Up for my first oil change should I take it to the dealer or do it myself ?

[M-Sport fan]

I come from the mazdaspeed world. one of the earliest performance DI engines on the mass market. many more small things to think about on that engine than in the current DI engines, but penzzoil platinum came back with great oil analysis all the time. i used it exclusively on my car from its first oil change to when i sold it at 108 with perfect compression. and that engine was not babied, used, abused and enjoyed with a big turbo and many autocrosses and canyon runs at 350whp and a short stint at 400whp until the clutch could no longer hold. i will continue to use PP in this platform.

as for oil filters, check out this comparison granted it is a few years old http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/forum/f427/oil-covered-now-what-best-oil-filter-106998/

YES, ALSO one of the better/best synthetic oils on the mass market.

At one time PennzPlat was the ONLY mass market oil which could beat the Honda HTO-06 turbo spec, and they had an oil on the shelf with an incredible 4.xx volatility rating!

 

[M-Sport fan]

I do want to make sure that you understand, the overfill was in reference to a non-Fiesta, non-turbo. Basically it ran the same whether it was 5qt or 4qt in there. The PCV tube is on the front of the engine so if you made a hard stop, may get a little oil in the PCV; but the PCV in this wasn't a service item. Interesetingly, it is gravity-operated part; no spring; never have to replace.

GM was telling LSx engined f body and y-body owners, sometimes right in the glove box manual to overfill their sumps by up to a quart IF they were going to be doing hard road course/open track work with their cars, to stave off oil starvation.

Of course it is better if one installs an Accusump, or better yet, a complete multi-stage dry sump system, but in lieu of those, the overfill is the next best thing.

 

[Capri to ST]

Yes, the enhanced detergent/dispersant add packs of the EP labelled Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge lines help resist both the fuel dilution inherent in DI engines, and the acids formed from both that dilution, any combustion blow-by, and any moisture which gets into the sump from cold ambient temps, and/or short trips.
It is NOT that much more than those companies' non-EP oils (at least at Wal Mart), so even for 5K mile OCIs, it IS worth it!!

Thanks, that's good to know, because one of my main goals in choosing an oil is to mitigate the effects of a DI engine.

 

[M-Sport fan]

There are no top tier oils specified for our car that are bad, all are excellent......but some are slightly better than others. And more opinions than oils!

^^^Pretty much THIS!!

Unless you are road coursing your FiST for hours at a time (especially in the heat), at which point you BETTER have a great oil cooler installed on it anyway, the above is the case.

 

[TrickSTer]

I wouldn't expect to "see any difference in driving performance between Pennzoil Platinum vs Mobil 1 vs Napa Syn vs etc".

I'm talking about threads like:

http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/4188-Oil-information-NOACK-and-SAPS

that discussed the benefits/detriments of various elements of different oils, especially with regards to the unique requirements of GDI engines.

Threads like that allow you to make informed decisions on selections instead of just shouting out favourite brands.

 

[JRifold]

You're welcome. You probably know this, but just in case you don't you can buy 5-quart jugs of Mobil 1 and other full synthetics quite cheaply at Wal-Mart, usually $25 or so.

Hey Capri,

As you know, the FiST takes a synthetic blend oil. It's OK to run with full synthetic?

- JR

 

[Intuit]

Full Synth is considered to be more durable than blend and mineral. The reason they blend synthetic with mineral, is to reduce cost.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Full Synth is considered to be more durable than blend and mineral. The reason they blend synthetic with mineral, is to reduce cost.

+1!

Although there are some really good blends, and even full mineral based oils out there, I personally will ALWAYS choose a full synthetic (hopefully one with at least some group 4/5 in it's base stock) over these oils, even given the price difference.

This IS a high strung, 'power dense', DI turbo, power plant after all.

 

[Capri to ST]

+2, I also believe full synthetic is always better. The FiST does come from the factory with the blend, but if you look in the ST manual, they spec either synthetic blend or full synthetic.

 

[jmrtsus]

+2, I also believe full synthetic is always better. The FiST does come from the factory with the blend, but if you look in the ST manual, they spec either synthetic blend or full synthetic.

I think Ford believes some Dino is important for break in as do many others. After break in I used the full Synthetic Motorcraft for the first oil change.

 

[Capri to ST]

I think Ford believes some Dino is important for break in as do many others. After break in I used the full Synthetic Motorcraft for the first oil change.

I agree, I did a break-in oil change at 1000 miles with the Motorcraft synthetic blend, and will switch to full synthetic at my next oil change.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I think Ford believes some Dino is important for break in as do many others. After break in I used the full Synthetic Motorcraft for the first oil change.

Yes, but there seems to be MUCH disagreement on the mileage length/period of keeping said mineral based oil in the sump for break-in.

 

[jmrtsus]

Yes, but there seems to be MUCH disagreement on the mileage length/period of keeping said mineral based oil in the sump for break-in.

I changed at 1500 to the MC syn blend then to the Kendall GT-1 (MC full syn) at 4K miles. Every 4-5K gets new stuff.

 

[M-Sport fan]

I guess I took to heart everyone saying over and over again that the rings are seated BEFORE it even leaves the factory, so I dumped the factory fill blend @ 1100 miles, put in Castrol Edge EP then, and changed again @ 3100 miles to the 5W-20 Motul Specific 948C which is in the sump now for at least 3500 more miles.

 

[Quisp]

Lot's of vehicles roll out on synthetic factory fill.

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why...car-manufacturers-recommend-mobil-1-motor-oil

 

[M-Sport fan]

Lot's of vehicles roll out on synthetic factory fill.

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/why...car-manufacturers-recommend-mobil-1-motor-oil

Yes, true!

Synthetics, even the high priced, 'boutique' REAL FULL group 4/5 base stock ones, are not all that much more 'slippery' than the mineral based oils, as far as base stocks go, and it is not necessarily their base stocks which would prevent break-in, ring seating, etc., but it's their higher ppm content, and MUCH stronger anti-friction/anti-wear ADDITIVE packs which could inhibit the 'break-in' process somewhat.

The highly refined group 3/'Visom'/GTL base stocks of the 'on the shelf' "synthetics" most use are even closer yet to the group 2/3 mineral base stocks, AND have MUCH reduced add packs in them to meet all of the API/EPA/auto manufacturers/etc. standards, as compared to the premium 'boutique' oils, so they are much less likely to hurt/prevent break-in than the higher cost products.