Fiesta ST Downpipe Thread

[RAAMaudio]

Ok, looking at the picture again I can see it looks like 3" piping, I do not like how it is necked down, not a good way to do it. On mine I fit the pipe all the way into the turbo side of the flange, welded it on the other side of the flange, then used a small ball peen hammer to flare it to the opening size which is closer to 3.5 and used a die grinder to smooth it. That in effect is necked down but in a better flowing way.

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Wrapping helps a great deal with heat under the hood and near the shifter cables, etc....

I also covered the brake lines, cables, steering rack, and other parts with either fiberglass fabric/foil or fiberglass mat/foil heat wrap material.

My intake is also wrapped with the fabric foil, then fiberglass mat foil and again with the fabric foil.

Next I am looking for a blanket for the EFR turbo, only one found so far is $219, ouch!

 

[Izzy]

i'm not catted and in Houston too.

Going back to stock every time I head over to get it inspected is just too much work!!

 

[Svvift]

Going back to stock every time I head over to get it inspected is just too much work!!

most places in houston do not do the visual or sniffer test, so as long as you aren't throwing a code for it, you should theoretically be good.

 

[Izzy]

most places in houston do not do the visual or sniffer test, so as long as you aren't throwing a code for it, you should theoretically be good.

Damn it...the places I've been to (3 so far) always does sniffer test. That's the only reason I purchased the catted pipe...Where do you take yours? Are you in Harris County?

 

[Svvift]

Damn it...the places I've been to (3 so far) always does sniffer test. That's the only reason I purchased the catted pipe...Where do you take yours? Are you in Harris County?

yep. The last place i took my svt focus (hasn't had a cat in 5 years) got shut down so i tried a new place and it passed. just ran the codes, checked the lights, didn't even check the brakes.


but i got a buddy who has a hook up that i will be using from now on.


the no-name mom and pops rarely do the sniffer. esp the ones in "rougher" parts of town.

 

[Dylanc]

Ok, looking at the picture again I can see it looks like 3" piping, I do not like how it is necked down, not a good way to do it. On mine I fit the pipe all the way into the turbo side of the flange, welded it on the other side of the flange, then used a small ball peen hammer to flare it to the opening size which is closer to 3.5 and used a die grinder to smooth it. That in effect is necked down but in a better flowing way.

---------------

Wrapping helps a great deal with heat under the hood and near the shifter cables, etc....

I also covered the brake lines, cables, steering rack, and other parts with either fiberglass fabric/foil or fiberglass mat/foil heat wrap material.

My intake is also wrapped with the fabric foil, then fiberglass mat foil and again with the fabric foil.

Next I am looking for a blanket for the EFR turbo, only one found so far is $219, ouch!

Ahh yea for what the price was it's surprisingly decent. You'd have to see it in person. Though I do agree with you. Yea I'll have to pick up some wrap for the install.

 

[RAAMaudio]

A catted pipe still might not pass the sniffer test in some places so watch for that.

When I bought my car last year in the spring I had it delivered to the NV boarder and then my wife drove it to Carson City, I drove it about 5 miles, put it in the trailer, hauled it to Utah, that way I did not have to pay CA sales tax and I happened to be there with the trailer, in my county, no inspections and 5.9% tax. I was looking for a way to register it and our dually and big trailer while traveling and a buddy told me about setting up a very low cost LLC in Montana so I did it then found out no sales tax at all and no inspections

He has around 30 cars and trucks registered there but lives part time in UT and part time in NV and his older cars have very modest cost lifetime registration as it is an option there as well.

Worth looking into for some, I have been through the modded car wringer in CA, a royal pain in the arse and my turbo charged car did pass the sniffer test but I still had to go back to stock, go see an inspector, then a judge, pay a pretty big fine, then put the turbo back on of course....if it had MT plates I could of skipped all that.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Just found this and talked to the company owner, I might be able fit a manifold/turbo blanket later on but this will help for now.

EFR turbo blanket, $145 -165 black or basalt and getting 5% off

 

[Izzy]

Looks promising

 

[Svvift]

me likey. i want a blanket to help with temps.

 

[Perfblue15]

I'm still on the fence about wrapping my atp downpipe as well, since I'm going to remove it and get the flange changed to 3 inch, does the wrap help that much with heat under the hood?

 

[Izzy]

I'm still on the fence about wrapping my atp downpipe as well, since I'm going to remove it and get the flange changed to 3 inch, does the wrap help that much with heat under the hood?

Yes...do it!!

 

[Coolnezzz]

Anyone happen to run the Mountune down pipe with the Injen cat-back? I know that the Injen cat-back bolts up to the stock down pipe and the Mountune down pipe bolts up to the stock cat-back so I'm fairly sure they will mate up to each other fine, was just wondering if anyone else is running this combo and how they like it. I purchased the down pipe a couple of months ago but have been waiting pick up the rest of the exhaust (and install it all) until I received my year-end bonus which is this coming week. I like the sound if the Injen but hate the huge single-tip look, I wish it came in a dual tip to match the stock look but for the price and sound it's pretty sweet in my opinion. I was also considering the MBRP cat-back but the 2.25" inner diameter of the inlet has dissuaded me from going that route since I don't feel like spending any more on fabrication work to enlarge it, otherwise the MBRP is right up my alley sound-wise.

 

[redsilvy]

Anyone happen to run the Mountune down pipe with the Injen cat-back? I know that the Injen cat-back bolts up to the stock down pipe and the Mountune down pipe bolts up to the stock cat-back so I'm fairly sure they will mate up to each other fine, was just wondering if anyone else is running this combo and how they like it. I purchased the down pipe a couple of months ago but have been waiting pick up the rest of the exhaust (and install it all) until I received my year-end bonus which is this coming week. I like the sound if the Injen but hate the huge single-tip look, I wish it came in a dual tip to match the stock look but for the price and sound it's pretty sweet in my opinion. I was also considering the MBRP cat-back but the 2.25" inner diameter of the inlet has dissuaded me from going that route since I don't feel like spending any more on fabrication work to enlarge it, otherwise the MBRP is right up my alley sound-wise.

I dont have the mountune DP but I have the ATP down pipe and it matches up with the Injen exhaust perfectly when I put it on. And once the exhaust is on the car the tip actually looks really small.

 

[GateCityRadio]

I found a high flow 100cel catted downpipe for $279.99. Anyone else come across this one? The catless one is $179.99. These are definitely the best prices I've seen thus far. I was planning to do the catted downpipe and a straight pipe setup minus the muffler and resonator but drone is a concern. I really cannot justify the high costs of some of the downpipes on the market right now.

http://www.deporacing.us/shop/ford/ford-fiesta-st-3-downpipe-hi-flow-cat-100-cel/

Wow dang good price and the quality looks good. Ill wait for you or others to guinea pig and confirm its good before i buy tho.

I'm going to order the catted one to see how it does. We shall see.

 

[Kip2MyLou]

I'm going to order the catted one to see how it does. We shall see.

Lets us know. Seems like a great product. I'll be going catted somewhere down the line so this really catches my eye.

 

[GateCityRadio]

I found a high flow 100cel catted downpipe for $279.99. Anyone else come across this one? The catless one is $179.99. These are definitely the best prices I've seen thus far. I was planning to do the catted downpipe and a straight pipe setup minus the muffler and resonator but drone is a concern. I really cannot justify the high costs of some of the downpipes on the market right now.

http://www.deporacing.us/shop/ford/ford-fiesta-st-3-downpipe-hi-flow-cat-100-cel/

Wow dang good price and the quality looks good. Ill wait for you or others to guinea pig and confirm its good before i buy tho.

Lets us know. Seems like a great product. I'll be going catted somewhere down the line so this really catches my eye.

My main concern is the quality of the cat and how well the flex section holds up. I live in NC and we don't do the sniffer test so it shouldn't be a big deal if the cat isn't top notch, just as long as its flows better and its there so the inspector can see it. The tune will take care of the code.

 

[Kip2MyLou]

My main concern is the quality of the cat and how well the flex section holds up. I live in NC and we don't do the sniffer test so it shouldn't be a big deal if the cat isn't top notch, just as long as its flows better and its there so the inspector can see it. The tune will take care of the code.

I just don't want that has smell and I live in md so it has to look somewhat non-aftermarket. Ha.

 

[boostyd]

For those wondering about the Depo Racing DP's I just got a new 15 ST and I just installed the Depo Racing downpipe today minus the meow box. The pipe is built well, fit like a glove and is all stainless. The welds look better than some of the other so called "better" DP's. To each his own but I could care less what company builds my DP as its an exhaust pipe, not flux capacitor ;-) Common sense says this cheap 3" should be good for way more than this little turbo (and probably upto at GT2554) could ever put out, especially when compared the stock DP. It didn't take long to install either (2Hrs), everyone on here makes it out to be this crazy involved process. You don't need to take the cowl off or battery or manifold heat shield either, just the air intake to the airbox was all I needed to get a ton of room. Get a good O2 socket and make sure everything is straight before you go for it with a ratchet. Stock DP comes out the bottom no problem just get it rotated and pushed up under the 2 coolant hoses then pull the flex section over the steering rack and its out. Use copper anti-seize on all the exhaust bolts if you ever want to get them out in one piece again. Like another guy that did it this way said: O2's first, then stock DP heat sheild then unbolt everything and let the finagling begin! Ramps seem to be all you need for this car so it makes it real easy! Upon installation re-tighten top DP bolt first then clockwise onto the other two all to 18ft/lbs in that order for no leaks. This upgrade alone made the car 10 times more fun to drive with the boost coming on way earlier with excellent midrange on a stock tune, not too mention the cool sounds it now makes. Time for a bigger IC and a tune next! For those on the fence for a DIY DP install, go for it (from a guy who hates to work on things anymore), just take your time and don't believe everything you read on the Internet. Common sense goes a long way these days! Sorry for the in-post install guide, I just wanted to outline my much easier process for a DP install for those thinking its tough and provide my feedback for the cheap knock off DP haha..

 

[Kip2MyLou]

For those wondering about the Depo Racing DP's I just got a new 15 ST and I just installed the Depo Racing downpipe today minus the meow box. The pipe is built well, fit like a glove and is all stainless. The welds look better than some of the other so called "better" DP's. To each his own but I could care less what company builds my DP as its an exhaust pipe, not flux capacitor ;-) Common sense says this cheap 3" should be good for way more than this little turbo (and probably upto at GT2554) could ever put out, especially when compared the stock DP. It didn't take long to install either (2Hrs), everyone on here makes it out to be this crazy involved process. You don't need to take the cowl off or battery or manifold heat shield either, just the air intake to the airbox was all I needed to get a ton of room. Get a good O2 socket and make sure everything is straight before you go for it with a ratchet. Stock DP comes out the bottom no problem just get it rotated and pushed up under the 2 coolant hoses then pull the flex section over the steering rack and its out. Use copper anti-seize on all the exhaust bolts if you ever want to get them out in one piece again. Like another guy that did it this way said: O2's first, then stock DP heat sheild then unbolt everything and let the finagling begin! Ramps seem to be all you need for this car so it makes it real easy! Upon installation re-tighten top DP bolt first then clockwise onto the other two all to 18ft/lbs in that order for no leaks. This upgrade alone made the car 10 times more fun to drive with the boost coming on way earlier with excellent midrange on a stock tune, not too mention the cool sounds it now makes. Time for a bigger IC and a tune next! For those on the fence for a DIY DP install, go for it (from a guy who hates to work on things anymore), just take your time and don't believe everything you read on the Internet. Common sense goes a long way these days! Sorry for the in-post install guide, I just wanted to outline my much easier process for a DP install for those thinking its tough and provide my feedback for the cheap knock off DP haha..

Is it a full 3'' inch the whole way or 3'' to 2.5''? I ask because I have the cobb exhaust which is 2.5