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Clutch to Floor

OP
JAMADOR
Messages
71
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53
Location
Spring, TX
Thread Starter #21
Good to know. Will plan on doing spark plugs [already in hand], coolant & brake/clutch fluids once we get past the school schedule chaos we've got right now.
 


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194
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113
Location
Houston, TX
#22
It's probably your slave seeing you're at 100k. Mine started going bad at 98k and totally failed at 104k completely unusable. Do you hear any noises when you have the pedal pushed in? I heard a whirring noise for those few K miles before it failed. Ended up replacing mine myself so if you need any pointers hit me up!
My failed slave: YouTube
 


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194
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113
Location
Houston, TX
#23
And for bleeding I don't like getting under my car so I just remove the air box and access the bleeder from there. Suck the fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir, then fill your syringe with fresh fluid and push it through the bleeder valve, repeat 3 times. I used this it fits our valve perfect
 


OP
JAMADOR
Messages
71
Likes
53
Location
Spring, TX
Thread Starter #28
It's probably your slave seeing you're at 100k. Mine started going bad at 98k and totally failed at 104k completely unusable. Do you hear any noises when you have the pedal pushed in? I heard a whirring noise for those few K miles before it failed. Ended up replacing mine myself so if you need any pointers hit me up!
My failed slave: YouTube
Thanks, missed these earlier. Will look those up.
No noises from the clutch/TOB, and it hasn't stuck to the floor in the past 2 days [fingers crossed].

What would you rate the DIY, difficulty-wise? Does the trans need to come out, or is there room the split it & squeeze in?
 


Messages
194
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113
Location
Houston, TX
#29
Thanks, missed these earlier. Will look those up.
No noises from the clutch/TOB, and it hasn't stuck to the floor in the past 2 days [fingers crossed].

What would you rate the DIY, difficulty-wise? Does the trans need to come out, or is there room the split it & squeeze in?
The trans must come out. I'd say it's simple but hard work. Definitely doable yourself as I had no help. You'll need a transmission jack with a strap and make sure it can tilt in all directions as getting the trans back in is the hardest part.
Take a look at the shop manual here to see what the job entails. Full shop manual
http://sluggyjunx.com/auto/2014_Fiesta/Service Manual.htm

If you're looking for someone who can do the job for you at a reasonable price and who knows these cars hit up Francisco Olivares on FB. He's South East Houston but I think he might do mobile work too if you got the space
 


OP
JAMADOR
Messages
71
Likes
53
Location
Spring, TX
Thread Starter #31
The trans must come out. I'd say it's simple but hard work. Definitely doable yourself as I had no help. You'll need a transmission jack with a strap and make sure it can tilt in all directions as getting the trans back in is the hardest part.
Take a look at the shop manual here to see what the job entails. Full shop manual
http://sluggyjunx.com/auto/2014_Fiesta/Service Manual.htm

If you're looking for someone who can do the job for you at a reasonable price and who knows these cars hit up Francisco Olivares on FB. He's South East Houston but I think he might do mobile work too if you got the space
Thanks again, posting on mobile but will look at the FSM tomorrow at work.
Trans put top or bottom? No access to a lift nor a high lift jack.
Last FWD trans I was involved in pulling was an Escort in college. We never got it to mate back up properly, lol. No idea what happened to that car.
 


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Location
Houston, TX
#32
Trans is dropped out the bottom. It was really difficult to align the transmission but with a transmission jack that allows tilt and rotation with straps it's definitely doable by yourself. I used this one from harbor freight. All you gotta do is align the dowel pins and bolt holes. Takes time and patience adjusting several times with the jack and eventually getting it in. I'd highly recommend getting some nice ratchet straps to hold the transmission on the jack as the 4 pegs don't do a good job and get in the way

The lift definitely helped me out a ton but I had to drop the car to the floor to use the transmission jack anyway. it honestly would've been doable from underneath if you had the patience.
 


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Location
Houston, TX
#33
Removing the transmission was very easy. I brought the lift down to ground level and removed the last remaining bolts holding the transmission. Laying on my back I brought my knees up to support the transmission while pulling it away from the engine. Brought it down to my chest and rolled it off to the side. Installation took a few hours as I first tried without a jack. Once I got the jack it took me 15 minutes of fiddling
 


OP
JAMADOR
Messages
71
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53
Location
Spring, TX
Thread Starter #34
Cautiously optimistic about that. Will definitely have to try to wait for cooler temps & a free weekend. Still the tail of Houston summer, as you know. 90s in the afternoon, rather not be soaked by the time I'm done.
 


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Location
Houston, TX
#35
Cautiously optimistic about that. Will definitely have to try to wait for cooler temps & a free weekend. Still the tail of Houston summer, as you know. 90s in the afternoon, rather not be soaked by the time I'm done.
It took me 2 full days to complete as I work very slow and it was my first time doing something this involved. And yes I was soaked by the end of each day!
 


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Location
Kelso
#36
Here's what I've found out about the cause of the the sticking pedal.

The slave is a concentric style. It has a plastic sleeve that, when the clutch gets hot, melts around the shaft. That's what's sticking. You can free it up for the first couple of times but it gets worse and worse as it melts further, eventually so much so that it's out of round.

Ergo, riding the clutch causes excesses heat to transfer and is one of the roots of the problem.

That said, I don't ride the clutch, but I used to sit at the light "ready to go" when the light changed to "surprise" people off the line. I've had to replace it twice (not counting the bad one from the factory) but I've since learned not to do that.
 


Messages
194
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113
Location
Houston, TX
#37
Something you might be interested in trying... When I first had my pedal sink to the floor at 97k miles the car was undrivable and I heard a whirring noise while the pedal was pushed in. I ended up removing the spring that's on my clutch pedal which allowed the weak slave to function fine until 106k miles. Even with my new slave I have left the spring out of the pedal assembly as it makes for a smoother feel with a much better sense of the bite point, although it is heavier and had slack at the top of the travel. I added a door spring and zip ties to take up the slack and I love the way it feels now.

I also attached a pic of what my leaking slave looked like
 


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