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No boost on my drive home... good in the morning.

Messages
56
Likes
21
Location
Baldwin Park
#1
In the mornings my car runs amazing. In the afternoons 1-3 times a week, especially if its hot and in traffic. I loose boost feels like I am getting 5 lbs (not boogging) but i need to floor it to accelerate.

Had a short circut code on my boost sesor (map) sensor.
I assumed it was because of the leak.
Fixed a leak on the turbosmart blowoff valve hose. Rebuild the BOV seals and adjusted to turbosmart directions.

Map sensor code comes up a few days later driving home in traffic. No power and bogging after 3000 rpm.

Replaced the map.
Worked great for 2 weeks but today stuck in hot 90s heat lost most boost no codes.
No bogging. Just a huge lack of power over 2k.

Thinking is the boost actuator?
Can it be seen not working when the car is at a loss of boost?
 


OP
B
Messages
56
Likes
21
Location
Baldwin Park
Thread Starter #3
Showed 118 degrees once i pulled up to the driveway. Over 1hr in taffic 98 dregree weather today. It happend the last 10 min.

No codes at all ran smooth. felt exaclty like valet mode.
Whoosh v3 intercooler.
Accesport 91 tune.

Wouldn't a code come out if the car goes into a limp mode?
 


OP
B
Messages
56
Likes
21
Location
Baldwin Park
Thread Starter #5
Ok first time in 5 years with the car this happens,
but it was heavy traffic temp outside 100* for over 1hr.

Is it safe or should I remove the 91 tune?
 


Messages
369
Likes
417
Location
Riverside,CA
#6
It sounds like the engine bay is just heat soaking. Removing the tune won't help much if at all. Turbo cars tend to heat soak in hot weather. That's why people refer to the winter as "boost weather" because boosted cars perform so much better. If you really want the car to perform better in this heat, I would look in to some heat management like a radiator, hood vents, coating, shielding, ducting etc.
 


Messages
445
Likes
520
Location
Metro Detroit
#7
Get an adequate radiator, such as the Mountune 3 Pass. Have one in my 2019 and in 95 degree heat the car is traction limited in 2nd gear. Meaning it will light them up at will if the TC is off, with the TC on the steering wheels dances like that gal in Flashdance. The power loss you are experiencing is how the engine protects itself when there is too much heat in the combustion chamber, ignition timing gets pulled and boost is dialed back. If it didn't do that pretty quickly you would be looking for a new engine because all the pistons in your engine suddenly developed holes in them.

Pluses for higher capacity radiator. First your engine temp will be stuck at 4 bars even when your climbing a 7 mile long 7.5% grade in August heat. Second, your fuel economy will improve by about 4 mpg with 93 octane fuel and the STOCK thermostat. Because these engines operate most efficiently with an engine temp of 195 degrees. Finally, an engine operating at peak efficiency will also produce it's peak HP. A larger radiator was step one in building a serious Hot Rod back in the 70's and it still applies 50 years later. Some good news is that you don't have to spend all day going thru a junkyard looking for a radiator out of an LTD Station Wagon with a big block engine.
 


Messages
332
Likes
340
Location
Northern Virginia
#8
I’m not ready to say this is just heat soak. 118* charge temps is not that hot.
Use the Accessport and tell us ambient temps, charge temps, coolant temps, and max boost levels during the times you’re worried about. Bonus if you can tell us the same thing during the times the car is running well.
 


OP
B
Messages
56
Likes
21
Location
Baldwin Park
Thread Starter #9
Worked great for a week.
Worked great at the same conditions.

But yesterday once i got off the freeway, on a red light. Check engine and service engine light came on and idling rough loss of boost.
Turned it off and on, check engine light on, service light off and runs perfect.

Same thing at 4am this morning. Car idled bad showed maintenance light. I restarted the car all good drove 40 miles without a hiccup.

Check engine is p0236 boost sensor short circuit.
P2227 barometric pressure sensor circuit performance.
First time it popped up since replacing the map sensor. Last month.

Sounds to me that my boost actuator fails engage, and turning off and on kick it on?

Or... damage on the map sensor wiring..
Replace the sensor already.

Happend stopped on a red light so i t hard to believe a short happened.
 


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