Echo what others have said that most of the 15” wheels fit, and that you’ll generally want narrower than stock tires for snow and ice for less forward resistance and a longer contact patch with a winter road. The only challenge is in general the wheels available for our car are limited with 4x108 lug pattern, but steel wheels are fine for winter - if you’re running them all winter you may want to find some caps to keep your axle nuts from rusting (in case you ever need to get them off)
Also limited tire options in those sizes - be aware if you’re not already that there are several significantly different categories of tire that carry the “severe snow and winter” designation with the mountain peak symbol, and there are night and day differences and compromises in each category.
The questions to ask yourself:
1) How severe are your winter conditions - do you expect to drive on a few inches of fresh snow or only light dusting on mainly plowed roads
2) Does it get really cold and/or icy where you are, or not so cold and snow/slush?
3) Do you want a year round set of tires, or dedicated tires and rims for a winter season (or road trips to snowy areas?)
All-Season and even “Mud+Snow” that aren’t winter rated do not do well in winter conditions. The rubber is too hard in cold conditions for ice, and the tread patterns aren’t adequate.
“All-Weather” tires are stiff all-season rubber with blocky winter treads. Just barely adequate for occasional dustings of snow and slush (not ice), Basically a tire that can kind of do everything very poorly except for treadwear.
True “Winter” tires are a night and day difference in both traction and confidence driving in winter. The things you give up are dry handling because of the deep blocky and siped (slit) treads which are squirmy, and also treadwear because they use very soft rubber that stays compliant at cold temperatures. In snow and ice they’ll last a long time, but if most of your winter is dry roads, they will wear down very fast - they also don’t really work as a winter tire even when the tread is still deep (7/32” is often the limit, and they start with much deeper tread)
“Performance Winter” tires are also a compromise that will do better snow and ice but sacrifice actual winter performance in favor of better dry/wet handling. They’ll still wear pretty fast if you drive mostly on dry roads, so they are a compromise you should only make if you are confident in your winter driving skill and don’t expect severe conditions.
The gold standard in winter tires are the Nokian Hakkapellita, made by the Finnish company that literally invented the “snow tire”. Unfortuntely they are expensive and sometimes hard to acquire in the US. If money is no object they are a good choice.
Bridgestone Blizzak, Michelin Ice-X and General Altimax Arctic are probably 3 of the best choices available in 185/60R15. I have used the Blizzaks and the Generals and found both to beexcellent and confident winter tires, if a bit squirmy in the dry on the highway (especially if your state puts grooves in the concrete). Probably going to try the Michelin next.
The Generals are categorized as “studdable” so they can be studded if you expect long hard winters with little to no dry roads, but they also perform very well as a “studless” tire without the studs installed.
I would generally choose the narrower 185/60R15 over the 195/50R16. The only exception is if you really want the performance option, Pirelli makes one in the 16” size, but I wouldn’t recommend it unless your winters are mild, you have a lot of experience in snow, and have the money to burn if you intend to drive them on mostly dry/rainy roads in the winter. True winter tires are generally a better choice if you are going to have two sets anyway, especially if you are prepared to swap them yourself.
Dealing with TPMS: Your 4 options are basically ignore them for your winter tires, disable the warning with Forscan, relearn your TPMS every time you switch, or find a shop (or by a special TPMS scan tool) that can set and clone the ID’s of your existing TPMS sensors.
Some people with short commutes have also had luck with just parking next to your summer/all seasons at home, since it takes the car several miles to notice they are missing.
Finally, it’s a good idea to still carry snow chains or cables even with snow tires. One thing to watch out for is that since snow tires have deeper treads than all seasons, you might find that with cable chains and other types compatible with tight wheelwell clearance, sometimes the “recommended” size for your tire size might not actually fit over your snow tires and you might actually need the next size up, so always fit your chains at home before you take them out in the snow!