Prioritizing Brake Upgrades Discussion

[RAAMaudio]

My car is so modded beyond stock and was done so with just 293 miles on it, less than 5 by me, I have no way to compare it to most FiST's. The lift off oversteer caused by turning off the nannies as I specifically addressed as much of that as well as oversteer built into the stock alignment during the build by changing the rear camber and toe settings.

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I have had to upgrade the brakes on all my cars for many years due to track related heat issues so will always recommend it but with this car it leaves you with not many wheels and tires to pick from, I prefer 15's, why I put so much effort into my own DIY BBK. Replacement rotors and pads are very reasonable, performance obviously improved, weight reduced(something I have been rather redundant about here)....

When I can finally get to work on my car I am going to take some measurements on the custom caliper mounts and forward them to a member here so he can work on his own kit and hopefully make the mounts available to others

I have 11.75" GT rotors but can only fit one size wheel over them, 15x9.....

For all others you would have to use the 11" rotor to fit the 4x108(or 4x100 for those that convert) 15x8 wheels available and can run 225 tires.

Lots to gain going this route and not a ton of money to invest for those that track often.

For just running an event or a few a year, track and temp dependent, pads, lines, fluid and if needed the 993 ducts are likely all you would need.

 

[Siestarider]

I forgot about this thread, posted brake temp results and pics on another thread. Now after multiple temp paint tests, I suspect OEM pads run cooler than the Hawks I tried. Front discs exceeded 1250 F with Hawks, not with OEM.

I have a trackday next week, will run another set of OEM front temp paints. My experience is rears do not get hot enough to bother with more testing.

My front rotors are going to wear out within next 6 months, I would love to find a lightweight 2 piece replacement, so far no joy.

OEM brakes and pads work fine on track with BFG S-Comps, next set of tires will be a little stickier, have to keep improving lap times and tires are next. Front brakes will eventually become a limit, but not yet for me.

 

[McRib 1s Back]

Going with bigger rotors, but staying with stock calipers works really well. I'm running Porterfield race compound pads, and can recommend the setup for the track. Coupled with brake ducts, and your braking woes are pretty much over (SS lines and Motul
600 too). This is a great budget setup.

The geometry changes, and I was worried the ABS computer would balk (it hasn't so far). Bias seems about right too (bigger rotors out back too). Modulation is much better, and I didn't experience any fade at SoW CW.

Oh yeah, permanently kill TVC for best results!

 

[Siestarider]

Just back from 2 days at Sebring, same OEM pads on since 9/15. Six track days since and they are more than half used up. Now have BFG Rivals on, Harry's LT says I exceeded 1.05 lateral g's, hitting around 1 g deceleration on braking. Pedal a bit longer than I prefer, I assume due to worn pads, but overall OEM brakes and pads still not limiting lap my times in absolute terms.

On the other hand, I had the CMB ducts fully plumbed to front fog vents, ran temp paint tests, rotors stayed below 1000 F and hubs below 750 F. I dropped 10 seconds from prior PB, so I used the brakes harder than ever before, plus stickier tires. Brakes did not run this cool without ducts last year, over 1000 F in prior Sebring temp tests.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Very good results!

I am in the final design phase of my brake ducts, glad to see how well yours have worked out

 

[Siestarider]

I know zip about rotor air flow, but if the stock hubs and vanes direct air out, inside hub should be low pressure. So putting a high pressure feed that only slightly overlaps the inner hub may pull more air into hubs than one would guess just by looking at them.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Not sure what I posted about this yet, slow connection today so it is hard to look back and time to go work on the car again...

I am building my backing plates to fit as tight as possible to the inside of the rotors and then using a 2" as fits better aluminum tube with the end sealed off and a vent pointing towards and very close to ensure max flow right at the rotor vanes.

This is on my DIY BBK with big openings between the rotor and hat so do not want to aim the air there and the GT rotors, curved vains, designed to pull air through them, should be quite effective.

 

[Siestarider]

Next time I run manometer tests, think I will check pressures at facia vents and at rotor hub openings, if I can rig the tubes, check outside of rotors at vane openings, might be interesting to see what is actually happening with air flow. I do not believe I could have run stock backing plates with no air plumbing to rotors and had no brake fade or pad wear issues with stock setup considering the abuse heaped on front brakes. The Hawk HPS pads I tried last year are definitely not nearly as good as OEM with current cooling setup.

If I can keep stock brakes and experience no fade or excess wear with CMB cooling, I will be a happy driver.