(Possibly) Blew a head gasket looking for suggestions

[MattM]

Very exciting following this build as I’ve been following SP63 on Facebook and their builds look great for the RS. I hope yours turns out well. Is the price paid for a full turn key long block, or do you have to transfer over accessories and everything else?

 

[arlisscm]

Very exciting following this build as I’ve been following SP63 on Facebook and their builds look great for the RS. I hope yours turns out well. Is the price paid for a full turn key long block, or do you have to transfer over accessories and everything else?

I hope it turns out well also (for obvious reasons).

I'll have to transfer over the accessories (alternator, HPFP, Injectors, manifolds, etc.), but I plan to just do a side by side transfer with them both on the bench. (also got all new manifold gaskets, hardware, etc.)

If this all goes well, I'll probably have them give me a quote for rebuilding my stock engine with the same specs/mods to have as a spare. Already have a spare transmission to have Clarke build, so its likely I could end up with a spare built engine and transmission, so I'd probably just get a clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and slave cylinder slap them together and have a spare unit to just hot swap if/when I need to. But that's all just prospective at this point.

 

[MattM]

Keep us posted as you have been doing. They’re also only like 6 hours from me so it’s nice to have options within driving distance

 

[M-Sport fan]

One of the very few (if not only?) shops/vendors dealing with our rides which is only about an hour or so from me, but except for the timing belt/water pump/etc. maintenance work, or a factory engine or turbo swap (if ever needed) I most likely will never be able to take advantage of their nuke proof long block expertise.

 

[arlisscm]

Engine is done (or will be done) and shipping out this week. Unfortunately, I'm not able to head down to pick it up, but maybe if/when I have them give my stock engine the same treatment I can make the trip down to drop it off or pick it up.

Between the weather and the garage being occupied at the moment, it will likely be a few weeks before I get stuck into the swap, but I'll be sure to update as I go. View attachment IMG_1579.jpeg

 

[MattM]

I’ve seen them posting on FB about it and was wondering if it was yours. Very exciting. Did you get any head work done or is it just an OEM head? The block looks beautiful and it looks like the sleeves fully address the slots at the top of the block

 

[arlisscm]

I’ve seen them posting on FB about it and was wondering if it was yours. Very exciting. Did you get any head work done or is it just an OEM head? The block looks beautiful and it looks like the sleeves fully address the slots at the top of the block

Stock head other than having it o-ringed. I haven't seen any of those posts as I don't do social media. So you probably have seen more updates/pictures than I have.

 

[MattM]

She’s pretty man! I hope for your sake and for the community that all goes well for you. Who’s doing the tuning for it?

 

[arlisscm]

Jason has been my guy for a few years now, but because I need good weather (damn you Upstate) to get the miles to break the engine in and the first track day is in May, I'm looking at having it dyno tuned (semi) locally at Circuit Demon, they are ~30 minutes away. It usually takes a few weeks for an e-tune, so I'm likely going to be short on time, so a 1 and done on the dyno seems to be the play.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Jason has been my guy for a few years now, but because I need good weather (damn you Upstate) to get the miles to break the engine in and the first track day is in May, I'm looking at having it dyno tuned (semi) locally at Circuit Demon, they are ~30 minutes away. It usually takes a few weeks for an e-tune, so I'm likely going to be short on time, so a 1 and done on the dyno seems to be the play.

Did they offer an option to have the crank snout keyed at all?

If so, was that done on this short block?

 

[arlisscm]

Did they offer an option to have the crank snout keyed at all?

If so, was that done on this short block?

I believe keyed crank was a $350 option, and yes, I had it done. Figured might as well.

Edit: went back through the email chain, confirmed keyed crank was $350.

 

[Grsemky]

I believe keyed crank was a $350 option, and yes, I had it done. Figured might as well.

Smart

 

[arlisscm]

Apparently SP63 is right on one of the carriers main routes, so it shipped yesterday and is scheduled to be delivered today. Won't have the space to do anything with it yet other than unwrap it and stare at it for a few weeks. Shipping was $280, I was expecting more, so not too shabby.

 

[arlisscm]

Engine was delivered, requested a lift gate truck as the skid steer is currently down so I didn't have anything with forks to grab it off the truck. Turns out the lift gate was broken so the delivery guy and I hoisted the engine and pallet off the truck (with an extra two old guys, not sure if they were holding much or just there for moral support, haha). Suspected a bit of weight as the shipping weight was listed as 380lbs. Well, after unloading it and swapping it from the pallet to a hand cart (and strapping it down) I can confirm these engines are surprisingly light. Our Google overlord says somewhere between 220-250lbs, I'm inclined to believe even slightly less.

Will get some pictures when I get the garage cleaned up a bit.

Looks like one of the VVT solenoid connectors got wacked in transit, it was on the side that was down on the pallet. They are about $60, so no sense in hassling SP63 or the shippers about it, I'll just order a new one.

Edit: had enough points with Ford to cover the solenoid, so I got it for $13 for tax and shipping.

Also wanted to add that the engine came with new intake and exhaust manifold gaskets as well as exhaust manifold studs and nuts. I already got replacements so I guess I'll have spares. Using the studs and nuts I bought as I opted for the ARPs.

 

[arlisscm]

Still a few weeks out from having the garage space to dive into the swap, but getting other stuff on order while I wait. Break-in procedure has 5 oil changes in the first 3000 miles (Break-in oil 0-150 miles, conventional 10W-40 150-300 miles, conventional 10W-40 300-500 miles, conventional 10W-40 500-1000 miles, Amsoil 10W-40 extended life full synthetic 1000-3000 miles, Amsoil 10W-40 extended life full synthetic 3000+ miles). Since I'm adding in an oil cooler, I figure I'll need ~6 quarts per change, so I have 6 quarts of break-in oil, 18 quarts of convention 10W-40 (went with Castrol since it meets the specs and was relatively inexpensive), and 24 quarts of Amsoil 10W-40 extended lift (but a bunch in bulk so I have some for oil changes later in the season).

I had it confirmed that the engine's clearances are set up for 10W-40, so that's what I'll be using moving forward.

Also have some random hardware and little stuff on the way for things I can clean up/replace much easier with the engine and transmission out.

 

[MattM]

Wow, that seems really thick. Did they set it up like that specifically at your request or is it just the tolerances they used due to it being planned as a track car primarily? I’ve never dabbled with built engines and most of the higher end oils I see don’t go past 5w so i was just curious.

 

[arlisscm]

Wow, that seems really thick. Did they set it up like that specifically at your request or is it just the tolerances they used due to it being planned as a track car primarily? I’ve never dabbled with built engines and most of the higher end oils I see don’t go past 5w so i was just curious.

It was not a request from me, and I questioned it at first when I was reviewing the break-in sheet as well. So I asked them to confirm. As far as I know, that's just what the builder set the clearances up for (likely based on experience). My best guess would be utilizing thicker oil for a stiffer oil wedge to combat higher forces from increased cylinder pressures, and also giving some more thermal overhead.