Blue track/street build - salvage restoration

[LilPartyBox]

How did i miss this? In for updates! Always something to learn from bringin a car back from the dead

 

[kevinatfms]

Awesome start and that $5k is definitely not overpaying for that car. I think you did damn good.

PS, grab FORScan and turn off the A/C codes in the BCM.

 

[TemecFist]

I like the wheels it had. If I may make a suggestion, if you plan on seriously tracking this, the Sparco Chrono may be a bit underwhelming for a full track car. Just my opinions tho. Good luck, its looking good.

 

[Jabbit]

Took it for a drive today. Lost boost at the top of 4th after a "pop" - hoping it's just an intercooler hose. Have to track that down. Need to replace the rear rotors and pads, jump out the hood sensor, adjust hood latch so it closes, disable TPMS via ForScan. Inspection in 2 weeks.

 

[LionsTooth]

View attachment 38559

I love the Frankenstein stitches on the front bumper!

 

[M-Sport fan]

I like the wheels it had.

Same here, but we know that the RPF1s are a MUCH better track wheel.

 

[Jabbit]

I love the Frankenstein stitches on the front bumper!

Thanks! It's to hold me over until a find a replacement bumper. They are pricey!

 

[Jabbit]

Same here, but we know that the RPF1s are a MUCH better track wheel.

If they were in good shape I would use them on the street but they are awful. Also I'm a JDM fanboy so I love the rpf1s.

 

[Dpro]

Awesome start and that $5k is definitely not overpaying for that car. I think you did damn good.

PS, grab FORScan and turn off the A/C codes in the BCM.

Ya I would not mind a 5k rebuildable FiST especially in Performance Blue. lol I would turn into a Rally FiST.

 

[Jabbit]

Ya I would not mind a 5k rebuildable FiST especially in Performance Blue. lol I would turn into a Rally FiST.

I could have done it cheaper for sure but I feel that it's still been affordable. Going to post a whole price list one of these days on what it took to rebuild.

 

[Jabbit]

Ok so good news is I found the boost leak. It's by the reducer that leads into the throttle body. Bad news is I can't seem to get it to line up right and truly cinch down. Whoosh boost pipe with silicone couple and tbolt clamps. Thinking of trying worm clamps to see if that works. Will a tbolt clamp crush a boost pipe if I keep cranking it down? Maybe I'm being wimpy and should keep cranking? Any ideas?

Removed and replaced rear pass. side rotor and pads. They were absolutely glued on.

 

[Jabbit]

Rear brakes are done. Has to rebuild the brackets. Drove about 15 miles today and all my clamps held on. I just got the orange wrench light and I can't get it to turn off for the life of me. Any idea? Is that strictly for oil change intervals or can it be anything else?

 

[XR650R]

Rear brakes are done. Has to rebuild the brackets. Drove about 15 miles today and all my clamps held on. I just got the orange wrench light and I can't get it to turn off for the life of me. Any idea? Is that strictly for oil change intervals or can it be anything else?

Just oil changes.

 

[dmb]

T bolts only go down so far, worm clamp fixed it for me.

 

[Jabbit]

Just oil changes.

I must have done the pedal dance like 10 different times and a few different ways, nothing. Is there any other way to shut it off?

 

[XR650R]

I must have done the pedal dance like 10 different times and a few different ways, nothing. Is there any other way to shut it off?

This worked for this guy. I've heard that it doesn't always work for everybody, though.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWeSj1rkAgE

 

[Jabbit]

That's the one I tried. Another one I read said you can't have it in gear (which I didn't try) and another said brake/gas THEN press start. Going to try both tonight.

 

[FJ16]

The method in the video above worked for me in the past, but I had to drive it before the light went off. Strange that it didn't disappear right away, but a quick 2 minute drive then restart did the trick in my case ('16).

 

[Jabbit]

Got the wrench light to turn off, had to have the car in neutral. Only light that is on right now is the "door ajar" light. There is no actual issue that I can tell. I jumped the hood sensor and that didn't fix it. I replaced the rear passenger side door latch/actuator so I suspect that's the culprit. It latches just fine but doesn't complete the circuit? No idea. Salvage inspection tomorrow!

 

[M-Sport fan]

Salvage inspection tomorrow!

Good luck!

Is the salvage inspection a bunch more lenient/less draconian than the actual state DMV inspection, or don't you even have those in your locale?