Question on installing Cobb RMM

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#1
This maybe a sorta dumb question, but I'm planning on installing the Cobb RMM. I read you can't install the RMM with the car on ramps, so I'm trying to think of another way to do it.

I only have 2 jack stands ATM, do you think I could elevate the car enough with the scissor jack to put the jack stands near the front of the side skirts? I don't really have a need for jack stands currently, so I don't really want to buy more unless I need them. I'll buy them if necessary though....

Hopefully that makes sense...

Thanks
 


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#3
I did mine on ramps, it's just a torque mount. Doesn't actually hold the motor up or anything. It was an easy install.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #4
Huh...guy said he couldn't get it lined up on ramps....

Well that solves that! Thanks guys!
 


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#5
Yea it's really easy. Don't stress over it. Ramps should be fine
 


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#6
To answer your question in the OP, yes you can do that. I've done it a couple of times when I haven't had my car at the shop.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #7
Sweet! Thanks guys

Courtesy booty pic

 


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#8
Sweet! Thanks guys

Courtesy booty pic

Hey! I also bought my FiST from Earnhardt, was that a used one? I think I was looking at this one but ended up going with a black one. This color is awesome though!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #9
No, it was actually fresh off the truck. Got it in April.

Join our group if you haven't already. Need more FIST owners :)
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1483869495199734/


After probably an hour of swearing and absolute despair, managed to get the Cobb RMM installed. Installed it on ramps with no issues.
Those bolts were TIGHT and the RMM bracket didn't want to come off.... WD40 and hammers are your friend.
I wonder if they fixed the RMM for 2015 FISTs.... It feels a bit better when shifting at high rpms, but it's not drastic.
I don't want to launch the car, so that's probably where I would notice the biggest difference.
Overall, not a huge difference.

Also got the Cobb shift knob installed. Love the shift knob, little bit taller so the shifter isn't so low. Has a great feel. Me likey.
 


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#10
After watching vids on the Cobb RMM, I can't wait to get my stage 1. Now, do I go wheels -> stage 1 or the other way around? Decisions......
 


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#11
The instructions that came with my CP-e RMM said to jack up the transmission with a jack before replacing the mount. Is this really necessary? I didn't think the RMM supported the transmission in any way.
 


haste

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#12
The instructions that came with my CP-e RMM said to jack up the transmission with a jack before replacing the mount. Is this really necessary? I didn't think the RMM supported the transmission in any way.
The engine can swing with the RMM uninstalled. I gently secured the engine with a jack and a block of wood before removing the old mount. It kept the engine in the exact position needed for installation of the new mount. I am not sure how much harder it would be with the engine swinging front to back freely.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #13
I did mine on rhino ramps without using jack stands. Worked fine.
 


J2FoRS

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#14
I did mine on ramps without jacking engine or tranny. Just had to give the engine a little "shove" towards the front of the car in order to line up the new RMM properly to get it bolted in.
 


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#15
How hard are you supposed to torque the bolts? And did anybody use loctite or anti-seize?
 


westcoaST

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#17
It is not necessary to use jack stands to install a RMM. What jack stands do, however, is make it easier to move the engine so as to align the bolt holes with the bolts so that you can remove the RMM and install the new RMM without hammers and cursing. Using a lever like a crowbar will accomplish the same engine movement and alignment. If you have a splitter, then I wouldn't recommend the use of a ramp, unless you go very slow up and down the ramp, to avoid cracking your splitter. Most of the time, using a ramp or not makes no difference on ease of getting the bolts out and then in again. I don't believe its a good idea to pound on a bolt to get it to fit.
 


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Thread Starter #18
The bolts on mine were crazy tight so I basically just got them as tight as I could... I didn't use any thread locker, so far they are still tight.

I used ramps and I didn't have to hammer anything to fit. Just swapped out the old one and slid the new one in. It's really simple.

The hardest part is getting the factory mounting bracket off the OEM RMM and onto the new one. Much hammering and WD40 was used... It was on so tight I thought I might break the bracket. A vice would be handy in that situation...

It's really straight forward.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIu9Up3Hi0o
 


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#19
Just installed the rmm and no pistons pedal spacer! The pedal spacer was more of a task than the rmm. I used ramps and got it installed in about 20 minutes.
 


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