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2nd pair of rotors in 6 months - am I doing it wrong?

TyphoonFiST

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#41
I would avoid Centric blank rotors & Carbotech 1521 pads. I put a set on in May and after maybe 1k miles they were squeaking like crazy at low speed. After about 3k miles there is visible wear on the rotors. I don't know if it was the pads or the rotors but I won't be using either one anymore. Those pads were stupid expensive too, big waste of money. I'll probably end up replacing them after around 5-6k miles when they're no longer usable.
My 1521s were on slotted cryoed rotors for I think at least 25k. Worked decent and just needed to be bedded in properly. All highway use also....no tracking or autocrossing. I am on EBC yellows...great pads....minimal dust.

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Magnetic

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#42
My 1521s were on slotted cryoed rotors for I think at least 25k. Worked decent and just needed to be bedded in properly. All highway use also....no tracking or autocrossing. I am on EBC yellows...great pads....minimal dust.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
Glad to hear the yellows are minimal dust. That’s what just went on my car. Yay!
 


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SF Bay Area
#44
My 1521s were on slotted cryoed rotors for I think at least 25k. Worked decent and just needed to be bedded in properly. All highway use also....no tracking or autocrossing. I am on EBC yellows...great pads....minimal dust.

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk
My driving is the opposite. Almost no freeways, mostly twisty mountain roads and I drive pretty hard everywhere. It's my weekend fun car. I think any pad will do fine for highway use. The issue with our cars is the torque vectoring and how pads hold up to that type of braking. I wish I would have tried the EBC yellows instead of the Carbotechs but I think after this experience I'll just go back to stock. I can't risk spending that kind of money again just to replace everything after a few thousand miles.
 


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Beverly Hills
#45
I would say be cautious of ebc organge pads (should have slightly higher heat tolarance than yellows) if you track your car. had orange fronts, yellow rears. At some point the orange melted. for street driving no problem but not as grabby as oem pads.

now on hawk dtc-30 front, hawk hp plus rears. just replaced my fronts last week and no melting plus lot longer wear. They are also as grabby as oems imo, Note they will squeak at low speeds, right before coming to a stop and get more dust, but otherwise its a usable dual street and track pad solution at least for me so far (stock power levels).

I think its definitely worth it to get quality parts and would never skimp on brakes especially.
 


M-Sport fan

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#47
This could be in "What did you do to your ST today?", but I had no choice but to limp in to the dealership for brakes. Missed my expired inspection sticker, and the pads started shrieking at the same time. Never had the "right time" to lube the sliders in the last 2 weeks...Kennedy Ford in Conshy was good enough to listen to me say the rotors were still fine (in fact - still within tolerance), replaced pads, lubed my pins, and well, $500 bucks is the new $50.
Why I am avoiding Fred Beans like the plague, since they would most likely charge even more than that, for not even doing as good a job. [mad]

I might just give Ditschman In Flemington a try though, as they send me decent discount coupons on anything over $100.00 of labor.
They also told me that they do the slider greasing as part of the standard procedure for a brake job.
 


Last edited:

M-Sport fan

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#48
I replaced my brakes back in 2018 (pads & rotors F&R) with stoptech rotors and hawk 5.0 pads as well. The rears are looking like new still but the front pads and rotors were completely worn metal to metal. When I took the car to my mechanic to install the coil overs he said my right caliper was shot.

That’s the whole reason I upgraded to the EBC kit. I really hope the same thing doesn’t happen on this kit because I’m sure these rotors and pads are going to be expensive to replace.

I’m going to install a new clutch and LSD in hopes this will curb the torque vectoring stuff and allow my front breaks to were both sides more evenly.
Yes, JDG's module helps, but everyone on here tells me that the torque vectoring is still there, even with that device, or holding the console button down for the full length of time. [:(]
 


iammacey

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#49
There are a few things that stand out based on OPs description.
- low mileage
- gentle driving
- brake pedal requires pumping
- pulls to the left under braking
- vibration under braking

Even with cheap pads, this type of mileage and this type of driving wouldn't result in high wear. Take a look at the pads to see how much they have actually worn.

Applying the brake pedal with no slowing of the car, having to pump the brake, is not normal or a fluke. Likely air in the lines. Maybe a failing master cylinder. I would do a full brake system flush. You can look this up on YouTube if you've never done it.

When swapping brake pads and pushing the piston back into the caliper, you should open the bleeder valve and catch the fluid, versus pushing it back into the master cylinder.

As has been stated, you should assess the guide pins on all four corners. Remove, clean, fresh grease.

Assess the rotors for pad residue. You may see places on the rotor surface where the pad left pad shaped residue. If this is present, that is likely what's causing your vibration. You can pull the rotors and clean them. Hit them with brake cleaner and steel wool.

Once everything is checked, flushed, and mounted back up, bed the brakes.
 


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West Chester, PA, USA
#50
Previous set up was EBC all the way around - Green stuff and the black-coated, slotted rotors. I think the fronts out-last the rears by 30-50%, does that seem...uhhh..not the norm (searching for phrase)? I guess its just the way the hydraulics are designed with rear bias.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #51
did OP ever check his guide pins?
Not yet. Life things got in the way. Gonna try again on Monday or Tuesday before the Turkey comes down the chimney.
 


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#52
uhhh..not the norm (searching for phrase)?
abnormal? lol

That's def not the norm. When you replaced them did you remove and regrease rear slide pins? I know I probably sound like the old mean screaming at the clouds about guide pins, but the rears especially are known to rust and get stuck. Happens to me almost every time I replace my pads, which is why I go with OEM, they don't last long enough for the rears to get totally stuck :LOL:
 


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#53
abnormal? lol

That's def not the norm. When you replaced them did you remove and regrease rear slide pins? I know I probably sound like the old mean screaming at the clouds about guide pins, but the rears especially are known to rust and get stuck. Happens to me almost every time I replace my pads, which is why I go with OEM, they don't last long enough for the rears to get totally stuck :LOL:
that's "abby normal." Nope - I'm on 3rd set of pads all the way 'round. My mistake. Rear slide pins??? yeah they need more attn.
 


OP
358R

358R

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Thread Starter #54
abnormal? lol

That's def not the norm. When you replaced them did you remove and regrease rear slide pins? I know I probably sound like the old mean screaming at the clouds about guide pins, but the rears especially are known to rust and get stuck. Happens to me almost every time I replace my pads, which is why I go with OEM, they don't last long enough for the rears to get totally stuck :LOL:
Nah, i get it. It's easy to overlook things. And yes, I greased them.
 


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