New Vendor, lots of ideas, need your inputs as well:)

[RAAMaudio]

Thanks guys

I do have to ask to be patient a bit, I am one guy with many things going on but I am a true enthusiast like you are and just want to help us all enjoy the new generation of the 510, that is how I feel about this car, that cool, really, I modded and drove them for 10 years.

---------------
Camber Shims (and toe, related in the stock design)

I just realized I will need a stock ST here in Feb, Jan is all travel, family time, so I can work on the shim specs to get them made and as mentioned I need 10 orders, might be able to get less if I whine enough.....and you will have to drill the axle holes a bit....you will love the results though, I sure do from my doing it the very hard way, took 4 tries due to a faulty digital castor camber gauge....your install will be damn easy compared to what I did

-----------------

Great feedback on the MM catch can, do you have any pics you can post and or part numbers?

-----------------

Front tow hook.

I drilled a hole through the hard arse stock bumper, dulling many bits, then used a BMW rear seat belt strap I had on hand to pass through a slot in the front grill.

I wanted it have it where the ST logo was but did not work out due to already having notched the bumper for more air flow(still looking for a decent price an aero tube to add back into the bumper notch)

There are not many options, willing to cut a slot in the grill?

 

[FistSt215]

Can't wait to see head light upgrade . Just came from drivers edition gti with some awesome hid lights and being my Svt focus as my daily with hid option I'm spoil driving with bright lights . I'm curious what's the market gonna have this year .

 

[RAAMaudio]

I have upgraded the lights on everything I ever owned unless they came with projector HID's so I know what you mean, especially since I am out in a small town in the mountains with more than enough deer, some elk, occasional moose and bear crossing the road.

Finding somebody to make small batches of drop in lights for us could be considered a difficult task as it may well be but I have to look and see what I can find. I have a feeling this is going to end up being DIY surgery on our stock lights or buying the EU headlights and putting in the best bulbs that work.

DIY with the Mirimoto elements would be a relatively easy mod if not for the dang glue used in the stock headlights. I am testing different methods of opening them up, hope to find the easiest way but there may not be one it seems.

 

[iso100]

I'd love a small sub that can fit under the passenger seat to fill in the lows. I am not interested in taking up the trunk area with boxes or amplifiers.

I have an infinity basslink but haven't installed it yet due to the space requirements (which are already quite small)...

 

[Gun_Runner]

As always, if you need help in the design and manufacturing, you know I'm down to help!

Get a group buy for bolt pattern swap

Power steering line conversion to stainless braided lines and AN fittings (I make them for the early focus)

Delrin steering rack bushings (I also make them)

Delrin motor mount inserts for race/aggressive street use.

Billet battery mount solution (made one for my focus)

You have the reputation, I would love to team up on making some awesome new products for these cars!

I may not have a Fiesta ST yet but the plan is to buy one in March after I get married, and would love to have some cool stuff ready to slap on it!

 

[Gun_Runner]

I have upgraded the lights on everything I ever owned unless they came with projector HID's so I know what you mean, especially since I am out in a small town in the mountains with more than enough deer, some elk, occasional moose and bear crossing the road.

Finding somebody to make small batches of drop in lights for us could be considered a difficult task as it may well be but I have to look and see what I can find. I have a feeling this is going to end up being DIY surgery on our stock lights or buying the EU headlights and putting in the best bulbs that work.

DIY with the Mirimoto elements would be a relatively easy mod if not for the dang glue used in the stock headlights. I am testing different methods of opening them up, hope to find the easiest way but there may not be one it seems.

Have you tried dissolving/weakening it with WD-40 or goof off? Sounds too good to be true, but WD-40 does magical things. They use glue similar to windshield glue in most headlights.

Have you tried a hot wire cutter like they use for windshields? Just gotta be very careful with the plastic.

 

[ed_the_sledd]

Any chance that you can look into making some boost guages? i believe one vendor had looked into it but gave up. heres a pretty cool example of someone that almost got it right:
http://instagram.com/p/xQEK8elaqz/
the main problems here are that the analog units seem to be in bar (although the digital readout seems to be in psi) and it's mounted on the dash. an additional kit to have it sit in that small window near the A pillar would be great!

 

[RAAMaudio]

Absolutely want to team up with you buddy, I was going to get in touch and see what we can do, glad you want to make a bunch of cool stuff, great news for us all

Out of all those you listed and what I have listed so far I will make a poll so we can spend the time on the most wanted things first.

We absolutely need one item as soon as we can do it, the transaxle mount insert, delrin or aluminum would be perfect, whichever you prefer. We need to see if any members in your area so we can get you a car to start on now, they get a deal, we get to make parts sooner, are you ready to proceed as soon as possible?

We can make a 4x100 conversion kit with wheel options included, I have a great connection on great low cost high, roll formed, low weight, high quality wheels, most in 15" and up to 10" wide!

Later he will have 16 and 17's, not sure how wide but at least 8", hopefully 8.5 and 9" I imagine.

Call me when you can, 801-452-5858

---------------------------

I will try the WD40, I have a gallon can, use it for many things like spraying frame rails, wheel liners, etc on my truck, makes it all shiny and detailed looking and stuff does not stick to it, trick I learned from a guy that drove his show cars regularly.

But, the glue they use is very hard, even a heat gun is not that effective, and the lens fits into a slot so I tried cutting off the outer lip, then cutting the glue I could get to with a knife, 2 out of three surfaces free, then heat, still a pain.

Great idea on the knife.

If there was a hot knife made with a U shaped blade it might work if really hot and can move it pretty quickly. Cut one area of the outside flange and a bit of the lens lip slide in and go....I will look into it. If we can find a fast and safe method to do this the rest as mentioned is pretty simple with the way the Mirimoto projectors mount.

I have somebody I can train to do this for a reasonable rate, he does very meticulous work, I trained him for years, my son, he was making $20 per custom computer he "helped" me on when he was 2 and loved it He wants to start his own business so I just sent him a text about it and other things he can do.

 

[RAAMaudio]

SUB.
I edited the first post on this thread, I have a great idea on it, please check it out

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Boost Gauge.

I took a look, very interesting, I might offer tweeter mounts for there once I have done my audio install, if it works out for really good imaging. It might be possible to make a gauge/tweeter mount for that area.

Thanks
Rick

 

[Hijinx]

Rick, can you acquire Sundown Audio components? More specifically the 8" subwoofers.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I have not worked with Sundown before, I will have to see what they are interested in doing as I will be mobile much of the time and having parts made to ship all over, most of the best manufacturers have agreements to not sell online, many products sold that way are gray market and not warrantied even if they claim they are.

If the sub(s) I choose to use are not available directly to me at wholesale but are available online for great deals then I will just make the enclosures, same with the amp(s) I decide on and perhaps the speakers but I can get the ones I use wholesale already.

The lower end Sundowns are marked way down on Woofersetc...as an example, I could not buy and resell for that price I am sure, one has to buy a great deal of product to do so.

I will look into them as an option if the sub I want to go with is not available to me directly though I will look for a good online price for anything I sell, if it saves you money and me the time of dealing with them we both win

 

[Gun_Runner]

Absolutely want to team up with you buddy, I was going to get in touch and see what we can do, glad you want to make a bunch of cool stuff, great news for us all

Out of all those you listed and what I have listed so far I will make a poll so we can spend the time on the most wanted things first.

We absolutely need one item as soon as we can do it, the transaxle mount insert, delrin or aluminum would be perfect, whichever you prefer. We need to see if any members in your area so we can get you a car to start on now, they get a deal, we get to make parts sooner, are you ready to proceed as soon as possible?

We can make a 4x100 conversion kit with wheel options included, I have a great connection on great low cost high, roll formed, low weight, high quality wheels, most in 15" and up to 10" wide!

Later he will have 16 and 17's, not sure how wide but at least 8", hopefully 8.5 and 9" I imagine.

Call me when you can, 801-452-5858
.

I'll call you later today. The best way to start is to get a trans mount to measure. If I can get one from someone who has swapped to a poly one, that would be awesome.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Nobody makes the mount yet, all it really needs is an insert. I made a custom mount cover to take up the slack the insert would fill and modified the other part a bit so I do not have the right parts here. If I had the aluminum section that bolts to the trans that was not modified I could put it on, put in some sort of medium in the top section, bolt it on and would then have a casting for you to work from.

When you see one you will see how simple this design should be

 

[Gun_Runner]

Nobody makes the mount yet, all it really needs is an insert. I made a custom mount cover to take up the slack the insert would fill and modified the other part a bit so I do not have the right parts here. If I had the aluminum section that bolts to the trans that was not modified I could put it on, put in some sort of medium in the top section, bolt it on and would then have a casting for you to work from.

When you see one you will see how simple this design should be

I thought Cobb and puma speed made one? Send me pictures of you can.

 

[RAAMaudio]

There are plenty of rear engine mounts(just there to keep the engine from rolling backwards to much) already including delrin that adds a great deal of harshness, the Cobb mount is great, I use one.

The transaxle mount, under the battery, that has not been made by anybody I am aware of and there is a lot of movement there as it is basically just sitting on the frame with a cover over it with gaps all around, approx 1/8" front and rear and 1/4" on top, that is what we need to fill up with a snug fitting insert.

 

[Gun_Runner]

There are plenty of rear engine mounts(just there to keep the engine from rolling backwards to much) already including delrin that adds a great deal of harshness, the Cobb mount is great, I use one.

The transaxle mount, under the battery, that has not been made by anybody I am aware of and there is a lot of movement there as it is basically just sitting on the frame with a cover over it with gaps all around, approx 1/8" front and rear and 1/4" on top, that is what we need to fill up with a snug fitting insert.

Oops, I was thinking the rear one.

I think I know what you mean. Should we do a whole new billet mount, or should I try to make a delrin insert, much like the poly inserts I used to use on my 97 Neon ACR.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Delrin insert would be less expensive for the buyer and the stock mount cover is a stout section as it is also the battery and ECU mount.

Or, if the cost is not to bad do a billet one to save weight as well as, no insert needed, depends on what people are willing to spend.

---------------

Later if enough interest you could make a lighter billet replacement mount for those who move the battery to the rear as I did, I made my own new top cover from much lighter steel and made it fit tight so no insert was needed.

 

[Gun_Runner]

Delrin insert would be less expensive for the buyer and the stock mount cover is a stout section as it is also the battery and ECU mount.

Or, if the cost is not to bad do a billet one to save weight as well as, no insert needed, depends on what people are willing to spend.

---------------

Later if enough interest you could make a lighter billet replacement mount for those who move the battery to the rear as I did, I made my own new top cover from much lighter steel and made it fit tight so no insert was needed.

Most people buy these cars on the bang for your buck basis, so I think inserts are a good start. You can make performance much more attainable, and and affordable to a much larger market.

 

[westcoaST]

What about a gauge pod that replaces the driver's side A/C outlet. You could offer a sound symposer delete, with a gauge pod and analog vacuum gauge. Have a 1/4" NPT in the symposer plug ( or have them use the Boomba one), remove and replace the A/C vent with a gauge pod and analog boost gauge, and you have a complete mechanical boost setup.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Absolutely agree!

I have had the best real quality sound deadening for the money for the last 15 years. I figured out a way to do it for a lower cost and then thought, "Hey, my fellow enthusiasts deaden well and save money". That is how I started and always ran my business and with great success