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Clutch to Floor

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Location
Spring, TX
#1
Had read elsewhere about this & had it happen today.
Clutch went to the floor & stayed there, a tiny bump from below & it springs back in place.

Had to clutchless shift a couple times, safer than reaching down to pop it back up.

Cause/fix?
 


OP
JAMADOR
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Spring, TX
Thread Starter #3
Ugh, that's not what I wanted to hear. How had is the R&R of the slave?
Any tips on a fluid flush? Is there a bleed nipple to drain from?
 


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#4
I'm not much of a mechanic so I don't do the work myself, so I can't advise you on the specifics of how you do it.
There are a lot of folks on here who are quite good at working on their cars and hopefully one of them will chime in with the information.
 


Grsemky

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#5
Ugh, that's not what I wanted to hear. How had is the R&R of the slave?
Any tips on a fluid flush? Is there a bleed nipple to drain from?
On the front of the tranny there is a bleed screw/nipple, there should be a yellow cap, typically you reverse bleed into the brake reservoir... use something like this to inject the fluid from the nipple
 


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Suwanee
#6
i don't own a reverse bleeder. I used a mityvac and just bled it normally like i do brakes from the caliper. You have to remove the intake box and battery to get to the valve. put a bleeder on it and rotate the yellow valve by hand and watch the black gunk that's been riding around in your slave cylinder come out.

**that black gunk is why i don't personally like reverse bleeders. reverse bleeding would push that baked brake fluid up into your brake master cylinder, which is not optimal. YMMV.
 


OP
JAMADOR
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Thread Starter #7
Might be worth a shot before diving into R&R the slave.
Is bleeding the clutch a 2-man job? I've only done brakes on other cars.

Just got back from running my kid to school & it feels nearly normal so far. A little slow to return, but didnt stick to the floor.
 


Grsemky

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#9
if you've got a vacuum bleeder you can do it solo. otherwise, prob. a 2 man job.
According to Ford you're supposed to reverse bleed to flush, purchase a fluid extractor like I linked above... No need to remove the air box, put it up on jacks and there's plenty of clearance. After you moved the nasty fluid to the reservoir use the same extractor to remove and replace with fresh fluid, takes maybe 5 min and no helpers required
 


OP
JAMADOR
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Thread Starter #10
Do the brakes & clutch share a reservoir? Took a brief look earlier this morning & only saw the one [driver's side at the back].
 


SteveS

1000 Post Club
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#11
Flushing the fluid will definitely give an improvement. I took the car to the dealer and had them flush and refill both the clutch and brake fluids (shared reservoir) and bleed both systems. It was around $300 to do that. The clutch pedal sticking had become a constant, recurring problem. It's now been at least a year and a half since, and still working great. Do change the habit of holding the clutch in while waiting at a stoplight though.
 


OP
JAMADOR
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Thread Starter #13
I definitely don't ride the clutch. Habit brought from my 75 Midget which can get some major issues from it [thrust washers] on the crankshaft.
Just crossed 100k, might be worth doing coolant flush at the same time. New spark plugs should be here today.
 


Grsemky

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#14
I definitely don't ride the clutch. Habit brought from my 75 Midget which can get some major issues from it [thrust washers] on the crankshaft.
Just crossed 100k, might be worth doing coolant flush at the same time. New spark plugs should be here today.
When I buy a new(to me) car I always go through all the fluids and plugs, just cause you never know others maintenance habits and talk is cheap lol
 


OP
JAMADOR
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Thread Starter #15
I've only put about 2k on it, but agreed.
Did the same with my Midget, but that's a grumpy old Brit. And glad I did, the trans was completely dry, maybe an ounce or 2 of fluid came out, on top of the 11 year old tires that were on it. Glad we trailered it home.
 


M-Sport fan

9000 Post Club
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#16
Correct clutch and brake share a reservoir and fluid
There is a 'spillway' hose coming off of the single reservoir which goes directly to the clutch master cylinder, completely bypassing the brake master cylinder, thereby negating madhatter's concerns about contaminating the brake master with filthy fluid by reverse flushing, correct??

The only dirty used fluid which would get into the system at all by reverse flushing the clutch slave cylinder would be from where that hose connects to the reservoir and into the reservoir itself (far FAR away from either the brake master or the caliper pistons).
 


Grsemky

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#17
There is a 'spillway' hose coming off of the single reservoir which goes directly to the clutch master cylinder, completely bypassing the brake master cylinder, thereby negating madhatter's concerns about contaminating the brake master with filthy fluid by reverse flushing, correct??

The only dirty used fluid which would get into the system at all by reverse flushing the clutch slave cylinder would be from where that hose connects to the reservoir and into the reservoir itself (far FAR away from either the brake master or the caliper pistons).
Exactly, as long as you don't modulate your brakes there's no cause for that dirt to move from the reservoir...
 




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