Triple R Splitters Back in Stock at FSWERKS!

D1JL

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#22
I believe that is the only how-to around.



Dave
 


RAAMaudio

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#23
I wanted to buy a spare out of this batch but I just bought the sub, tweeters, mids, radiator, and more parts as well as paid for some other parts I had forgotten to pay earlier and got a reminder on....and $500 on parts for the 4runner I am sold and have to order the HU for my dually to finish up the system in it. I guess I have to be easy on the one I have, modded to include a full length undertray, or take it off for the winter though I do not plan to drive in the snow, I have an 8,000+ lb 6WD for that:)
 


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#29
Was the pre-drilled hole alignment the only issue with the install? Looking really good.
I didn't have an issue with that. Just having to hold it up and get it aligned was a pain. With two people it's easier.
 


westcoaST

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#31
I'd use a block of wood and a hydraulic jack to hold it in place while securing it. I'm also going to use rubber fender washers and stainless metric fasteners. Cost is very low (less than 10.00 at Amazon and bolt depot). I plan on using countersunk allen head bolts (6mm) with finishing washers, rubber and stainless steel fender washers to make mine like D1JL did, except I'm using metric stuff. Fiberglass is very brittle, and likes to be in compression with a large surface area. Otherwise bolt holes crack and then need to be fixed. Urethane is more forgiving but that is not what was used for this spoiler. I'll be putting together a how-to as soon as I can install mine. I'm also thinking of a rubber edge mold lip to protect against squirrels and other critters. I'll see what I can find.
 


RAAMaudio

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#34
I may of posted some of this but a pretty easy mod is to sand the back lip off, which is better even if not doing the next step, then laying it out on a sheet of Alumalite, 6mm, tracing the lip edge, cutting it out and then fastening to the spoiler from underneath so the Alumalite is tucked behind the leading edge out of site.

I use the 4' wide end then some scrap sections as fillers, plenty of area for solid mounting those, I may of only gotten 1 undertray if I had cut full width, I have nearly enough left for two more so will make a spare.

I made it go all the way to the subframe where I used sq tubing to make a subframe brace and rear mount so I have a very big undertray.

It would work well making it not so deep or just as deep as the splitter if a points issue for a particular race class.

I made some aluminum angle mounts at the rear lower section of the radiator support and used fender washers there as well as all the rest of the mount points.

This thing works, I have great front grip into high speed corners, no push at all, very stable up to the 130 MPH I was hitting on the front straight and under braking. The only push the car had was simply from over driving it a bit on some lower speed corners and only when my tires were hot.

I did however have too much engine bay heat when I had the car at the track when I went to the Octane Academy, the Ford race shop manager drove the car around the garage area and loved it and recommended I duct some air up to help draw more out of the bay so I make a nice curved one, side panels, skirted, to blow air up towards the DP area and it helped hugely. Since it pulls more air through the engine bay it may reduce drag a bit as well had a huge cooling help.

I was going to use the fog lights for brake ducts but the opening above the lip feeds into a curved sealed channel I am going to port for the brake ducts and get to keep the fogs:)



I have scraped the lip more than a few times, seemingly hard enough once to bend it but nothing happened except minor scuff on the leading edge.

I am looking for a picture of the duct section I made.
 


RAAMaudio

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#35
A more radical one could easily be made by not cutting off the rear lip and mounting the Alumalite below the splitter and having it extend out and to the sides more. It is a low cost(I pay around $100 for a 4x8 sheet wholesale), low weight, very strong, very stiff, expendable compared to CF....
 


westcoaST

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#36
I may of posted some of this but a pretty easy mod is to sand the back lip off, which is better even if not doing the next step, then laying it out on a sheet of Alumalite, 6mm, tracing the lip edge, cutting it out and then fastening to the spoiler from underneath so the Alumalite is tucked behind the leading edge out of site.

I use the 4' wide end then some scrap sections as fillers, plenty of area for solid mounting those, I may of only gotten 1 undertray if I had cut full width, I have nearly enough left for two more so will make a spare.

I made it go all the way to the subframe where I used sq tubing to make a subframe brace and rear mount so I have a very big undertray.

It would work well making it not so deep or just as deep as the splitter if a points issue for a particular race class.

I made some aluminum angle mounts at the rear lower section of the radiator support and used fender washers there as well as all the rest of the mount points.

This thing works, I have great front grip into high speed corners, no push at all, very stable up to the 130 MPH I was hitting on the front straight and under braking. The only push the car had was simply from over driving it a bit on some lower speed corners and only when my tires were hot.

I did however have too much engine bay heat when I had the car at the track when I went to the Octane Academy, the Ford race shop manager drove the car around the garage area and loved it and recommended I duct some air up to help draw more out of the bay so I make a nice curved one, side panels, skirted, to blow air up towards the DP area and it helped hugely. Since it pulls more air through the engine bay it may reduce drag a bit as well had a huge cooling help.

I was going to use the fog lights for brake ducts but the opening above the lip feeds into a curved sealed channel I am going to port for the brake ducts and get to keep the fogs:)



I have scraped the lip more than a few times, seemingly hard enough once to bend it but nothing happened except minor scuff on the leading edge.

I am looking for a picture of the duct section I made.
A very clean install, as usual. When I retire, I want to be like you
 


RAAMaudio

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#37
Having a wide variety of tools and a lift makes this stuff incredibly easier and more fun, if you are going to be seriously modding cars or just like the easy of simpler mods, maintenance, etc....put a lift high on your priority list, one less car build would pay for a lift and a bunch of other really cool tools, best thing I ever bought besides a welder which I am on my third upgrade. Once I get done with major traveling and setting down and have a bit more shop space I want to get a drive on lift as well with alignment rack, TIG and a plasma cutter.

I have a tubing bender for cages, dimply dies, bead rollers, sheet metal brake, metal and a carbide chop saws.

I also have wood working, wiring, plumbing, framing, flooring, model building, etc...tools, lots of them and they have paid for themselves many times over.

I was considering selling a lot of my tools but decided to setup a very good shop, off the grid, then I can make anything I need and make things to barter and trade with for the foods we do not grow but I am going to build a bit greenhouse as well as have a big organic garden.
 


koozy

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#39
Yep, I realize that but there may be some that may still pay that price.
 


stuntdoogie

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#40
There will be another batch from fswerks next month just wait it out.
 


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