Wilwood Brake Problem update perhaps solved

[antarctica24]

Ok, so it has been a while so for a small reminder, I had purchased the Wilwood brake kit with slotted and drilled rotors, and then BP20 pads. Rotors warped in 30 days or 6000 miles. Yes that is right, car now has 145,000 miles on it. Not a misprint.

I threw the slotted drilled POS's in the garbage and bought the solid rotors from 2 J Racing.

Same problem

here is the update,

Wilwood makes an heave duty slotted rotor. That with a step down to the BP10, solved all of the warping problems. There were some people here saying the BP10 would not stop the car. I am not sure where they got that idea. This combo the car stops every bit as hard as it did before, just the rotors are not warping.

 

[Chuckable]

Glad to hear that you got the issue resolved. I have the Wilwood BBK with non-slotted, non-drilled rotors with Carbotech 1521 pads for the street. After several thousand miles still no problems - knock on wood.

 

[westcoaST]

I have the plain rotors with polymatrix pads. No warping problems. Did you center the calipers with the washers that came with the kit? Then bed the brakes according to the instructions? Either of these two procedures not being followed can cause the rotors to warp. I've put on 10,200 miles since my Wilwood instal without any problems.

 

[JPGC]

No problems here with my Wilwood kit either. I do run BP10s for daily duty. Like westcoaST said above.... Did you do those things?

 

[Joszer]

Ok, so it has been a while so for a small reminder, I had purchased the Wilwood brake kit with slotted and drilled rotors, and then BP20 pads. Rotors warped in 30 days or 6000 miles. Yes that is right, car now has 145,000 miles on it. Not a misprint.

I threw the slotted drilled POS's in the garbage and bought the solid rotors from 2 J Racing.

Same problem

here is the update,

Wilwood makes an heave duty slotted rotor. That with a step down to the BP10, solved all of the warping problems. There were some people here saying the BP10 would not stop the car. I am not sure where they got that idea. This combo the car stops every bit as hard as it did before, just the rotors are not warping.

I have the plain rotors with polymatrix pads. No warping problems. Did you center the calipers with the washers that came with the kit? Then bed the brakes according to the instructions? Either of these two procedures not being followed can cause the rotors to warp. I've put on 10,200 miles since my Wilwood instal without any problems.

I would check your shims on the install. There should be a shim on the inside of the caliper between the bracket to make sure it is perfectly centered. I've had my kit for 15,000 miles and have zero issues. I've used all the rotors they offer and I prefer the cheap-o Ultralight rotors and they work great. And what everyone else says, the BP10's work great for the street. I recommend those.

 

[westcoaST]

Wrong area to post my response.

 

[carramrod]

You're actually warping the metal on the rotor?

Or are you leaving pad deposits on the rotor that is causing vibration? (this one is MUCH MUCH more likely) If that's the case, you need to follow proper break-in instructions and make sure the kit is installed correctly.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Hardly any rotors ever warp.

It is most always a pulsing feeling on the pedal caused by pad deposits caused by using the brakes hard then sitting stopped with your foot on the pedal causing transfer of pad material to the rotor causing a thicker area on that part of the rotor.

Usually some hard back to back braking will clean it off but it not then some brake cleaner and steel wool should work.

In decades of modding cars and using the brakes hard I have never warped a rotor even on a full out race car and only had one set of rotors turned before I knew better.

Severe heat checking or worse cracking, I have done more than enough of that, only cure is new rotors and more air flow to them.

 

[IrishST]

Ah, the "warped rotor" phrase... In all the years I works as a dealer tech I never saw a physically warped rotor. Cracked? You bet. Build up? Totally. Incorrectly mounted rotors or excessive lug torque messing with the surface? All the time.

I agree with the consensus above. Likely deposits or something not properly mounted causing runout issues, not a physical warp.