Evap purge valve issues

[Theophilus]

Any updates on a possible fix with this issue?

Just started experiencing it about 3 weeks ago, 15' FiST, 33k.

Never once over pumped either.

Still, after filling the car, it gets a rough idle, but then smooths out down the road, only does it after filling up.

Had it stall while idling on it's own a little after pumping, at the parking lot at work a few weeks ago.

 

[Stun a]

Any updates on a possible fix with this issue?

Just started experiencing it about 3 weeks ago, 15' FiST, 33k.

Never once over pumped either.

Still, after filling the car, it gets a rough idle, but then smooths out down the road, only does it after filling up.

Had it stall while idling on it's own a little after pumping, at the parking lot at work a few weeks ago.

The dealer replaced the 'canister purge valve' for me under warranty. I've only had the vehicle a short while, so can't tell if the issue is resolved. Crossing fingers.

I am guessing this is the part they replaced: D2BZ-9C047-E: Not sure why this site says discontinued, but anyway.
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-tube-fuel-feed-d2bz9c047e


Text from my receipt reads (cryptically)

Cause:
12650D EEC SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS - (QUICK TEST) - L
1 D2BZ*9C047*E TUBE - FUEL FEED

12650D45 ENGINE MODULE - DIAGNOSTIC PIN POINT TEST - L

12650D81 PID RECORDER/MONITOR TEST WITH ROAD TEST - L
12650D22 VAPOR MANAGEMENT VALVE / CANISTER PURGE VALVE - REPLACE
(9B325/9C047/9C915/9D289/9G271/9J451) - L

9350B FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST ON VEHICLE DIAGNOSIS -L
12650DX1 EEC SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS (QUICK TEST) - L

FC: D50 42
PART# D2BZ*9C047*E

 

[Stun a]

Got my fist back. Filled up for the first time today and tested to see if it would stall. Previously it was a 100% repeatable issue. This time, no stalling or hiccup whatsoever. Yahoo!! Only took two and a half years.

If you experience this issue, where the engine stumbles and stalls while idling immediately after filling with fuel, this is your fix. ChaNge the purge valve and feed tubes that are attached to it and cannot he removed. You have to replace all of it as an assembly.

 

[enderw88]

Gave up. I think you need an assembly with those hoses pre attached at the factory

I have just gotten a P144A on a 2015 FiST. Found the same issue when I ordered the purge valve and tried to replace it, those hoses will not budge. The only way I have come up with to remove the hoses is to cut out the valve and carefully remove the barbs from inside the hoses then hope the new part will seal in. Too risky for my Daily Driver. I can't even find part numbers to the hoses the should be replaced at the same time.

 

[enderw88]

I fixed my purge valve today. I reused the original hoses. Getting them off is a bit traumatic.

1. Remove intake hose. This is mostly for accessibility, if you have an extra wrist or rubber arms you don't need to do this.
2. Remove the entire purge valve hose assembly. There are four connectors that are are relatively easy to get off.
3. With the entire purge valve hose assembly out of the car use a hack saw blade to cut the nipples off the purge valve. The hard plastic nipples will stay in the hoses.
4. Use a pair of vice grips to crush the nipples inside the hoses. Leave the vice grips open to about 1/4 of an inch, you are just trying to break the plastics, not destroy the hoses.
5. Use some needle nose pliers to pull out the plastic pieces.
6. Get the new valve ready to install.
7. Use a heat gun to warm the hard plastic hoses, be careful here, just gently soften them.
8. With the hose warm, insert the new valve.
9. Reinstall the assembly.

If you are clumsy with the heat gun, you will need to replace the vacuum hose you destroyed.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

My 6 month old car does this every fill up smh

 

[enderw88]

My 6 month old car does this every fill up smh

You may be over filling.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

It just started this week. And it does it at any station. The pump stops itself not me

 

[Stun a]

Symptom of bad purge valve. Dealer replaced mine under warranty and problem definitely cured.

 

[Taxi.driver]

Thats what I needed. Engine stalled only a few random times at idle. But only issue I have now is the CEL.

Since purge valve is pretty cheap it doesn’t hurt to swap it.

 

[Maxpowa]

Update: So I have a new 2017 FiST after owning a 2015 that had this problem early-on, and guess what? This one started to stumble as well. I thought for a second and wondered if it wasn't the car, but my fueling habits. I always stopped the pump on the first click and let the nozzle sit for at least 15-20 seconds.

I began thinking that maybe, even thought the pump clicks off, it's still allowing too much fuel into the tank. I decided at that point that I'd only add $25 of fuel from 1/4 tank and bypass the auto shut-off on the pump completely. 3 months later, no stumble.

Long story short, I don't think we can rely on the fuel pump's auto shut-off to be accurate enough to prevent over filling.

 

[VuDoo]

Time to revive the thread. I just got the P144A code. I don't have a check engine light on, just the code. I have always had the stumbling often after a fill-up, but never completely stalled. I just ordered a new valve today and I will test to see if just stopping when the pump stops will work. I usually round off to the nearest quarter, so not very much.

I am wondering if anyone who has replaced just the valve has just used worm clamps, or something similar for the hoses? Has anyone tried to great the hose to remove it from the valve? I believe Ford just used the heat seal to save on cost rather than using a clamp, so i don't think it would be much of an issue

 

[enderw88]

Time to revive the thread. I just got the P144A code. I don't have a check engine light on, just the code. I have always had the stumbling often after a fill-up, but never completely stalled. I just ordered a new valve today and I will test to see if just stopping when the pump stops will work. I usually round off to the nearest quarter, so not very much.

I am wondering if anyone who has replaced just the valve has just used worm clamps, or something similar for the hoses? Has anyone tried to great the hose to remove it from the valve? I believe Ford just used the heat seal to save on cost rather than using a clamp, so i don't think it would be much of an issue

I posted pretty detailed instructions on doing exactly what you are talking about.

 

[VuDoo]

I posted pretty detailed instructions on doing exactly what you are talking about.

I did see your post and it is what made me go ahead and purchase the $12 part vs the $60 for the full assembly. I was just wondering if heating the hose to remove it from the valve rather than cutting off the barbs and crushing the tube to get it out the rest of the barb would be any easier. Then all you would have to do is get 2 small clamps and reattach. Just seems easier to replace this part down the road later on if it goes out again.

 

[enderw88]

I did see your post and it is what made me go ahead and purchase the $12 part vs the $60 for the full assembly. I was just wondering if heating the hose to remove it from the valve rather than cutting off the barbs and crushing the tube to get it out the rest of the barb would be any easier. Then all you would have to do is get 2 small clamps and reattach. Just seems easier to replace this part down the road later on if it goes out again.

Oh, I see your question. I thought about heating the tubes to pull the barbs, but was more concerned about destroying the tubing than the barbs. I think if you heat up the tubing to pull the barbs out you will pull apart the tubing and make it useless. Interested to hear how you do it.

 

[The_Ryan]

Update: So I have a new 2017 FiST after owning a 2015 that had this problem early-on, and guess what? This one started to stumble as well. I thought for a second and wondered if it wasn't the car, but my fueling habits. I always stopped the pump on the first click and let the nozzle sit for at least 15-20 seconds.

I began thinking that maybe, even thought the pump clicks off, it's still allowing too much fuel into the tank. I decided at that point that I'd only add $25 of fuel from 1/4 tank and bypass the auto shut-off on the pump completely. 3 months later, no stumble.

Long story short, I don't think we can rely on the fuel pump's auto shut-off to be accurate enough to prevent over filling.

This may be a stupid question, but are you getting the nozzle all the way in? I know on some nozzles, for me, it's not as obvious that it's not all the way in.

 

[apex1]

I have had this issue with my 2017 and I always let the pump click off, then removed it. Since I went to an E30 tune I no longer rely on the pump clicking off. I just add the E85 and 93 in the ratio for the amount I want in the tank, and the problem has disappeared. It has nothing to do with the tune; rather, I think I am just not filling up quite as far and this has not been a problem anymore.

 

[AzNightmare]

Bump.

My 3 year warranty is ending this coming October, so I want to get this fixed soon.
This sounds like too much of a hassle for a DIY job, especially if I can get it covered under warranty.

Unfortunately, my car is almost FBO and tuned. I plan to uninstall my AP, just in case they blame it on my tune or something.

Will they need to remove my bumper to do the repair? I have a custom splitter installed and if they are touching my bumper, I'll have to do some work before I take it in.
Last time I let a shop touch my car, they ended up breaking things they didn't understand how to properly disassemble.

 

[Garytdi]

My FiST has a Mountune tune on it and the dealer just replaced this purge valve for me today under warranty and I have over 40k miles. I had a P0456 CEL code though, not sure I’d that made a difference. I also registered my tune with Ford so as not to have any trouble with them. I’ll need to drive for a week to see if the CEL comes back. I wasn’t having stalling issues though, just the CEL.

 

[HardBoiledEgg]

Bringing this back again cause my car went from throwing the code once every other month to coming back every couple days. Now this is something I need to fix


Problem is the "fix" is so unreliable. I've read so many threads and it's a 50/50 fix. Who has had luck on a 16+?