Brake cooling?

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#1
So after doing my first track weekend I am now looking at cooling options for the stock brakes on these cars. I have on order a set of CMBuildz brake cooling backing plates, but I was wondering how other people have routed their brake cooling. I've seen people replace their fog lights with ducting hose and just run them to the rotors, but ideally you want the ducts as close to the middle as possible for the cleanest air. Has anyone cut holes in the front bumper valiance (the black plastic portion under the bumper that sticks down) and run their cooling from there? That would allow for the cleanest airflow at least thats the impression I have.

Any advice/input would be greatly appreciated! [driving][driving]
 


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sidewaysallday
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Thread Starter #3
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#5
Great link. I havent put much thought into brake cooling, but thats not a complicated mod, and could definitely be worthwhile down the road.
 


CanadianGuy

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#6
Boomba Racing also has one. Either cut the shield or remove it.
 


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sidewaysallday
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Thread Starter #10
These work well for street cars in need of a bit more capacity. Will you guys ever consider making a full on brake cooling kit with ducting for us track rats?
Exactly my concern. I am looking for some full on cooling, which I felt the deflectors would not provide. Still a great product for those who want cooler brakes for street applications.

Wait, CMB is making more brake ducts?
Yes, he is doing another run of his brake ducts. Thread is here: http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/...pacman-chomp-brake-cooling-ducts?goto=newpost
 


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#11
I went and found his vendor section and am excited. I emailed him in late January or early February and he said he was not doing anymore so my solution was going to be modified OEM dust shields. I am buying his set instead as I can just be lazy and bolt these in.
 


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#12
Exactly my concern. I am looking for some full on cooling, which I felt the deflectors would not provide. Still a great product for those who want cooler brakes for street applications.
I wouldnt discount the Boomba cooling deflectors unless you just must add some hoses. Cut a hole in the oem backing plate for flow-through air and I'm quite sure you will be satisfied. I would recommend leaving the oem plate and cutting the hole so the lower section still shields the ball joint somewhat.
 


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sidewaysallday
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Thread Starter #13
Yeah I think I am looking for some full on cooling rather then the deflectors. I would rather do it once and do it right rather then try and mess around with the deflectors and then have to back track and go the route of cooling ducts anyway.
 


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I followed this guys lead today actually: http://fiestast.net/threads/my-brake-ducts-build.2251/ I'm supppsed to be on track tomorrow if the weather holds up. They should work well and the the installation was easy.
I think this setup combined with the CM Buildz plates will be more than adequate for 95% of those seeking more cooling than the deflectors... Hopefully this summer(funding pending) I'll be testing this theory at Road America a few times.
 


Woods247

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The CM Buildz backing plates won't accommodate 3" hose, which is what I used. I'm not sure custom backing plates are necessary. My track time today was cancelled due to bad weather. I'm on track Friday so we will see how this setup works then. It has to be somewhat beneficial.
 


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#17
http://fiestast.net/threads/my-brake-ducts-build.2251/

I followed this build. They work fantastic and they were pretty cheap. I think total I had around $50 in it.
I did the same. I'm running Torque fluid with stock pads now with no fade for the track. Used to run Porterfield R4's before the ducts and had fade. One thing I added was a tabbed washer that I fabricated to hold up the driver's side duct hose. I backed out one transmission bolt and put this washer under it to create an attachment point for a zip tie. It's easy. Do it - it works.

Oh, I didn't bother trying to tap threads as his post instructed, he must be more anal than even me - just drill a hole and put a nylock on the bolt. I bought a Harbor Freight copy of a Fein Tool to cut the openings in the air dam. It cost about $30 and took 5 minutes. I have the ducts connected all year here in WA State despite all of our rain. Even without the dust shields, brake response is immediate in the rain. They're great.

Here's the parts list;

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K8K8HG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K8KBK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI1FYO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 


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