I have the rear seat and Spare tire bits on my list as around 100 lbs 40 for the spare and 60 for the rear seat. the rear seat back are super heavy where as the bottom is but a 10 lb bit of fluff though you need to unpin and remove the bottom to get to the torx screws that hold the rear brackets in place.. But this was done on my super friendly bathroom scale . well not so friendly to me but you get the idea..
-
Sign Up! To view all forums and unlock additional cool features
Welcome to the #1 Fiesta ST Forum and Fiesta ST community dedicated to Fiesta ST owners and enthusiasts. Register for an account, it's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the Fiesta ST Forum today!
Weight Reduction
- Thread starter Capitalistix
- Start date
Chili fries go with hot wings 
Personally I wouldn't remove the back seats because it's a 4 door but removing the tire and jack in the trunk is what I did on my FiST. Another easy weight mod if to go with an aftermarket exhaust which depending on the exhaust you could probably lose another 10-11 lbs. Then like others said, get some lighter wheels, but not too light unless you like to bend them. PCA sells some sweet wheels for the FiST and give forum discounts. If you're daily driving this guy 85~ish lbs weight loss is pretty good
Personally I wouldn't remove the back seats because it's a 4 door but removing the tire and jack in the trunk is what I did on my FiST. Another easy weight mod if to go with an aftermarket exhaust which depending on the exhaust you could probably lose another 10-11 lbs. Then like others said, get some lighter wheels, but not too light unless you like to bend them. PCA sells some sweet wheels for the FiST and give forum discounts. If you're daily driving this guy 85~ish lbs weight loss is pretty good
The only time the front seat comes out is once at the track. i would take it out and weigh it before but i always have my pit crew ride with me and i dont wanna do that much work im lazy and paranoid of a airbag having a freak moment and blowing my face off. Maybe next time i go out on the slicks i will weigh it first because im sure people will want to know all the details from my next track session![[raceflag]](/images/smilies/icon_smile_race.gif "Race Flag [raceflag]")
Dealing with air bags, disconnect battery, wait 2 minutes, disconnect bag, good to go.
Putting it back in, disconnect battery, wait 2 minutes, connect bag, connect battery.
I have done this dozens of times on many vehicles.
-------------
Front seat weigh was posted in the past, it may of been 2J-R.
I was considering fixed back seats to save some weight but when I added up the true install weight with sliders, lumbar bags and heater install in the seats, it was not a great deal of savings so stayed with the stock Recaro seats, which I love
Putting it back in, disconnect battery, wait 2 minutes, connect bag, connect battery.
I have done this dozens of times on many vehicles.
-------------
Front seat weigh was posted in the past, it may of been 2J-R.
I was considering fixed back seats to save some weight but when I added up the true install weight with sliders, lumbar bags and heater install in the seats, it was not a great deal of savings so stayed with the stock Recaro seats, which I love
Whoop, whoop. Wasn't really tracking the build of my FiST, but it was completed on April 10th and is now being shipping to Baltimore by rail. As I know I'll at least have the rear seat out (and carpet) first to facilitate removal of the sound deadening crap, I may go FR and pull the front seats too. I do anticipate battery relocation and have to determine the cable route for the positive side. I'm pretty sure that I'm not breaking new ground here with the battery, but am curious to know if running only the positive cable to the engine bay will wreak havoc on anything.
I think the front seats are closer to 50lbs, it has been posted but I do not recall where.
Battery relocation is easy on this car, I did it right away, nice spot right on the firewall, down the drivers side under the door sill trim, I used 4 gauge, working just fine.
Just ground the battery well in the back, no need for a second cable, BMW has done that for years, my first rear battery mod was done on a 510 in the early 70's, no issues in the least and I had a big battery and massive lighting in the winter.
-----------------------
Careful on the rear bumper support, it may be structural and taking to much weight out of the back could end up unbalancing the car to much, I found I had to keep adding fuel as the car was a bit loose when last moment breaking at 130MPH on race tires.
Battery relocation is easy on this car, I did it right away, nice spot right on the firewall, down the drivers side under the door sill trim, I used 4 gauge, working just fine.
Just ground the battery well in the back, no need for a second cable, BMW has done that for years, my first rear battery mod was done on a 510 in the early 70's, no issues in the least and I had a big battery and massive lighting in the winter.
-----------------------
Careful on the rear bumper support, it may be structural and taking to much weight out of the back could end up unbalancing the car to much, I found I had to keep adding fuel as the car was a bit loose when last moment breaking at 130MPH on race tires.
Thanks! As your reply came in, I was just looking closely at engine bay photos and wondering if anyone has engineered a better solution to the long-ass intake path. I was thinking that once the battery was gone (to the rear - thanks for the tips) what is stopping someone from creating a better flowing, shorter intake path. The weather is pretty here today in Italy - how's it there in Utah?
You are most welcome
Did you see the intake I made, grill mounted, tweaked NACA duct, etc?
There is the 2J-R cowl intake if you can live with the noise and make sure it does not get to much water in it during adverse weather.
I considered making my own, actually fitted the parts and decided to take a different approach.
With my setup during cold weather data log tuning runs with the Cyborg turbo I was getting so much air in it was blowing out the spark at 6k RPM so it seems to not be much of a restriction. I was going to move the inlet hose to behind the radiator but left for the rest of the winter and when returned pulled the turbo, etc, and shipped them off and hired DHM to build us an EFR system so waiting on the parts for it now.
-------------------------
Low 60s and clear sky.
I live in a very pretty mountain valley, Morgan County, snow capped mountain view out of every window and the shop as well
Selling soon to go full time RVing with the Fist street/track car in the back of the trailer, finally!
Did you see the intake I made, grill mounted, tweaked NACA duct, etc?
There is the 2J-R cowl intake if you can live with the noise and make sure it does not get to much water in it during adverse weather.
I considered making my own, actually fitted the parts and decided to take a different approach.
With my setup during cold weather data log tuning runs with the Cyborg turbo I was getting so much air in it was blowing out the spark at 6k RPM so it seems to not be much of a restriction. I was going to move the inlet hose to behind the radiator but left for the rest of the winter and when returned pulled the turbo, etc, and shipped them off and hired DHM to build us an EFR system so waiting on the parts for it now.
-------------------------
Low 60s and clear sky.
I live in a very pretty mountain valley, Morgan County, snow capped mountain view out of every window and the shop as well
Selling soon to go full time RVing with the Fist street/track car in the back of the trailer, finally!
Similar threads
-
-
-
-
-
-
What weight of weighted shift knob.- Started by Black Fists Matter
- Replies: 3
-
Weight reduction for autocross question- Started by Pablo Pistoffo
- Replies: 24
-
Practical Weight Reduction Ideas for Daily Driver
- Started by Drew J
- Replies: 137
-
-
Ford Community Posts
-
Pierce rear torsion beam for Autox?- Latest: tri-pedaler
-
-
-
