggered by the changes to the PCM when it was dyno tuned ? (It had been driven for many moons by the past owner after the tune, so I’m inclined to think not). Both times, last year and this time, the fault occurred in the first few minutes of operation after being parked overnight. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.About a year ago, I was about 200 miles from home when I encountered a very strange problem on my 2018 modified/tuned FiST. I started it up after being parked overnight, drove down a hill and as I made a left turn the engine stalled. Had neved stalled on me before but it restarted right up. About 50 feet later, I made a right hand turn and it stalled again. It restarted but this time there was no response to the throttle, it would only idle. I happened to have a 10mm wrench with me, so I disconnected the negative battery terminal and let it sit a few minutes, then reconnected it, and it started right up, behaved normally until I took another turn. I tried disconnecting the battery again but this time it would not even turn over, got a wrench sign/repair now“ message. Stuck in the middle of nowhere, I called for a tow to the nearest Ford dealer. VERY long story short, the service rep called to say I had a faulty sensor. Not thinking much of it (really, not thinking !), I told them to fix it. When I got the bill, I was astounded. They had replaced my passenger seat cushion, saying the sensor was part of it. The only sensor I could imagine being in the seat cushion is the passenger air bag sensor. But I paid the bill, glad my car was fixed and I could go home. …… Until yesterday, when it started doing something very similar except this time I did not have to turn a corner for it to shut down (but turning corners still did cause it to shut down). Also, again, started but would only idle. Fortunately, this time I was close to home as I had just left home, driven a mile or so. I nursed it back home by disconnecting the negative cable several times whenever it stalled. This morning I put a code reader on it and got code P2610 ”Internal Engine Off Timer Performance”. I erased the code and then took it for a test drive and it behaved normally. Ran it through lots of corners, no problem. Anyone have a clue as to what might be causing this problem ? I hate to bring it back to Ford after the last experience. Reluctant to drive it any distance. Could this somehow be triggered by the changes to the PCM when it was dyno tuned ? (It had been driven for many moons by the past owner after the tune, so I’m inclined to think not). Both times, last year and this time, the fault occurred in the first few minutes of operation after being parked overnight. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.About a year ago, I was about 200 miles from home when I encountered a very strange problem on my 2018 modified/tuned FiST. I started it up after being parked overnight, drove down a hill and as I made a left turn the engine stalled. Had neved stalled on me before but it restarted right up. About 50 feet later, I made a right hand turn and it stalled again. It restarted but this time there was no response to the throttle, it would only idle. I happened to have a 10mm wrench with me, so I disconnected the negative battery terminal and let it sit a few minutes, then reconnected it, and it started right up, behaved normally until I took another turn. I tried disconnecting the battery again but this time it would not even turn over, got a wrench sign/repair now“ message. Stuck in the middle of nowhere, I called for a tow to the nearest Ford dealer. VERY long story short, the service rep called to say I had a faulty sensor. Not thinking much of it (really, not thinking !), I told them to fix it. When I got the bill, I was astounded. They had replaced my passenger seat cushion, saying the sensor was part of it. The only sensor I could imagine being in the seat cushion is the passenger air bag sensor. But I paid the bill, glad my car was fixed and I could go home. …… Until yesterday, when it started doing something very similar except this time I did not have to turn a corner for it to shut down (but turning corners still did cause it to shut down). Also, again, started but would only idle. Fortunately, this time I was close to home as I had just left home, driven a mile or so. I nursed it back home by disconnecting the negative cable several times whenever it stalled. This morning I put a code reader on it and got code P2610 ”Internal Engine Off Timer Performance”. I erased the code and then took it for a test drive and it behaved normally. Ran it through lots of corners, no problem. Anyone have a clue as to what might be causing this problem ? I hate to bring it back to Ford after the last experience. Reluctant to drive it any distance. Could this somehow be triggered by the changes to the PCM when it was dyno tuned ? (It had been driven for many moons by the past owner after the tune, so I’m inclined to think not). Both times, last year and this time, the fault occurred in the first few minutes of operation after being parked overnight. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.About a year ago, I was about 200 miles from home when I encountered a very strange problem on my 2018 modified/tuned FiST. I started it up after being parked overnight, drove down a hill and as I made a left turn the engine stalled. Had neved stalled on me before but it restarted right up. About 50 feet later, I made a right hand turn and it stalled again. It restarted but this time there was no response to the throttle, it would only idle. I happened to have a 10mm wrench with me, so I disconnected the negative battery terminal and let it sit a few minutes, then reconnected it, and it started right up, behaved normally until I took another turn. I tried disconnecting the battery again but this time it would not even turn over, got a wrench sign/repair now“ message. Stuck in the middle of nowhere, I called for a tow to the nearest Ford dealer. VERY long story short, the service rep called to say I had a faulty sensor. Not thinking much of it (really, not thinking !), I told them to fix it. When I got the bill, I was astounded. They had replaced my passenger seat cushion, saying the sensor was part of it. The only sensor I could imagine being in the seat cushion is the passenger air bag sensor. But I paid the bill, glad my car was fixed and I could go home. …… Until yesterday, when it started doing something very similar except this time I did not have to turn a corner for it to shut down (but turning corners still did cause it to shut down). Also, again, started but would only idle. Fortunately, this time I was close to home as I had just left home, driven a mile or so. I nursed it back home by disconnecting the negative cable several times whenever it stalled. This morning I put a code reader on it and got code P2610 ”Internal Engine Off Timer Performance”. I erased the code and then took it for a test drive and it behaved normally. Ran it through lots of corners, no problem. Anyone have a clue as to what might be causing this problem ? I hate to bring it back to Ford after the last experience. Reluctant to drive it any distance. Could this somehow be triggered by the changes to the PCM when it was dyno tuned ? (It had been driven for many moons by the past owner after the tune, so I’m inclined to think not). Both times, last year and this time, the fault occurred in the first few minutes of operation after being parked overnight. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[SVTBob]

Sorry I kept reposting this because it was not appearing in my listing in the menu !

 

[SteveS]

The most common reason for that code is a weak battery. The Fiesta ST does a lot of very strange things when the battery is getting old--it will still start the car, but doesn't provide quite enough stable voltage to the various computers. After you swap the battery be sure to perform the battery management system reset.

Manual BMS Reset Steps

1. Get in the car: Close all doors.
2. Ignition ON: Turn the ignition to the "ON" position (press the start button without touching the brake) so the dashboard lights up, but the engine is not running.
3. Flash High Beams: Pull the high beam stalk towards you (flash) 5 times.
4. Press Brake: Press the brake pedal 3 times.
5. Confirm Reset: Watch the instrument cluster; the battery light should flash 3 times to indicate a successful reset.
6. Finish: Turn the ignition off.

A secondary reason can be the wiring, including bad connectors, weak grounds (usually corroded).

 

[SVTBob]

Thanks for the help. The battery is less than a year old and the voltage seems quite good (12.6 with only driving).

 

[SteveS]

The list of possible problems goes from the battery to the wiring/grounds, to the ECM being bad, with a side detour through sometimes a fault in the coolant temperature sensor.