EURO Depo Headlight DRL Wiring/BCM issue.

[Lil BeanST]

Anyone had a BCM issue that causes headlight specifically parking light issues such and randomly turning off or getting no voltage when there should be voltage to the wire? I cannot find any shorts or damaged wires I was told by a tech at my work that it could be my BCM but figured I'd try to get some more insight form you guys.
So, when I check my driver side wiring it has 12 volts to the wire that powers the DRL's or the Parking + wire, and on Passenger Side I am getting 0 volts through the wire but when I plugged the connector in the DRL turned on with no issues.
PS: I currently have DEPO Euro Headlights and running into an issue that causes my DRL to turn off randomly. Seems to fix it when unplug the connector and plug it back in until I turn off the car and turn it back on or mess with the manual switch.

 

[Lil BeanST]

Anyone had a BCM issue that causes headlight specifically parking light issues such and randomly turning off or getting no voltage when there should be voltage to the wire? I cannot find any shorts or damaged wires I was told by a tech at my work that it could be my BCM but figured I'd try to get some more insight form you guys.
So, when I check my driver side wiring it has 12 volts to the wire that powers the DRL's or the Parking + wire, and on Passenger Side I am getting 0 volts through the wire but when I plugged the connector in the DRL turned on with no issues.
PS: I currently have DEPO Euro Headlights and running into an issue that causes my DRL to turn off randomly. Seems to fix it when unplug the connector and plug it back in until I turn off the car and turn it back on or mess with the manual switch.

Just noticed this morning that when the passenger side DRL stops working my passenger side running light for the tail light also goes out
Also purchased a set of halogen low beams and that didnt cause anything to change.

 

[Intuit]

Continued from: https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...ll-the-basics-in-one-thread.20213/post-502337

This is the front parking lamp.



Rear parking lamps.

 

[Intuit]

Just noticed this morning that when the passenger side DRL stops working my passenger side running light for the tail light also goes out
Also purchased a set of halogen low beams and that didnt cause anything to change.

I would unplug both lamp assemblies then back-probe with a volt meter at the BCM (Brown/Yellow and White/Orange) to see whether there is any output.

 

[Intuit]

I assume the license plate light is out also?

 

[Lil BeanST]

I assume the license plate light is out also?

sorry for the super late reply didn't realize i got logged out so wasn't getting any notifications. no the license plate light doesn't go out when the passenger DRL and passenger taillight DRL both go out simultaneously.

 

[Lil BeanST]

I would unplug both lamp assemblies then back-probe with a volt meter at the BCM (Brown/Yellow and White/Orange) to see whether there is any output.

i assume i should be seeing 12 volts at both wires out of the BCM, and i would do this test with the headlights on just not plugged in?

 

[Lil BeanST]

i assume i should be seeing 12 volts at both wires out of the BCM, and i would do this test with the headlights on just not plugged in?

I have fixed the issue, I swapped my wire from the high position in the connector to the low position and no more issues been running flawless for about 2 weeks now, I might run another wire for highs when the parking lights are on, thanks for your help. @Intuit

 

[Intuit]

My Euro lights do not have the parking/marker lights. (which is against code here in the US) So the wire that is ordinarily in that spot, is moved to another, to power the DRL on dimmed mode. (ignore the 'from' and 'to' in the image - use lower left instructions instead)

F26 BTW may occasionally keep the DRL on bright for up to twenty minutes with the engine off. The logic for keeping F26 active after ignition off is unknown to us, but might have something to with engine temperature.

In any event, the DRL are low wattage; that wattage is listed on the back of the housing. IIRC (could be wrong) each one is only 10 Watt which is about 2 Amps combined at 12v for both lights.

There are many circuits that are only active when the ignition is running. Adding a relay to that circuit to power the DRLs is an alternative to F26.

Avoid the temptation to power the DRLs directly (without an add-on relay) unless that circuit is unused and was engineered to support the Amps needed by the DRLs.