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PNWFiestaST 'Build' - Ideas and Suggestions

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#1
Before I dive into the thread details, I want to provide full disclosure that I'm new to turbocharged platforms and have no experience in builds or piecing together the necessary components of one. I bought my 2018 White Platinum ST last year and finally decided to go down the rabbit hole of mods.

Coming from a 2018 Mustang GT with PP1, I find myself wanting more. That said, I have no illusions of turning the FiST into something it's not. To that end, I just pulled the trigger on a TT S280 with upgraded (14 lb?) wastegate, cp-e catted downpipe and cp-e Nexus exhaust and plan on aux fuel.

I currently have Cobb's Stage 2 kit with I/C and intake but only the intake and a tune are installed. My plan was to install the I/C and run Dizzy's stage 2 tune...and then I lost my mind and bought the S280, etc. Haha.

Questions:
1. Will the Cobb i/c be enough? I don't plan on tracking or racing...this is my daily driver.
2. What are your opinions on BOV vs a diverter? I'm leaning towards the latter but I know a tuner can tune for a BOV. Maybe a 50/50?
3. Will I encounter any fitment issues with the cpe parts?

What other things should I be thinking about? Gaskets? Extra bolts/studs? I'm likely going to have a shop do the install and start with a conservative base tune.

Fwiw, I live in a suburb of Portland, OR and so I'm limited to 92 for fuel unless I can find a close source of e85 and eventually go e30.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: To keep track of all my mods and what I want to eventually get, I'm keeping a list below.

Installed
Turbo Technics S280 Turbo
TunePlus Actuator
cp-e Qkspl Downpipe
cp-e Nexus Catback Exhaust
Cobb Intake & Crossover Pipe
Turbosmart Symposer Port Vee Port BOV
Whoosh Intercooler S pipe
Cobb Rear Engine Mount
Whoosh Short Shift Kit
4" Stubby Antennae
iSincer Turn Signals
Morimoto Fog Lights

Wish List
LSD
Xtreme HPFP
Bosch Uprated Injectors
Konig Dekagram or Rota Titan Wheels
Federal 595 RS Pro Tires
Pierce 6 Point Brace
Koni STRT Orange Shocks
Swift Spec R Springs
 


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MagnetiseST

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#2
Questions:
1. Will the Cobb i/c be enough? I don't plan on tracking or racing...this is my daily driver.
2. What are your opinions on BOV vs a diverter? I'm leaning towards the latter but I know a tuner can tune for a BOV. Maybe a 50/50?
3. Will I encounter any fitment issues with the cpe parts?
1. It will be enough for daily driving, but it will not likely be enough for highway pulls or consecutive pulls. You'd wan't something like a CPE intercooler or Whoosh V3 (nearly identical)
2. These cars don't need a tune for an atmospheric bov. That being said, with the S280 I'd recommend the Turbosmart symposer port BOV or the Turbosmart OE fit one.
3. Nope. CPE is up there with the best of the best. I love their parts and fully recommend them. I also recommend their tuning services for the S280, Mitch is amazing.

What other things should I be thinking about? Gaskets? Extra bolts/studs? I'm likely going to have a shop do the install and start with a conservative base tune.


Thanks in advance!
You'll need an exhaust manifold gasket, downpipe gasket, turbo oil drain gasket, new turbo oil feed line, downpipe to exhaust gasket. I don't recommend the APR studs, two of mine fell out, and they are slightly thicker than OEM which can make it a pain in the ass to install downpipes.

fwiw don't bother with aux fuel, get the 30% injectors and an XDI high pressure fuel pump
 


jeffreylyon

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Why anyone would bother changing stock injectors is a mystery to me. The proven path is Stratified 4 port auxiliary fueling whilst maintaining stock injectors.
Not having two fueling systems or 3 "wasted" injector-fires, pooling fuel in front of the intake valve are a couple of reasons. The single-port and 4-port aux systems are proven but that doesn't mean that there aren't benefits to larger DI injectors and HPFP as well. Check out of Adam at Tune+ has to say about it.
 


MagnetiseST

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Why anyone would bother changing stock injectors is a mystery to me. The proven path is Stratified 4 port auxiliary fueling whilst maintaining stock injectors. Btw if you’re going bigger turbo get a Borg Warner 6758. There are options within this choice no other turbo has. Take a look. Btw no down low tire roasting and top end soft worm. Lol
Because using an archaic 4 port SSFIC is tech from 10-15 years ago. They are batch fired injectors, not matched to the opening of the valves, and the system does NOT talk to the OEM PCM in any way. You will never know something is wrong until it just doesn't work. The S280 can pretty much reach its peak on the 30% injectors.

Adam at Tune+ did a bunch of work with both setups and he recommends to do both together for super high power builds, but hes making around 350whp with the S280 on e50 with only the 30% injectors and fuel pump.
 


Se7eN

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Because using an archaic 4 port SSFIC is tech from 10-15 years ago. They are batch fired injectors, not matched to the opening of the valves, and the system does NOT talk to the OEM PCM in any way. You will never know something is wrong until it just doesn't work. The S280 can pretty much reach its peak on the 30% injectors.
Yeah, that's the only real downfall of the 4 port. The fact that it does not communicate with the car. You can have switches and lights put on to make sure it's on but there isn't a real way to tell. The other day I had to test it by making it fire at idle and unplugging all the injectors and plugging them one by one to see if it would cause misfire cause of extra gas. I guess it's not the safest way to test but it works. Also the program is pretty old.
 


M-Sport fan

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#9
At this point, with the higher capacity injectors/HPFP now available for S280s and the like, the only 'benefit' (besides being potentially slightly less coin) I would miss from a 4 port, or single TB injector for that matter, is the intake valve back cleaning it also provides.

How much are hobbyist use walnut shell blasters nowadays? LOL [wink]
 


jeffreylyon

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#10
The stock DI injectors are already pulsing maximum fuel into the combustion chamber. The solution is not blasting more fuel into the combustion chamber with bored out injectors. Do your homework or ask Alex at Stratified Automotive Controls why and how he engineered their 4 Port Auxiliary fueling system instead of larger internal diameter injectors. Caveat emptor and do your due diligence.
You might have a misunderstanding about how fuel injection works. Upgrading injectors and fuel pumps is *is* the way to get more fuel into the combustion chamber for FI cars. The aux fuel systems are used when there isn't such an upgrade path (like w/ the FiST until the upgraded HPFP was just recently introduced) or for non-fueling reasons, like cooling the charge or cleaning the intake values.

Speaking of due diligence, Stratified designed their injection plate. Split Second designed the control system decades ago.
 


jeffreylyon

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Gasoline needs to be atomized for a full burn without spilling down the sides of the cylinder. A bored out injector cannot atomize gasoline better than a stock injector.
Yikes. The uprated injectors for the FiST aren’t “bored out;” they are Bosch fuel injectors from a different application.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #12
Finally getting back to my own thread :)
Parts are taking a long time to arrive, but the S280 came in today. What started as an idea is about to get real.

I'm still waiting on my exhaust but that'll give me time to gather the other bits and bobs. I also decided on the Bravo Alpha i/c so that'll get ordered tomorrow.

Next up is injectors and a hpfp. Depending on timing/shipping I might hold off on those but I'd prefer to do everything all at once.

Now I just have to find a trustworthy shop. Not having a garage or place to work on this thing is gonna get expensive :(

Any PNW people out there who can recommend a shop? I've worked with PRE in Portland once before on my Mustang, but that's it.

Many thanks to all the folks who provided opinions and input. I'm learning a lot from other threads as well.[clap]
 


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#13
There was a Ford Racing ALDRIDGE MOTORSPORTS (503-284-8484) shop in Portland that did most of my work, but they moved to Vancouver and now only do V8 stuff.Maybe they're taking ST's again?. IF.. IF they will work on your car, you can't do better. I've been going to Landmark Ford for most of my work, but if/when you find something better let me know, PLEASE. Since I don't trust the local Ford dealer, I've been going to and independent who has never let me down.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #14
My exhaust finally arrived after more than a few months so I'm starting to check off parts before I pull the trigger.

One question I have is about a new oil feed line. Can I just pick up a new stock oil feed line or is there something special about it? Sorry for my lack of experience...just want to order once :)

I've also found a shop that can handle the install. They're definitely more Subbie based but have experience with the FiST.
 


Se7eN

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#15
My exhaust finally arrived after more than a few months so I'm starting to check off parts before I pull the trigger.

One question I have is about a new oil feed line. Can I just pick up a new stock oil feed line or is there something special about it? Sorry for my lack of experience...just want to order once :)

I've also found a shop that can handle the install. They're definitely more Subbie based but have experience with the FiST.
you can use the stock one if it's for a S280
 


OP
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Thread Starter #18
Update: I'm finally having my turbo and i/c installed next week. I went to install the upgraded Tune+ wastegate actuator on the turbo and am wondering if there's an issue. The wastegate actuator rod is about 7/16" away from the wastegate valve arm. I can force the rod over, but it seems like that would bind against the bracket holding the actuator possibly and put unnecessary stress on the rod/actuator. Am I missing an extension or is this normal? See pic. 16201645648602358955016010087931.jpg
 


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#19
Update: I'm finally having my turbo and i/c installed next week. I went to install the upgraded Tunes+ wastegate actuator on the turbo and am wondering if there's an issue. The wastegate actuator rod is about 7/16" away from the wastegate valve arm. I can force the rod over, but it seems like that would bind against the bracket holding the actuator possibly and put unnecessary stress on the rod/actuator. Am I missing an extension or is this normal? See pic. View attachment 40301
Half inch is long way off keeping the rod straight. Something is wrong there. Dont just pull it over; it can't touch anything or it will bind; has to move freely.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #20
Half inch is long way off keeping the rod straight. Something is wrong there. Dont just pull it over; it can't touch anything or it will bind; has to move freely.
That's what I thought. I figured something was wrong when I took the stock actuator off and it needed a lot of side pressure to pull off the arm. It sort of sprung back to its original placement after I slipped it off the arm nipple.

I wonder if the arm was built too short or if I just need some sort of extension. Based on the actuator bracket placement, which looks like it can't be adjusted, I'll need to fab some sort of extension?
 




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