Almost free symposer delete ($4)

Deleted my symposer today. I can hear my engine rev, but cabin is quieter That symposer was a pain in the arse to remove. I was able to reuse the factory clamp on the lower hose. It all looks better in person.

Thanks to CanadianGuy for starting this thread.

No luck at US Home Depots. I found the plugs on Ebay here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lasco-1-1-...ug-1449-012-/381935747555?hash=item58ed2501e3

I bought AutoZone part number 02603 $4.49 USD 1 1/2” expansion plug


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Thanks, I'll use that as a backup. Did you plug the rubber hose or the actual boost pipe?

you can sit at home and save your gas
and not make your pride and joy look like a Home Depot project for $19.99 shipped
includes a new proper euro clamp too so you don't have to re-use that horrid spring clamp that wants to hurt you from the factory

raw aluminum
blue anodized
or black
$3-4 of the cost is shipping and packaging

not sure why you would want to use these types of things on a car....but it's your car
*edit - the forum discount of 5% "FIST5" takes this from $19.99 shipped to $18.99 lol

https://whoosh-motorsports.myshopify.com/collections/2014-2017-ford-fiesta-st/products/whoosh-brand-symposer-delete-kit-2014-2017-fiesta-st-free-shipping

I have been looking to get a good DIY sound symposer delete without resorting to using a bottle cap (which I did for 1 week). I have been looking for something that is some what made for the idea of a plug, survive heat and other environmental harshness. I was about to resort to using the lathe but found the following PVC plugs at the local homedepot which would be cheaper.

This is a 1 1/4" PVC barbed plug about 2" long with a shoulder stop.



http://www.homedepot.ca/product/poly-insert-plug-1-1-4-inch/982138

I could not seem to find a link on the US homedepot but I am sure they exist but they are on the US EBAY:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PVC-Insert-...hash=item5883ee6b83:m:m_P5fMYH0kOp4pzR8BYtaPQ


Because I wanted as well to plug the hose portion until I get to the firewall to cut it off I bough two. For the boost hose side it simply slipped in.
Pro tip 1: For easier insertion use a solution of water and soap, lithium or silicone grease (safe for plastics).
Pro tip 2: Remove the paper bar code sticker and give it a quick blast of WD-40 to completely remove all adhesive.

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For the hose to the firewall side the plug needs to be cut to about 3/4". No I did not use the chainsaw, the chain needs sharpening anyway after hitting a rock cleaning a stump. A metal hacksaw blade works quite well, even a dull one.
Once cut clean the burrs off and bevel the outside edge with a file or even sand paper. Now simply press it in. in snaps in place without the need for a clamp. There is really no need to do this but I want to isolate the interior of the cabin from the heat/cold that could come through.
Pro tip 3: In the future to take it out drill a 1/16 hole in the center and screw in a long screw about 1/4". Using pliers pull on the screw to pull out the plug.

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This could not be simpler and almost looks like an after market change.

Nope, expansion plug works great.

That is how I did my Symposer delete. (credit to someone else on some forum for the idea, sorry I can't remember)

I installed directly to the hard plastic pipe with a $4 Delrin expansion plug. ~3" underneath the OP install location. OP install location is excellent for expansion plug also. I wanted to remove all unnecessary weight. For the hard pipe locaiton, I had to take off ~2-4mm material from my expansion plug. Used my orbital sander (belt sander would have been easier) and ~100 grain paper.

Sand 2-4 mins, check fit, repeat. ~30 mins later, ended up slightly conical, slightly rough, extremely tight fit (almost had to hammer it in). Probably need to check if still tight after almost 2 years of operation. No leaks, just blissful enjoyment of less cabin noise. (Symposer is just too intrusive to my tastes above 1/2 throttle.)

Sorry to revive an older thread, but I didn't want to start my own for something so simple and hoping it can be answered here. Any tips on how to get that dreaded clamp off? I've tried both the top and the bottom clamp but neither lock. I'm not sure if it's because the extended clamps I am using or if my luck hates me lol. I've been stuck on it two days, mainly because it's cold where I am and I also have a cold lol. It's just been really irritating haha.

Sorry to revive an older thread, but I didn't want to start my own for something so simple and hoping it can be answered here. Any tips on how to get that dreaded clamp off? I've tried both the top and the bottom clamp but neither lock. I'm not sure if it's because the extended clamps I am using or if my luck hates me lol. I've been stuck on it two days, mainly because it's cold where I am and I also have a cold lol. It's just been really irritating haha.

I just did this yesterday. See my video for some tips. It took me about twenty minutes but I figured out a way. PM me if you want to call and I'll talk you through how I did it, it's too much to type.

Good luck you can do it.

Unfortunately my clamps refuse to lock.

I'll make a video of how I was able to get it tomorrow.

If the clamps don't lock it's still possible.

1. Get car on ramps or in the air
2. Disconnect necessary cables/hoses to get room
3. Pull hose going from symposer to engine bay (its like a big wire loom, hollow, pulls right off easily with some twisting)
4. Pull symposer out toward front of car - it's stuck tight but will pull out of the grommet/orifice
5. Like suggested above spray some silicone lubricant around there, it will seep in and help a bit
6. Now bend the entire symposer assembly to the left toward the passenger side
7. Now you have a little room to work - use some small vice grips to grab the clamp and hold it in the open position
8. Now go underneath (since you're working on the bottom clamp) and use a thin screwdriver to pry in between the pipe and the hose...keep prying all around the circumference of the hose until you see it start detaching...pry pry pry till the glue seal is broken...watch out for falling grit/debris
9. Once the seal is broken go back up and grab the symposer, pull on it like you're pulling Excalibur from the stone, pull twist and grunt until it comes out

Hope that helps. That's what I did, it took me about 20 minutes.

If you're still stuck and trying to do this tonight PM me and we can facetime/phone call and I'll show you what I'm talking about. I'm up till 10p EST.

You can do it just keep at it...it will come off.

Use your pliers to fully compress the lock ears on the clamp. Even if the clamp doesn't lock open, just hold it open with your pliers. Wiggle the clamp until it shimmies away from the joint. You may need to motivate it with a pick or small screwdriver to unseat off the rubber hose. Once you have it shimmied away from the joint you can just release the clamp and let it close on the soft rubber. Now you can motivate the rubber to come off the hard plastic. A pick or screwdriver can again be used.

OR, just do it the easy way. Cut the hose and insert your plug into the fresh end and clamp it. Should take about 90 seconds.

I just made this to help fellow travelers.

[video=youtube;3cSy2hU_4jc]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cSy2hU_4jc&feature=youtu.be[/video]