2014 Ford fiesta St 1.6 ecoboost

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#1
So I recently be came the proud owner of a 2014 ford fiesta St and I swapped the battery on with a new one and now I'm getting a U1007. Car just cranks and cranks but doesn't start up need help on how t ok rest bms with out scanner please thank you
 


OP
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Thread Starter #3
yes it started up drove home. i went to go to work this morning and battery was dead so i went to autozone and git a 96R battery as it calls for and installed new battery and it cranks and cranks and i get the code every time U1007 dtc code. the guy that had it said his son installed a cobb tuner on the car which i have now as well
 


CarGuy

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#4
yes it started up drove home. i went to go to work this morning and battery was dead so i went to autozone and git a 96R battery as it calls for and installed new battery and it cranks and cranks and i get the code every time U1007 dtc code. the guy that had it said his son installed a cobb tuner on the car which i have now as well
Who installed the battery? You or AutoZone? Negative cable connected last?

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OP
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Thread Starter #5
i did and yes negitive last
 


Intuit

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#6
That's got to be frustrating to run into a problem on a simple battery change.

Search the forum here...
https://www.google.com/search?q=site:fiestastforum.com+u1007

I thought that would've been a unique experience but apparently isn't. For as much as people fiddle with these vehicles, changing stuff out, guess I shouldn't be surprised.

Without reviewing the other threads, my guess is a weak connection to ground. EDIT Memory serving I think there's also a secondary connection at the positive terminal. /EDIT If the battery tray was fiddled with, the ECU is attached to it. This I've seen, is not uncommon among manufacturers.

(Side Note: Ford unwisely stuck another ground right frick'n beneath the battery tray - the acids will rust this out. Probably an engine/trans/alternator ground. )
 


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Intuit

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Oh, you can verify and even narrow down whether there's a bad connection with voltage drop testing. However, the circuit has to be loaded to it's potential in order for the test to be truly representative. This guy for example, shows that a whopping 94% of power is being lost. Had he loaded the circuit, it would've shown damn near 100% of power being dropped. Any more than 6% of loss on a loaded circuit is considered excessive. You can easily test any connection (including through relays and switches) by poking a safety-pin or straight-pin through a wire to get a reading at that point.
View: https://youtu.be/xerAp9Yd53Y
 


OP
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Thread Starter #8
Thanks I'll go out and check it now I'll let y'all know what I find
 


OP
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Thread Starter #9
S i have checked all fuses and grounds and wires and cables..and still getting u1007 could it be the neg.BMS be bad... is there away to bypass it at all
 


Intuit

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The error might be from the scan tool, rather than the vehicle. Scan tool might simply be saying "I ain't got noth'n."

Did you get a battery that sat on the shelf too long?

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Sam4

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#16
If the car cranks - why are we worried about the battery? Any 12v battery will allow it to start, the correct battery just also fits the tray. I'm confused - get off my lawn...
 


Intuit

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@Sam4 - The fault began on the way home, by which time the battery was killed. When he replaced it, it cranked but wouldn't start. When the battery monitoring system (BMS) is detecting a fault code, the Body Control Module and Powertain Control Modules won't allow the system to charge the battery; or allow the car to restart after shutdown. So it cranks, but won't start.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #18
Thank you everybody for the comments and help big thanks to Intuit for everything... Still trying fix this problem though
 


SteveS

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#19
Might the problem lie with the battery current sensor? That's the expensive battery cable with the box on it that makes it cost $100.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #20
@Intuit- I'm gonna take some pictures and upload them so you can see. When I got going on here because I have the two prong wires coming off the neg.bms to a 3 amp fuse yellow wire stops there and the I got another wire a purple the runs directly form the bms neg side to the pcm that's it
 




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