Block all air from going around the IC as possible, this is far to often overlooked, this car really needs it.

[RAAMaudio]

To maximize any intercooler I most highly recommend using some ABS plastic sheet and blocking off any air from going around the IC, sides, top and bottom. It will help a great deal especially since the opening to it is so small, force more air into the areas not in the direct line of air flow, etc......

Looks good though

ABS is my preferred material, light weight, can be molded with a little heat applied, flexible enough to not damage things much in a minor hit, easy to work with, low cost. I buy it in 4'x8' sheets wholesale for $32!

I will post mine up before long, nearly ready to put the front of the car back together after months with the bumper cover, whole bumper several times, off the car. I opened up the whole grill, notched the bumper and added an oil cooler as well as CAI duct inside the grill which is more than most will want to do but you can open up more of the grill and consider an oil cooler if having heat issues and want to try not running a bigger radiator, etc....I did all my mods as no radiator available yet.

I also vent some of the air from the lower section of the IC I have out below the radiator so less hot air is blown into it to help engine cooling.

Also for cooling the stock oil to water cooler is nice to warm up the car on cold days faster but then adds more stress to the undersized radiator when driving hard in the heat.

Good day
Rick

 

[CanadianST]

Sounds very interesting! Was thinking something around these lines but never went into any depth with it. In for some pics

 

[BlueBomber]

So what you are saying is basically ducting to channel air directly at the intercooler?

 

[Sekred]

Thats a coincidence, I am removing my bumper today to improve the airflow to the IC after having a think about what I would do.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I would consider notching the bumper like I did, it has some structural aspects, more than some cars have worked on, part of what makes the car handle so well, I am sure, not absolutely but makes sense when you see it all apart.

Also it mounts differently than some, you would have to cut it off and leave some of it as the core support which is plastic bolts to it.

I sanded off the back of the grill for full air flow through it as well.

I have considered cutting some well trimmed oval holes in the bumper cover that blocks the upper part of the IC core as well but with it sealed up well that might not need to be done.

As for the notch, I welded in a filler so air would not just go out the ends of the beam.

Another option is thin wall tubing, use a hole saw, drill holes through, tack weld to the bumper, cut off flush, easier than notching in some ways.

 

[Sekred]

I would consider notching the bumper like I did, it has some structural aspects, more than some cars have worked on, part of what makes the car handle so well, I am sure, not absolutely but makes sense when you see it all apart.

Also it mounts differently than some, you would have to cut it off and leave some of it as the core support which is plastic bolts to it.

I sanded off the back of the grill for full air flow through it as well.

I have considered cutting some well trimmed oval holes in the bumper cover that blocks the upper part of the IC core as well but with it sealed up well that might not need to be done.

As for the notch, I welded in a filler so air would not just go out the ends of the beam.

Another option is thin wall tubing, use a hole saw, drill holes through, tack weld to the bumper, cut off flush, easier than notching in some ways.

I considered modify my front crash bar, if I did I would need a engineering certificate and changes to make sure no structural strength had been lost. My insurance company would write me off in a heart beat if I had a front end accident and had modified the front crash bar.

 

[razorlab]

I see you aren't running the front airbag crash sensors either? So making a full track car I assume?

 

[RAAMaudio]

The big fat air flow blocking mount for those was replaced by a 1/2" sq tube, they are mounted to it but a bit higher up and one is offset a bit but where the opposite side was in comparison, lowered car, raised sensors.......

The tube is also the oil cooler mount.

Drivers side was installed before my air intake was made but OK there, passenger side is above the oil cooler.

Might not be exactly same reaction time but I bet not an issue to worry about.

Good call, this is a street/track build with all the safety stuff on board and functional.

I just ordered parts today to run Schroth Quick Fit BMW 4 point harnesses I had that are virtually brand new, they are the only harness I will ever wear without a roll bar. I also have a $750 super low weight and strong helmet, carbon X underwear, suit, gloves, shoes, and a Halatron fire bottle I can reach when on track. I am deciding which neck brace to get as well, should of kept my R3, it was the best.

I am also looking seriously at building a real roll bar, I take safety quite seriously

 

[razorlab]

ooooh, so you did relocate them? Do you have the dimensions and more photos of the relocation? I am very interested in that!

 

[RAAMaudio]

I bit better picture.

I did not write down any measurements, just made it less restrictive and moved up around 1.5" to where I wanted the oil cooler located which is entirely in the direct path of incoming air. If you need it I can get the info though.

I would of used round stock but did not have any and it was a 60 mile round trip to go to the city so just used the sq tubing but it is far better than it used to be.

The IC no longer has an upside down M on it

At least the support rod is round tubing, rather thin wall but all it needed, still stronger than stock and about the same weight though longer.

I am looking into ideas on a fabric tow strap, front and rear, that slides into the grill.

 

[me32]

So does that air tubing go straight to your Air box?

 

[RAAMaudio]

I have been working on an air box using the factory input and the one from the grill but for now tied it into the factory one.

I removed the washer bottle as it was in the way of this and the brake ducts from the fog light openings and putting a smaller one in the back of the car.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I have also considered adding a round tube, 1" diameter, between the vertical areas where I cut out the bumper beam to add some strength back into it.

I know round tubing causes turbulence so look at some wing shaped metal like they use in outboard aircraft struts but it is $$$$$$.

I will have a bit more drag with the wide open grill but I figure it is a worthwhile trade off to have better cooling.

 

[me32]

that's looks great so far

 

[CanadianST]

Very cool! Always love reading your threads the stuff you have done is pretty amazing!

 

[ryst]

Which IC is this Rick? It looks similar to the J line but the outlets are not centered.

 

[RAAMaudio]

It is the J Line, heavier than I would like to use but I need lots of cooling for hot days on track that are coming up soon!

Thanks for the compliments

I am having much fun doing this and also want to fix all issues before I go full time RVing and not have a place to work any longer.

 

[westcoaST]

Have you considered using mat edge trim media to channel airflow around you intercooler? It is bendable, can be applied with adhesive, and is relatively inexpensive, and has an edge lip. I plan on installing my levels IC as soon as I get it next week, and will be looking at this as an option to create a flow path.

Also, you may want to consider boxing in the crash bar, to increase structural rigidity. A plate placed over the top of the crash bar and welded in place will still allow airflow, but box the structure better, kind of like a boxed frame.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Thanks, I will just use the ABS method as I have a full sheet and I am used to working with it, it heat molds well, etc.....just cut cardboard templates, then cut, heat and bend, etc....I have a heat strip and a heat gun so all set but your idea looks great as well

I use rivets, self drilling screws and whenever possible window glazing double sided tape I buy in big commercial rolls.

------------

I was going to leave the top plate but it was hard to get to what I needed to do the rest so cut it off but your idea on this is also a great one but I do not want to take it out again as very hard on my back, shoulders, etc...I have had numerous sports injuries and was hit in the back by a crane so I am supposed to be disabled though to busy to claim it, taking the bumper off is not so hard but putting it on really jacks my back up and it has been off three times so....I can weld a tube across while in place so I will likely do that.

I could no do some of this work without my lift and other tools that make it easier.

 

[westcoaST]

I've always wanted a lift, but my ceiling is not high enough. I am also a victim of an accident and am an old man (61), so I feel your pain, literally!. I've been looking into these portable lifts that lift the car from the center or from a wheel. They're about 1K per side, but can be stored away when not used. I have a much smaller workspace than you (3 car garage), but have all the old man tools (compressor & air tools) to help me. I often joke about how long I think it will take to get stuff done. I figure 2 hours to complete a task and then multiply by 2! I'm a welding engineer and metallurgist that works for an aerospace company that allows me use of their equipment on Saturdays, so I've never had to purchase a welder, mill, etc, as I have access. I've been closely following your build with interest. I have a 2011 Mustang 3.7 that I'm boring and stroking. That is my race car, and the Fiesta is my daily driver. Can't wait to see videos of your car on the track. It will probably open up a lot of eyes as to the potential of this car.