I know that there are several posts about this, but I wanted to share my review if it helps anyone at all.
As soon as I fired the car up after the install, I could tell it was different. The vibration isn't bad, but it's definitely noticeable... especially during a cold start. I get a little more vibration as well when accelerating, but wow, it's worth it. The RMM made a huge difference and I wouldn't say that these had the same effect, but the car feels SOLID. I didn't really notice any slop before install, but wow, things are TIGHT now. You can feel it on accel/decel, braking and steering. It all just feels more connected and it's great. I'm hoping some of the vibration goes away as the mounts break in a little, but they're the black series, so I don't know that they will. Either way, I'm happy.
If you're on the fence about doing this, I highly recommend it. It's so cheap to get the two mounts and it makes the FiST feel that much more connected.
Here's the summary of what I did and some tips that could have helped me.
I bought the Powerflex black inserts for the trans and passenger side with the new ARP bolt.
It took me about ~2.5 hours to do the job. I would really recommend using a 1/2" ratchet as the 3/8"s really made me work to get everything off. I jacked up the driver's side of the car, supported it with a jackstand and then used the factory jack and a block of wood to hold the motor in place. Just enough so that it makes contact with the oil pan, but not a lot of pressure.
Trans side:
Pretty straight forward. Just take off the intake, ECU connectors, battery and battery tray and you've got access. I used a pair of vice grips to squeeze the locking tab into the powerflex mount after I had installed it into the motor mount.
Pass side:
Pretty straight forward as well. Take the head light off (optional, but gives you more room) and then move the coolant reservoir out of the way. I didn't disconnect any lines, just swung it over and out of the way. Take the three 18mm nuts off of the mount and then the 3 16mm bolts that hold it to the chassis. Wait until the mount is out of the car to do the mount's center bolt. Using a 21mm wrench and an 18mm socket, remove the bolt and replace it with the ARP bolt. The one I got from Whoosh was a 15mm star head and my normal sockets wouldn't fit so I had to take a quick trip to get the right socket. No big deal, but do this before you start if you can't take a break to go get a tool.
Sliding in the insert was a total pain. It helps to use a wrench on one side to twist and bend the mount a little bit as you push the insert in. I wound up using the handle of a wrench to give myself my leverage as there was no way I could do it by hand. Just go side by side, mm by mm. I used a zip tie instead of the little rubber band provided.
That's basically it. I hope this helps anyone if they're on the fence about doing these mounts. It's a cheap way to make the car feel even more connected.
As soon as I fired the car up after the install, I could tell it was different. The vibration isn't bad, but it's definitely noticeable... especially during a cold start. I get a little more vibration as well when accelerating, but wow, it's worth it. The RMM made a huge difference and I wouldn't say that these had the same effect, but the car feels SOLID. I didn't really notice any slop before install, but wow, things are TIGHT now. You can feel it on accel/decel, braking and steering. It all just feels more connected and it's great. I'm hoping some of the vibration goes away as the mounts break in a little, but they're the black series, so I don't know that they will. Either way, I'm happy.
If you're on the fence about doing this, I highly recommend it. It's so cheap to get the two mounts and it makes the FiST feel that much more connected.
Here's the summary of what I did and some tips that could have helped me.
I bought the Powerflex black inserts for the trans and passenger side with the new ARP bolt.
It took me about ~2.5 hours to do the job. I would really recommend using a 1/2" ratchet as the 3/8"s really made me work to get everything off. I jacked up the driver's side of the car, supported it with a jackstand and then used the factory jack and a block of wood to hold the motor in place. Just enough so that it makes contact with the oil pan, but not a lot of pressure.
Trans side:
Pretty straight forward. Just take off the intake, ECU connectors, battery and battery tray and you've got access. I used a pair of vice grips to squeeze the locking tab into the powerflex mount after I had installed it into the motor mount.
Pass side:
Pretty straight forward as well. Take the head light off (optional, but gives you more room) and then move the coolant reservoir out of the way. I didn't disconnect any lines, just swung it over and out of the way. Take the three 18mm nuts off of the mount and then the 3 16mm bolts that hold it to the chassis. Wait until the mount is out of the car to do the mount's center bolt. Using a 21mm wrench and an 18mm socket, remove the bolt and replace it with the ARP bolt. The one I got from Whoosh was a 15mm star head and my normal sockets wouldn't fit so I had to take a quick trip to get the right socket. No big deal, but do this before you start if you can't take a break to go get a tool.
Sliding in the insert was a total pain. It helps to use a wrench on one side to twist and bend the mount a little bit as you push the insert in. I wound up using the handle of a wrench to give myself my leverage as there was no way I could do it by hand. Just go side by side, mm by mm. I used a zip tie instead of the little rubber band provided.
That's basically it. I hope this helps anyone if they're on the fence about doing these mounts. It's a cheap way to make the car feel even more connected.