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Upgrade advice for 2014 FiST EDIT: Loving my new mods

shouldbeasy

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#41
Do you think I would need to do all this for 225/45/15s? Yours are 25" tall, on the 15s they are only 23" which is actually a little smaller than stock tires at 23.5."

My main worry was the width going from 8.1" wide to 8.9" wide.
You should be fine width wise - just get wheels with appropriate offset to push the tire out enough from the inboard rear shock (that’s where my winter tire set up rubs and it’s on stock wheels)
 


OP
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Thread Starter #42
Getting close to being done with my build. CEL defouler, Radium oil catch can kit, stubby (2") antenna, and Turbosmart boost gauge with vent pod are all on their way.

Next spring I'm installing a limited slip differential and new summer rubber. Still haven't decided if I want to play it safe with 215/45/16s or risk rubbing in hard turns with 225/45/15s. With the O.Z. Ultraleggera wheels, if they don't fit I'll be out $1800.00.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #43
You should be fine width wise - just get wheels with appropriate offset to push the tire out enough from the inboard rear shock (that’s where my winter tire set up rubs and it’s on stock wheels)
The wheels I want are 42mm offset. 15x7.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #44
Sweet, my local Ford dealership gave me a quote of $900 for the LSD install. The other two quotes I got were $1900 and $1500.

What I have left:

-MFactory LSD
-O.Z. Ultraleggera 15x7
-Toyo Proxes R1R 225/45/15 tires
-Bilstein B8 shocks all around
-Oil catch can kit
-LED headlight "bulbs"
-D-Spec tail light assemblies
-LED rings in fog lights

I think that'll just about do 'er.

I might also go with Koni Sport Yellow shocks instead of the Bilsteins, I just don't know if they're really worth $180 extra for all four.

Also maybe one day I'll get the more aggressive final drive gear to improve acceleration.
 


CSM

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#45
You should really consider doing axles and the clutch at the same time as LSD. since you're a 2014 i'm assuming you've got some miles on it. Nice to replace those items as they wear over time. Fresh ones for the turbo would be good. ~300whp the OEM clutch is fine
 


M-Sport fan

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#46
You should really consider doing axles and the clutch at the same time as LSD. since you're a 2014 i'm assuming you've got some miles on it. Nice to replace those items as they wear over time. Fresh ones for the turbo would be good. ~300whp the OEM clutch is fine
Also, IF you are serious about the quicker final drive ring and pinion, the LSD install is the time to do those as well, to save labor costs, and not have to open everything up again in the future. [wink]
 


OP
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Thread Starter #48
You should really consider doing axles and the clutch at the same time as LSD. since you're a 2014 i'm assuming you've got some miles on it. Nice to replace those items as they wear over time. Fresh ones for the turbo would be good. ~300whp the OEM clutch is fine
I already have the Spec stage 3+ clutch and aluminum flywheel, but yeah, I'll definitely do the LSD and final drive gear at the same time.

What do you mean axles? I've replaced the passenger side CV axle about 500 miles ago due to breaking the PSMM bolt off. I've since replaced the bolt with Whoosh.

FYI, I'm right at 50k miles.
 


CSM

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#49
I already have the Spec stage 3+ clutch and aluminum flywheel, but yeah, I'll definitely do the LSD and final drive gear at the same time.

What do you mean axles? I've replaced the passenger side CV axle about 500 miles ago due to breaking the PSMM bolt off. I've since replaced the bolt with Whoosh.

FYI, I'm right at 50k miles.
Yeah that's what I was referring to - the CV axles. Almost all of the seals on the 2014s leaked trans fluid (at least mine did), plus you have to pull axles anyways to do diff install . I replaced both sides of mine when I had the diff installed and it helped.... really reduced a lot of the drivetrain noise. We think one of the CV joints was on the way out.
 


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Thread Starter #50
Really wish I could try the car with the LSD and wider tires for a while before deciding whether to go with the shorter final drive. I know without the LSD and wider rubber it's really traction limited with my s280, but if it still is after I throw those on there, going with more aggressive gearing would be pretty pointless.

Honestly, I probably won't put the gears in there.
 


M-Sport fan

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#51
Given the weight transfer OFF OF the driven wheels on acceleration we must deal with, and the limited traction anyway due to having to use relatively narrow tread width tires, no matter how 'sticky', yeah, I would also avoid the crazy gearing as well. [thumb]

Unless I had definite plans to do a SUPER insanely 'laggy' huge, NO 'BOTTOM END' TORQUE AT ALL before 5K+ revs are on the clock, turbo in the future. [wink]
 


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#52
Really wish I could try the car with the LSD and wider tires for a while before deciding whether to go with the shorter final drive. I know without the LSD and wider rubber it's really traction limited with my s280, but if it still is after I throw those on there, going with more aggressive gearing would be pretty pointless.

Honestly, I probably won't put the gears in there.
Do you ever do track days locally? There is Track Night in America, MassTuning, and SCDA. I do events with all 3. Would love to do a track day with a fellow ST owner!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #53
Do you ever do track days locally? There is Track Night in America, MassTuning, and SCDA. I do events with all 3. Would love to do a track day with a fellow ST owner!
I never have but I'd be down to go in the Spring once I can put summer rubber back on.
 


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Thread Starter #55
I installed the catted downpipe from Whoosh, and it caused a check engine light for p0420, which is catalytic efficiency. I then bought the CEL defouler from Whoosh, and had it installed last week. The CEL didn't come back on after it was cleared during the defouler installation, but then it came back on over the weekend.

Any idea what might be going on? Did they not install it correctly? They didn't use all the parts that came with the defouler, there are two small open ended cylinders/sleeves/spacers left over.
 


shouldbeasy

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#56
I installed the catted downpipe from Whoosh, and it caused a check engine light for p0420, which is catalytic efficiency. I then bought the CEL defouler from Whoosh, and had it installed last week. The CEL didn't come back on after it was cleared during the defouler installation, but then it came back on over the weekend.

Any idea what might be going on? Did they not install it correctly? They didn't use all the parts that came with the defouler, there are two small open ended cylinders/sleeves/spacers left over.
You can try spacing the defouler out further but in reality, best solution is to have your tuner stop the code from occurring as I believe they can do it. I don’t have a cat on my car and, with a defouler, never get codes for that system.i

Just noticed you’re with Tune+ - mention this to Adam and he should be able to sort it out for ya.
 


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#58
Just registered. Looking forward to it.
Awesome, excited to see you there. My Fiesta is blue with a black hood and missing grill. You can't miss it. I'll be there with a few friends - NC Miata, BMW 2 Series, and possibly Camaro SS. Come introduce yourself if I don't see you first!
 


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