Compression test results?

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Done a compression test to see how my engine is holding up and it came back as 160/165 psi across all four cylinders. First cylinder had low reading at first but on 2nd attempt it went up from 100 odd psi to 160 WITHOUT doing a wet test! followed by the same results on the other 3 cylinders hitting 160/165 Engine was warm. 2015 reg on 74k miles. (quite amusing to watch as he was holding it as tight as he could to seal as the adapter would not fit im guessing the tester not being screwed in caused the first low reading till he managed to seal it better???)
 


Intuit

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May or may not be an ideal peak for a dry test but they're even.

This is from a 2014 manual...

Compression Test

  1. Make sure the oil in the crankcase is of the correct viscosity and at the correct level and that the battery is correctly charged. Operate the vehicle until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then remove all the spark plugs.
  1. Set the throttle plates in the wide-open position.
  1. Install a compression gauge in the No. 1 cylinder.
  1. Install an auxiliary starter switch in the starting circuit. With the ignition switch in the OFF position, and using the auxiliary starter switch, crank the engine a minimum of 5 compression strokes and record the highest reading. Note the approximate number of compression strokes necessary to obtain the highest reading.
  1. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the engine approximately the same number of compression strokes.
Compression Test - Test Results

The indicated compression pressures are considered within specification if the lowest reading cylinder is at least 75% of the highest reading. Refer to the Compression Pressure Limit Chart.

Compression Pressure Limit Chart

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If one or more cylinders reads low, squirt approximately one tablespoon of engine oil meeting Ford specification on top of the pistons in the low-reading cylinders. Repeat the compression pressure check on these cylinders.

Compression Test - Interpreting Compression Readings

  1. If compression improves considerably, piston rings are worn or damaged.
  1. If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or not seating correctly.
  1. If 2 adjacent cylinders indicate low compression pressures and squirting oil on each piston does not increase compression, the head gasket may be leaking between cylinders. Engine oil or coolant in cylinders could result from this condition. Use the Compression Pressure Limit Chart when checking cylinder compression so the lowest reading is within 75% of the highest reading.
Cylinder Leakage Detection

When a cylinder produces a low reading, use of a cylinder leakage tester will be helpful in pinpointing the exact cause.

The leakage tester is inserted in the spark plug hole, the piston is brought up to TDC on the compression stroke, and compressed air is admitted.

Once the combustion chamber is pressurized, the leakage tester gauge will read the percentage of leakage. Leakage exceeding 20% is excessive.

While the air pressure is retained in the cylinder, listen for the hiss of escaping air. A leak at the intake valve will be heard in the Throttle Body (TB). A leak at the exhaust valve can be heard at the tailpipe. Leakage past the piston rings will be audible at the PCV connection. If air is passing through a blown head gasket to an adjacent cylinder, the noise will be evident at the spark plug hole of the cylinder into which the air is leaking. Cracks in the cylinder block or gasket leakage into the cooling system may be detected by a stream of bubbles in the radiator.
 


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Thread Starter #3
May or may not be an ideal peak for a dry test but they're even.

This is from a 2014 manual...
What do you mean may or may not? Isn't it true as long as the psi is within 150/180psi through all cylinders thats good or am I wrong?
 


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