I'd like to get some advice which mods to take from almost stock.

[2stock4u]

Hello everyone and greetings from Finland. I am so happy to have 3-door model as a performance blue color Might have to upload some photos later.

Anyhow. I have ST '16 with 76 000 km (47000 miles) I've had it for 20 000 km and only smiles per gallon (or litres in my country)
Wish I really was more mechanically skilled. Sometimes I feel like Vin Diesel when I know how to check oil, screenwasher fluid and tire pressures

I have the following modifications done:

MP215 (but using a stock air filter) I have that MP215 upgrade which doesn't include mTune handset - I am 3rd owner of this vehicle
High Flow Induction Hose
RMM
Billet Quick Shift
Some cosmetic mods

Here are some plans for my car;

For the coming winter I will have to buy new tires 195/45R16.
This is a bit tricky because you don't get something like Hakkapeliitta R5 at that size and something like Wintercontact 870 might not be the best choice here in northern europe.

Basically every time I've driven 10-15min atleast during summer time I do atleast some of the following: traffic light racing, do some spirited driving and overall drive quite aggressively - atleast corners.
So I'm thinking oil changes + inspection every 6 months is in order? Usually full tank of gas lasts me 500 km (310 miles) but I do lots of city.

Car is now 7 years old and timing belt change schedule on this car is quite ridiculous. At the moment I am planning to take it into shop it next summer about the same time this car becomes 8 years old.
Coolant at the same time and as it so happens brake fluid is 2yo at that point so it'll be done too. Is this a good idea or should I stick to Ford recommendation of 200 000 km or 10 years?

MODS.
I am unsure which mods to get! From this thread https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/intercooler-piping-worth-it.8985/ I learned that charge pipe upgrade kit is not worth it if you are not going into bigger turbo.
Maybe high flow intake in that case?

I've been thinking of buying Mountune Cat-Back Exhaust. I'd like to buy something louder but selection is very limited in my country and I am not interested paying high amount of taxes and whatnot if buying from Whoosh.. :/
If I upgrade exhaust, maybe symposer delete at the same time?

How about intercooler upgrade? Feel like it is not necessary at this power level since it is not too hot here and it's cold from November to April pretty much.

Mud flaps would be nice, don't you think?

Any opinios would be greatly appreciated before I burn more money lol

 

[D1JL]

Dave

 

[XR650R]

The MP 215 was made to work with no other mods needed, other than the airbox that comes with it. You can use the stock filter if you prefer it.
Most people remove the symposer when they get an exhaust, because it can cause some unpleasant resonance with the louder pipe.
I still have the stock exhaust, but I removed the symposer anyway. I have a full intake and intercooler, and it makes lovely noises when I get on it.

The stock intercooler is good enough for the MP 215, especially in colder climates like Finland. If you ever decide to go "stage 2," you'll want a bigger one.

I put mud flaps on my EcoSport, but I don't like them for a Fiesta. It's just a matter of personal taste. That might be a good idea if you drive it in the snow.

 

[Dialcaliper]

3 door should have identical wheel wells as our US 5-door. In any case, with 16” winter tires, 195/50R16 will definitely fit, and as long as you don’t lower the car, 195/55R16 winter tires will also fit, (which also gives some slight extra ground clearance over the 195/45 you were talking about). Both of those sizes have good options, especially the 195/55 (which is a BMW and Mini factory winter size in Europe). If you don’t already have wheels, 15” rims will also fit over the stock brakes, so 185/60R15 (and possibly 185/65R15) is also an option

The TS870’s are an excellent snow/rain/slush tire, they are decent on ice, but if you get a lot of icy conditions you may want something like the Nokian R5 or the Conti Viking 7

Mudflaps help a little with wheel spray, but most “direct fit” (Rallyarmor, mountune etc) are actually a little on the small side to be truly effective and somewhat of a “style” choice. Actual rally Fiestas run much larger flaps that are often required to be cut to size (and not always very aesthetically pleasing!)

The absolute most useful power mods are an upgraded Intercooler and some sort of aftermarket tune to go with it. The stock intercooler limits the stock turbo especially when upping the boost, which comes along with any more aggressive tune.

Intakes may give some very modest gains, but are mostly for making nice noises. You’re already doing fine with the MP215 Airbox. Catback exhaust, downpipe, etc. is purely for aural pleasure and makes little or no actual improvement with the stock turbocharger.

Ditching the Symposer is popular, and mostly a noises thing, but if you are considering stage 2 tunes (upgraded intercooler), they have been known to fail with the higher boost pressure. You already have the RMM upgrade, but check it every now and then. If it is a polyurethane type, the front bushing tends to degrade from
heat being near the catalytic converter and may need replacing or refurbished (new bushings) if it has more than about 25k km on it.

With the car at 75k km, I would strongly consider replacing the shocks if they are the original ones. One of the best low budget options is hunting down a set of Bilstein B6 shocks and keep your stock springs.

Since you are concerned about winters in Finland, I would not recommend lowering the car. You can consider a rear sway bar, and while it will improve handling on dry roads, it will make the car pretty tail happy in the snow, which is less good. The factory roll stiffness is decent, and while front sway bars to match the rear do exist, replacing the front bar is a rather large job (requires dropping the front subframe).

Factory brakes with “summer” brake pads are already excellent for the street, and only really need upgrading if you will be hitting the track/autocross.

I think those are probably main bang-for-the-euro performance mods to consider (intercooler, tune and shocks).

The last is that the FiST has a marginal cooling system. If you do intend to drive the car hard for extended periods, you may encounter overheating. If so, consider an upgraded radiator (Mountune makes a great drop in one that’s probably available if you can get other Mountune parts). But most likely you won’t need it from the driving habits you described.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Rallyarmor does offer larger and thicker mil material (and more costly than their 'street rally style') 'motorsport spec' mud flaps which are much more 'stylish' and trimmed/radiused at the corners than the 'you cut 'em yourself' usual competition rally flaps.

But, they do not come with any mounting hardware/system at all, so that would have to be figured out by the owner anyway.

 

[2stock4u]

Thank you everyone for your input

Special thanks @Dialcaliper for providing such detailed answer, didn't expect that!
I do, however, have follow up questions.

Good to know about the tires. I do already have 16" wheels from the first owner and still using winter tires made in august 2016, which is why I need to buy new ones.
Now I just have to make the choice which tire size I will be using, which one is the best: 195/45R16, 195/50R16 or 195/55R16?

The conclusion I am arriving at is: I do not need an upgraded intercooler if I stay on MP215 and given the finnish summer weather but it would still be beneficial?
I figure I could invest in one.

you may encounter overheating

How would I exactly notice this? The four bars indicating coolant temperature have never been more than 4 bars no matter the weather and type of driving.
I've only had rear brakes overheating, noticed burning smell.

they have been known to fail with the higher boost pressure.

I had symposer actually fitted and I was a little dissapointed how I didn't hear much. Then I realized how much it faked noise.
However, the symposer FAILED after 20 km driving, just as I put pedal to the metal and check engine light came on. I had to drive back and had them fix it. It was dreadful driving without boost.

If it is a polyurethane type, the front bushing tends to degrade from
heat being near the catalytic converter and may need replacing or refurbished (new bushings) if it has more than about 25k km on it.

I had RMM installed by a mechanic, it is the one from Mountune, I believe it is polyurethane type; https://www.mountunestore.com/products/fiesta-b299st-roll-restrictor
Is there any symptoms I will notice when it is failing? I believe I have driven 10k km with it. I didn't expect that I would have to replace it, genuinely baffled.

One of the best low budget options is hunting down a set of Bilstein B6 shocks and keep your stock springs.

This one intrigued me alot. How does this work? I had my yearly law mandated routine inspection just last month and I passed it without any additional comments regarding anything which leads me to believe nothing is actually wrong with suspension?
Is there much improvement to be made? Do I need additional parts? Local Autodoc website only has to offer B4 and B8 shocks.
I sent message to Ron at Whoosh bc it does not offer shipment to my address(?) plus I need to know how much taxes and shipment I need to pay. I presume it's 200 euros extra..
I would not be installing them personally.

Since you are concerned about winters in Finland, I would not recommend lowering the car.

A friend of mine who has all bells and whistles on his '14 M135i continously buggers me about lowering the car He's had zero issues during our winters, he has clearance that you can just about fit your five fingers on your hand on the tire.
I've been against it, I actually like the current ride height but it does not look aesthetically that pleasing.

 

[foodtruck]

How sensitive is your hearing? If it is in any way, whatever mods you put on, IMO 1) don't make anything louder, 2) keep all of the stock bushings (including the front rubber suspension mounts). The car turns into a giant resonator with you inside if you start stiffening things up.

 

[2stock4u]

How sensitive is your hearing?.

I don't really know. I always listen music LOUD (Spotify max + 10-16 volume) I hear these random knocking kind of noises from glovebox or from the trunk. I guess it's an econobox thing?
Good to know, thank you.

 

[dhminer]

How sensitive is your hearing? If it is in any way, whatever mods you put on, IMO 1) don't make anything louder, 2) keep all of the stock bushings (including the front rubber suspension mounts). The car turns into a giant resonator with you inside if you start stiffening things up.

Trans mount was the one that made my car a total rattle box, FWIW.

 

[2stock4u]

Trans mount was the one that made my car a total rattle box, FWIW

This happens from time to time. No matter the road type whatnot.
Sorry, I am unsure what do you refer to transmission mount? https://www.mountunestore.com/products/fiesta-b299st-roll-restrictor ?

 

[dhminer]

This happens from time to time. No matter the road type whatnot.
Sorry, I am unsure what do you refer to transmission mount? https://www.mountunestore.com/products/fiesta-b299st-roll-restrictor ?

Sorry for confusion, was just adding onto what foodtruck said about the rattling. Totally irrelevant to your question.

I have the mountune roll restrictor as well and it’s been perfectly solid for several years.

As for the remainder of mod plans, I think you’re on a great path.

I ran a Mountune symposer delete for ~1 year while pushing 26-27 psi on MP215 and Dizzy stage 2/E30 tunes and it never leaked. The other thing to consider with the symposer is whether you want to swap the symposer for a symposer port BOV which solves two problems - symposer and factory BPV both suck.

B6 with stock springs or B8 with Mountune springs (mountune’s clubsport suspension) would serve you well, I think.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Thank you everyone for your input

Special thanks @Dialcaliper for providing such detailed answer, didn't expect that!
I do, however, have follow up questions.

Good to know about the tires. I do already have 16" wheels from the first owner and still using winter tires made in august 2016, which is why I need to buy new ones.
Now I just have to make the choice which tire size I will be using, which one is the best: 195/45R16, 195/50R16 or 195/55R16?

The conclusion I am arriving at is: I do not need an upgraded intercooler if I stay on MP215 and given the finnish summer weather but it would still be beneficial?
I figure I could invest in one.

How would I exactly notice this? The four bars indicating coolant temperature have never been more than 4 bars no matter the weather and type of driving.
I've only had rear brakes overheating, noticed burning smell.


I had symposer actually fitted and I was a little dissapointed how I didn't hear much. Then I realized how much it faked noise.
However, the symposer FAILED after 20 km driving, just as I put pedal to the metal and check engine light came on. I had to drive back and had them fix it. It was dreadful driving without boost.


I had RMM installed by a mechanic, it is the one from Mountune, I believe it is polyurethane type; https://www.mountunestore.com/products/fiesta-b299st-roll-restrictor
Is there any symptoms I will notice when it is failing? I believe I have driven 10k km with it. I didn't expect that I would have to replace it, genuinely baffled.


This one intrigued me alot. How does this work? I had my yearly law mandated routine inspection just last month and I passed it without any additional comments regarding anything which leads me to believe nothing is actually wrong with suspension?
Is there much improvement to be made? Do I need additional parts? Local Autodoc website only has to offer B4 and B8 shocks.
I sent message to Ron at Whoosh bc it does not offer shipment to my address(?) plus I need to know how much taxes and shipment I need to pay. I presume it's 200 euros extra..
I would not be installing them personally.


A friend of mine who has all bells and whistles on his '14 M135i continously buggers me about lowering the car He's had zero issues during our winters, he has clearance that you can just about fit your five fingers on your hand on the tire.
I've been against it, I actually like the current ride height but it does not look aesthetically that pleasing.

If you stay at stock ride height, I’d go with the 195/55R16 tires - I’ve been quite happy with my winters in that size and it gains you almost 0.5” of ground clearance switching from summer tires. If you add mudflaps, you may need to put shorter nuts on the front attachment studs and trim the studs a bit.

The ST is already lowered from a factory Fiesta. Because of the econobox suspension design (especially in the front), lowering more does not really improve performance, and can actually increase body roll slightly if taken more than about an inch below stock. Personally I prefer the “wheels centered in the wheelwell” look over the “eliminate all fender gap” you get with lowering springs.

If you haven’t ever seen the temp gauge budge, don’t worry about it the radiator.

With upgraded intercooler, and even with M215, you will not see much of any improvement on the stock ECU without changing the ecu calibration/tune. In your neck of the woods, I’d check out the offerings from Pumaspeed in the UK, as the Cobb Accessport that’s popular on the US side of the pond does not work on Euro/UK cars. If you don’t plan to change the tune, you won’t get much out of engine mods.

Looking at Pumaspeed, the MaxD 1R would be an appropriate match for your MP215 intake, and if you upgrade the intercooler, you could run a 2R tune without issues (the downpipe is not necessary on a stock turbo, and a lot of work to swap). I’d contact pumaspeed and make sure they’d be compatible with your Finland car before buying one though.

Regarding the RMM, the only way I noticed the bushing going bad was I happened to be looking underneath with the engine running, and when the A/C kicked on, I could see the engine visibly rocking on the poly bushing, which had been rounded out. At 10k km you probably won’t see any issues yet. After replacing the bushings (In have a whoosh mount, and Ron sells replacements) the torque steer was noticeably improved. Vibration actually got slightly worse with fresh bushings, as the engine was free to rock with the worn loose bushing.

Bilstein B6’s have been on backorder for a while in the US lately. Even with Ron, I’d email him to make sure they’re actually in stock in his warehouse. Front B6’s are finally available again here, but I still haven’t found rears in stock.

The worn stock shocks are perfectly “safe” to drive around on until well over 150k km, but from a performance standpoint, as they wear out, the shock valving wears out and damping gradually gets softer and the car wont feel as “tight”. A new set of factory shocks or B4 replacements will still be an improvement over old shocks. There’s not really any urgent rush - I t’s something you probably wont even notice until after you replace them 🤣.

 

[2stock4u]

If you stay at stock ride height, I’d go with the 195/55R16 tires

Ah, you are such a life saver, thank you! That is what I will do.

If you add mudflaps, you may need to put shorter nuts on the front attachment studs and trim the studs a bit.

Sorry, I do not follow. I like the idea of mud flaps and a mechanic will for sure do it for me. What I understand, this might be an issue but if an experienced mechanic is doing the labour for me, he would surely notice it and get it done regardless?

If you haven’t ever seen the temp gauge budge, don’t worry about it the radiator.

OK. Thank you. It must really get hot in there if it budges under normal or during spirited driving!?

stock ECU without changing the ecu calibration/tune

Is MP215 considered as stock ECU? I have always considered MP215 as a stage 1 tune? All I do have is 182hp, yes, but from my understanding each time I floor the gas pedal I get an overboost for 30 seconds max 215 hp?
Is it a problem if I don't have mTune handset?

MaxD 1R would be an appropriate match for your MP215 intake, and if you upgrade the intercooler, you could run a 2R tune without issues

I will look into this and send them email. Thanks - again.

There’s not really any urgent rush - I t’s something you probably wont even notice until after you replace them 🤣.

You got me interested already! I found some retailers here in Finland that might sell B6 for ST, I sent an email there. B4 will definitely be doable and for less than 400 euros, parts at least.
I've got some money to burn, not too much though but I can do a little. Number 1 modification on my mind is new winter tires - then the rest. Though winter is coming, I might hold on till April for B4/B6 replacements.

One question though; what is your opinion regarding timing belt, water pump etc replacement? Ford recommends 10yo or 200 000 km but needless to say I don't put that many km.
On my post I was considering getting it replaced next summer when the car turns 8yo. Too soon or recommended? I'd wager I have 85 000 km at that point.
My friend has 1.0 ecoboost and just a month before the car turned 10yo being at 140 000 km I think, he got red oil light or similar and had to pay 1800 for timing belt replacement.
I know ST timing belt doesn't soak in oil so it's good.

 

[Dialcaliper]

Ah, you are such a life saver, thank you! That is what I will do.


Sorry, I do not follow. I like the idea of mud flaps and a mechanic will for sure do it for me. What I understand, this might be an issue but if an experienced mechanic is doing the labour for me, he would surely notice it and get it done regardless?


OK. Thank you. It must really get hot in there if it budges under normal or during spirited driving!?


Is MP215 considered as stock ECU? I have always considered MP215 as a stage 1 tune? All I do have is 182hp, yes, but from my understanding each time I floor the gas pedal I get an overboost for 30 seconds max 215 hp?
Is it a problem if I don't have mTune handset?


I will look into this and send them email. Thanks - again.


You got me interested already! I found some retailers here in Finland that might sell B6 for ST, I sent an email there. B4 will definitely be doable and for less than 400 euros, parts at least.
I've got some money to burn, not too much though but I can do a little. Number 1 modification on my mind is new winter tires - then the rest. Though winter is coming, I might hold on till April for B4/B6 replacements.

One question though; what is your opinion regarding timing belt, water pump etc replacement? Ford recommends 10yo or 200 000 km but needless to say I don't put that many km.
On my post I was considering getting it replaced next summer when the car turns 8yo. Too soon or recommended? I'd wager I have 85 000 km at that point.
My friend has 1.0 ecoboost and just a month before the car turned 10yo being at 140 000 km I think, he got red oil light or similar and had to pay 1800 for timing belt replacement.
I know ST timing belt doesn't soak in oil so it's good.

Regarding the mud flaps, it’s not a standard thing, just something some people have noticed.

Attached a picture of my car with the 195/55R16 TS870. In the closeup of the front you can see the two mudflap nuts just behind the front wheel (pic is after I shortened them). The nuts that come with the rallyarmor flaps are about 1/8” (3mm) taller, and the stud sticks out slightly past them. Clearance was about 5-6mm before trimming which made me a little uncomfortable. Now it’s a solid 9mm gap from the tire

Just to clarify, are you sure that the car has the full MP215 package including the ECU flash tune, or just the Airbox which is available separately? Wasn’t sure from your original post. If you already have the tune you’re fine and don’t need anything unless you decide to do the intercooler and upgrade to a “stage 2” (Mountune MR230 or other options)

 

[2stock4u]

In the closeup of the front you can see the two mudflap nuts just behind the front wheel (pic is after I shortened them). The nuts that come with the rallyarmor flaps are about 1/8” (3mm) taller, and the stud sticks out slightly past them. Clearance was about 5-6mm before trimming which made me a little uncomfortable. Now it’s a solid 9mm gap from the tire

Ah, I see now what you meant!

are you sure that the car has the full MP215 package including the ECU flash tune

Yes, our one and only Mountune dealer in Finland confirmed from their database. I also have original installation cerficate as well. But from my understanding in 2016 you could just do at any Ford dealer MP215 tune, which meant you didn't get mTune device.
However, my vehicle was fitted at the Mountune dealer but like mentioned - no Mtune device. Maybe previous owner wanted to keep it? But why..

MR230 tuning is quite expensive therefore not likely I'll ever do it. But this Pumaspeed version sounds better than Mountune which you mentioned.

 

[rallytaff]

lowering more does not really improve performance, and can actually increase body roll slightly if taken more than about an inch below stock.

"lowering more does not really improve performance, and can actually increase body roll slightly if taken more than about an inch below stock."

Hate to disagree with you. I'm lowered on H & R coilovers and have absolutely NO body roll and makes my car handle a lot better than with stock suspension. Wouldn't change it for anything.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The car turns into a giant resonator with you inside if you start stiffening things up.

Or gutting the interior, even from just behind the front seats.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Also, even if your roads are great enough, and your winter snow/ice road coverage is taken care of quickly by the plows there (why you think that lowering the car will not be a problem, I guess??) I would absolutely NOT use those (available in Europe only, it seems) 195/45-16 winter tires.

You WANT a little bit of 'mushiness' in the side walls of a winter tire to help with the tread evacuation, and a 195/50-16 is already fairly rigid in the side wall area, even if you do not need a 'cushy' ride, or are not worried about wheel protection, etc..

Yes, if you can get away with it clearance wise, the 195/55-16s suggested by Dialcaliper would be ideal.

 

[jmrtsus]

Ah, I see now what you meant!


Yes, our one and only Mountune dealer in Finland confirmed from their database. I also have original installation cerficate as well. But from my understanding in 2016 you could just do at any Ford dealer MP215 tune, which meant you didn't get mTune device.
However, my vehicle was fitted at the Mountune dealer but like mentioned - no Mtune device. Maybe previous owner wanted to keep it? But why..

MR230 tuning is quite expensive therefore not likely I'll ever do it. But this Pumaspeed version sounds better than Mountune which you mentioned.

The MP-215 comes with AP device in the box in all the world as far as I know, no "special" Ford USA dealer tunes. If you did not get it it was lost or previous owner kept it thinking he could reuse it. You did not have to use a Ford dealer to install it for warranty purposes, any ASE mechanic could install it here in the USA and validate the warranty like mine. My purchasing dealer was so stupid they thought it would invalidate the warranty and refused to install it, LOL! Dealers are dumber than dirt on our cars.