Crankshaft position sensor failling

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Jean-Lou

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TyphoonFiST said:
Find a New Tech/mechanic. A heat resistant sensor? I'm pretty sure the best way with this is an OEM sensor and they are " Heat resistant". Is it possible that your is bad? Sure anything is possible. Keep us up to date!
Click to expand...
No my sensor is brand new.

Unfortunately, in Port-au-Prince, it's difficult to find a good mechanic with the patience to deal with my problem. The one who seemed to understand my problem was more interested in repairing Jeeps and Land Cruisers than my little Fist.
 


TyphoonFiST

TyphoonFiST

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That sucks my guy....where is your sensor from? Dealership? Online? Etc. There is a way you could ohm out the Crank sensor to see id its within spec.

This straight from the old interweb* You would need a Voltmeter.


How To Test Crankshaft Position Sensor: A Step-by-Step Guide ...
A typical crankshaft position sensor should have a resistance value between 200 and 1,000 ohms, though this can vary by vehicle. You can test it by setting a multimeter to the ohms (Ω) setting, disconnecting the sensor, and measuring the resistance between its two terminals. A reading of zero ohms (a short) or an infinite reading (an open circuit) indicates the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
 


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Jean-Lou

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Hi everyone. Here's some news and a question.

I changed mechanics. I ran into a guy on the street who was a fan of the car and had a garage, so I left it with him. His conclusion is that the problem is electrical, with a signal getting lost somewhere. He tells me he's fixed the rattling problem, but now the turbo stops working when the engine warms up. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing the problem? I'll check elsewhere on the forum to see if anyone else has asked the same question.

Thanks for your support. See you soon.
 


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Jean-Lou

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Hello again, everyone.

The new mechanic recommends that I buy a new ECM. At this point, I don't think I have much choice. What do you think?

It's been over a year since it last ran. What a nightmare!
 


Intuit

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What codes came back after clearing them?
ECUs have to be programmed to the vehicle.
Ignorant of the specific details of your case and speaking in general, the computers are very rarely ever the source of any issues.
It's typically some other device attached to it, or/and a wiring harness that interferes with its function.
Strip all the fuses down to the bare essentials; only what's necessary to start and run the vehicle.
Focus on anything that doesn't look OEM or/and has been fiddled with.
 


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Intuit said:
What codes came back after clearing them?
ECUs have to be programmed to the vehicle.
Ignorant of the specific details of your case and speaking in general, the computers are very rarely ever the source of any issues.
It's typically some other device attached to it, or/and a wiring harness that interferes with its function.
Strip all the fuses down to the bare essentials; only what's necessary to start and run the vehicle.
Focus on anything that doesn't look OEM or/and has been fiddled with.
Click to expand...
Code: P0246
 


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