Purge Valve Evap Lines, Need Help

[nply]

Came across a Kona Blue FiST about a month ago and was able to buy it. It's been ridiculously fun, I'm absolutely loving it. However, it started throwing two evap codes and a purge valve code about a week ago. I went and removed the evap hoses and the purge valve and found that the purge valve had been previously replaced, but the evap lines were cracked at the purge valve ends. The fix that they came up with was putting some thin heat shrink on the cracked bits, which evidently worked for a time, but it wore through and isn't working anymore. I tried a more permanent fix with some vinyl tube and hose clamps, but that didn't seem to work either. Still showing codes and there's a funky noise up front that I can only assume is a leak from the lines. Can't find the OEM evap lines anywhere online, either out of stock or just not there. Does anyone have anything they've done that worked when replacing the lines or any other suggestions? I'm hoping to figure something out without having to break the bank. I have another vehicle so I have some time, but I was hoping to post it for sale and can't really do that until I fix the FiST. Thanks.

TLDR: Purge valve lines cracked at purge valve end, need a permanent and ideally economical fix.

 

[dhminer]

Replace the whole assembly. It takes about 30 minutes to do. Convert it to a 2014-2015 harness that has less issues. Can get it from whoosh.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Link to the 2014-2015 EVAP line at whoosh.

If your car has the Venturi on the induction hose you’ll need an early model induction hose (or aftermarket) to match. Not sure I’d call it “economical”, but it’s the right way to fix it permanently (or at least until it eventually goes in 5-7 years like they all do)

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...-to-convert-2016-fiesta-st-to-2014-2015-specs

FYI the lines and valve are not sold separately, nor are they easily separable. Only the full vacuum harness (valve/lines/fittings) as one piece

 

[rallytaff]

My car was 9yrs old last month and I've never had that problem!

 

[Dialcaliper]

My car was 9yrs old last month and I've never had that problem!

Okay “many” not “all”. I don’t know if there’s any basis for saying this, but it seems like it might be more common in the later models with the two piece/venturi version. Maybe since the (plastic) valve is under higher vacuum pressure (from the venturi pump)

 

[rallytaff]

Thank you.

 

[nply]

Link to the 2014-2015 EVAP line at whoosh.

If your car has the Venturi on the induction hose you’ll need an early model induction hose (or aftermarket) to match. Not sure I’d call it “economical”, but it’s the right way to fix it permanently (or at least until it eventually goes in 5-7 years like they all do)

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopif...-to-convert-2016-fiesta-st-to-2014-2015-specs

FYI the lines and valve are not sold separately, nor are they easily separable. Only the full vacuum harness (valve/lines/fittings) as one piece

Came across that assembly from Whoosh while I was looking for parts, was hoping to fix it some other way. Makes a lot of sense that I can't find the '16+ system if it's worse than what came before. Ah beans. Gotta do what we gotta do. Thanks for the suggestion. Might as well make the best of it and get a decent aftermarket induction hose

 

[nply]

Well, I was able to install the new induction hose and '14-'15 purge valve and lines, but no dice. Forgot to plug the purge valve in at first but after realizing and plugging it in, there was no change. Still getting the codes and still getting a sort of burbly noise from the front. Might be wrong but it seems like some air leak somewhere. If nobody here has any ideas, I'll end up taking it to a mechanic, no other options really.

 

[WannabeST]

When I changed mine, I think it took two full gas tanks worth of driving for the code to clear and for mine to not almost stall on idle after filling up. It's ultimately up to you how comfortable you are waiting but that was my experience.

 

[Dialcaliper]

When I changed mine, I think it took two full gas tanks worth of driving for the code to clear and for mine to not almost stall on idle after filling up. It's ultimately up to you how comfortable you are waiting but that was my experience.

If you have an OBD adapter and Forscan you can clear the code manually, which can be helpful as you’ll actually see immediately if the code pops again (as opposed to waiting a long time for it to clear on its own)

 

[nply]

Ah, that makes sense. Well, there doesn't seem to be any reason not to drive it at this point so unless I get an obd reader I'll just hope it's good to go. Thanks everyone.

 

[WannabeST]

If you have an OBD adapter and Forscan you can clear the code manually, which can be helpful as you’ll actually see immediately if the code pops again (as opposed to waiting a long time for it to clear on its own)

The funny thing was I had my OBDlink connected already for data logging intake temps. IDK why it never crossed my mind to clear the code lmao

 

[FiestaSTdude]

When I changed mine, I think it took two full gas tanks worth of driving for the code to clear and for mine to not almost stall on idle after filling up. It's ultimately up to you how comfortable you are waiting but that was my experience.

You have a normal fiesta, not an ST. Do they have the same issue with the purge valve as the STs do?

 

[WannabeST]

You have a normal fiesta, not an ST. Do they have the same issue with the purge valve as the STs do?

They do actually. Don’t quote me on this, but I believe they use the same part number for the valve. Mine went bad at around 35k miles. And on my girlfriends base model. Hers also starting going bad around 70k miles.