Depends - it’s hard to find parts to repair a CV axle and has been that way since the late 90’s. You can get replacement boots if you find a torn one, but if it’s making noise, it’s probably past that point and the tripod bearings are shot. Replacement axles are so cheap these days you usually end up replacing the whole CV axle.
OEM are $150 for the passenger, $97 for the drivers side. Aftermarket at RockAuto can be had for $85-90. You’d be hard pressed to find a full replacement bearing set for that price if you can even locate one (neither dealer or aftermarket stock them, you’d have to find individual bearings).
https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2016-f...-gas/front-drive-axle--axle-shafts-and-joints
Make sure you have the right size socket for the axle nut, remove the staked divot with the screwdriver/punch and hammer, and preferably an impact gun to remove it (electric is fine), or else you’ll need to find a way to brace the hub from spinning and use a big honking breaker bar (I just looked it up and axle nut torque is apparently 188 ft-lbs so you'll also need a very large torquewrench and a brace) Get a long metal bar and drill two holes for two of the wheel studs, then brace it on the ground.
The axle nuts, strut bolts (if you separate the top), pinch bolts (if you separate the balljoint instead) and the bolts on the mid-shaft (if doing the passenger side) all should be replaced.
The service manual says you should remove the pinch bolts at the balljoint which makes it easier to get the driveshaft out and will preserve the alignment, but you'll need a balljoint separator, which can be had cheaply
If you don't have one, technically you can unbolt the strut from the steering knuckle instead, but it's more awkward trying to get the axle out. If you do that, make sharpie or paint pen marks around the bolts and across the strut where it interfaces with the steering knuckle so you can put it back in the correct place and not have to worry about realigning the car. There’s not enough play or adjustability to put camber out of spec, though it may change slightly - but a little shift in the strut attachment can throw off the toe-in. Realigning toe is not difficult, but it is extra work if you’re worried about time. Most of this info is probably in that video linked above.
You if the axle is all you’re doing, you can probably swap one out in a couple hours if you have all the right tools and replacement hardware.