What was your upgrade path?

[XR650R]

My mods are listed below. The RMM makes a huge difference in shifting feel. With the shift kit, it's really nice.

 

[Crystals]

I kept the car stock for about 8 months after I bought it in Feb 2018 before I fell into the black hole.

I started with Cobb’s stage 1 kit, then a few months later swapped the tires for Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 summer tires, and the wheels for OZ Ultraleggeras. That alone was a big enough difference to keep me happy for a long while.

A few months later, I added Cobb’s intercooler and their Stage 2 OTS tune, plus Flowmaster’s American Thunder exhaust.

In the past two months, I changed the spark plugs to Denso ITV22s, and changed the tune from Cobb to Dizzy Tuning’s stage 2 tune, which not only woke the car up, but with no rev hang this car is so much easier to drive, especially shifting from 1st to 2nd gear.

I was planning on exterior mods like splitters and such, even getting the Ultraleggeras in black, but instead I’m getting window tint and another set of Firehawks, but in 205/45R17 this time. I looked at getting 16-inch wheels and 205/50/R16s but I don’t want to spend the $2k right now.

 

[SerialBrain2]

so far ...cp-e rmm, passenger motor mount arp bolt upgrade, on stock radiator I put 1 inch tall foam (home depot) across the top and bottom to seal the fan shroud no overheating ever in Florida heat, ITG drop in af, Mountune IC (wanted a tube and fin so the radiator could still get air even though bar and plate works a little better it works much worse for my application...daily driven never raced, and spotty spirited driving), whiteline lug nuts (since the acorn cap on stock swells up after time and I dont want to purchase a 19.5mm socket), and symposer delete (the dand thing I had to drop the entire cold side pipe to remove the symposer but I used a $4 expansion rubber plug 1"-1 and 1/8", rally armor mud flaps and weather tech floor mats, cover craft car cover (preserve paint).
Next up is Cobb AP with a dizzy stage 2 and ruthenium spark plugs stage 1 colder.

 

[our guile]

So far just wheels and tires (Bronze dekagrams with 205/50 Indy 500s). Next will be an AP + tune and a Woosh V1 or Depo racing intercooler, then a radiator (Mountune probably).

 

[SerialBrain2]

my radiator mod may save you $500 and 4 hours worth of work.

 

[CarGuy]

my radiator mod may save you $500 and 4 hours worth of work.

I'm curious what mod this is. More information please.

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[SPhilli911]

My path was to get a good look, feel and sound from the car. I don't care so much about speed or power, more about how the car handles and feels. I'm at a point where I do not want to do anything more, it's fine as is.

Mods in order of when I installed them:
Rally Armor mudflaps
Team Dynamics Pro-race 3 wheels (replaced)
Cobb Intake (later replaced with updated version of Cobb intake)
Boomba Racing wing risers
Cobb catback exhaust
FSwerks short shift kit
OZ Racing Superturismo WRC wheels
Cobb shift knob
Cobb RMM
Cobb Accessport
Velossa Tech rear diffuser fins
Bilstein B8 Dampers (pending install)
Mountune Sport Springs (pending install)

 

[McSwine]

In no particular order (all done in the first couple of thousand miles):

fswerks shift kit
resonator delete
Ravenol MTF-2 tranny fluid change
Dizzy and Strat 93 octane tunes for the AP I already had from my 2015
Husky floormats
Kenwood KSC-SW11 sub (mounted under passenger seat)

 

[SerialBrain2]

The stock FiST radiator has 1 fan in the radiator shroud. Additionally, the shroud is sealed to the radiator along the sides, however along the entire top and bottom there is a 1 inch gap.
My last car was a sentra spec v which I put a T3/T4 turbo on. Even after upgrading the radiator to a high performance all aluminum with a Mishimoto slim shroud with 2 high performance spal fans and low temp thermostats it would continually overheat when running the AC standing in traffic. This was a top mounted turbo mind you, and you could boil water off the hood of my Sentra. Anyway, I fixed the overheating by sealing the entire fan shroud to the radiator with window/ door foam sealing tape from Home Depot. So I know from real world experience that enclosing the shroud to the radiator increases the air flow through the cooling fins thereby increasing cooling efficiency.
Yesterday I was at the beach and the temp gauge in the FiST read 101 degrees...at idle I ran the AC full tilt for 20 minutes while we loaded up the car and the kids got changed...never over heated once. The way I did it, because the glue on the foam trim is not designed to withstand the heat, I used some left over black RTV and applied a thin line along the top and bottom of the radiator then I laid the foam...then let it sit 4 hours minimum, pref over night. Might not need the $500 radiator and the hours of labor involved...just sayin

 

[KenST]

In no particular order (all done in the first couple of thousand miles):

fswerks shift kit
resonator delete
Ravenol MTF-2 tranny fluid change
Dizzy and Strat 93 octane tunes for the AP I already had from my 2015
Husky floormats
Kenwood KSC-SW11 sub (mounted under passenger seat)

How is that sub if you don’t mind me asking?


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[M-Sport fan]

on stock radiator I put 1 inch tall foam (home depot) across the top and bottom to seal the fan shroud no overheating ever in Florida heat

Is this some kind of high heat capable foam, or just the usual/regular old Frost King, or the like insulation foam??

I used some of the silver foil tape to close the gap the warped/distorted factory fan shroud has developed along the bottom, where it can get to it, for now.

I will replace the factory shroud with a new one when I get a Mountune, or Pro Alloy aftermarket radiator.

 

[SerialBrain2]

regular foam from home depot

 

[SerialBrain2]

Here the foam running the legnth of the radiator top, same as the bottom, and you can see the plug for the symposer delete

 

[CarGuy]

Here the foam running the legnth of the radiator top, same as the bottom, and you can see the plug for the symposer delete

Did you loosen the shroud first of just jam it in there? To what extent did you disassemble to get it in there? Lastly if you just jammed it in there, how was access to the bottom of the shroud area while still in the car? Jack stands or lift?

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[SerialBrain2]

I just jammed it in there with a flat head screw driver used fingers to adjust it flush. Used jacks to get underneathe...same method.

 

[McSwine]

How is that sub if you don’t mind me asking?


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Well, it does a good job for what it is. It fills in the lower end far better than the stock setup, but it's definitely not going to blow you away with a massive thump.