Just hit 60K. Is this everything that needs to be done?

[XanRules]

Like the title says, I just rolled over 60k, which means by the end of the year I'm gonna do a big service. Here's what I plan to do, let me know if I'm missing anything.

Oil and filter change, obv
Trans fluid change
Clean valves with something like this: https://www.crcindustries.com/gdi/
Front and rear brakes: pads, rotors, and new fluids, maybe SS lines if they're in the budget.
HPFP Cam Bucket (https://www.fiestastforum.com/threa...-you-may-need-a-cam-bucket-replacement.17465/)

Anything else I am missing or should be aware of? The car has no issues that I am aware of, and I clean the air filter every oil change and replace the cabin air filter yearly, which is why those aren't on the above list, also I did my spark plugs at 50k.

This is just the first time I've ever gotten a new car to 60k without a drunk driver killing it (I am 0 for 2 on that front) and want to make sure I do everything right to get another 60k out of it.

Thanks!

 

[Capri to ST]

I would flush the clutch fluid, that's a neglected service, and also replace the coolant, which is recommended to be done every 3 years.

 

[XanRules]

I would flush the clutch fluid, that's a neglected service, and also replace the coolant, which is recommended to be done every 3 years.

Thanks! I knew the clutch fluid shared a reservoir with the brake fluid but didn't realize it was a separate procedure. Assuming I have the ability to put the car up on a lift and will have help, are there any specific tools, etc I will need in order to flush/bleed/etc the clutch?

Good call on the coolant, too. Thank you! I stay on top of my oil, spark plug, filter, etc changes, but a lot of the rest of this stuff is new to me after a decade plus of driving high-mileage Japanese cars and just replacing stuff when it inevitably breaks. With Black Friday coming up it feels like the right time to start cobbling parts together to have a big maintenance day.

 

[Capri to ST]

Assuming I have the ability to put the car up on a lift and will have help, are there any specific tools, etc I will need in order to flush/bleed/etc the clutch?

I can't help you there, I don't know how to do it, I just know it's supposed to be done.
A mechanic has done it for me. I get the brakes bled every two years, and the clutch every four, my car will be 8 years old next summer and it will be time to have the clutch fluid bled again.

 

[FiestaSTdude]

Thanks! I knew the clutch fluid shared a reservoir with the brake fluid but didn't realize it was a separate procedure. Assuming I have the ability to put the car up on a lift and will have help, are there any specific tools, etc I will need in order to flush/bleed/etc the clutch?

Good call on the coolant, too. Thank you! I stay on top of my oil, spark plug, filter, etc changes, but a lot of the rest of this stuff is new to me after a decade plus of driving high-mileage Japanese cars and just replacing stuff when it inevitably breaks. With Black Friday coming up it feels like the right time to start cobbling parts together to have a big maintenance day.

https://www.fiestastforum.com/threads/clutch-bleeding-procedure.29184/
Here’s a thread outlining how to do it and what you need.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Your factory brakes lasted 60K miles, or were they done once already?

 

[XanRules]

Your factory brakes lasted 60K miles, or were they done once already?

Fronts done at 30k, rears lasted 60k. Each still has about 20-25% life per last time I got the tires rotated and got everything inspected, which I do every six months.

 

[XanRules]

Don't mind me here, just making a little shopping list for myself. Feel free to chime in if I've accidentally decided to purchase something that sucks. This is a street-only car for the foreseeable future.

Oil and filter, same as usual
Brakes and Rotors - Centric 120 and Posi Quiet (this is what I used last time, liked 'em fine and they're cheap at TireRack and on RockAuto)
Clutch/ Brake Fluid - ATE DOT 5.1, 2.5L (Used ATE in most of my previous cars, liked it just fine)
Trans Fluid - BG Synchro Shift II, 2 bottles (this is what I used last time, liked it fine, super cheap at the local Chevy dealer oddly enough)
Coolant - Motorcraft Yellow stuff or equivalent

 

[foodtruck]

Couple of other things that started failing on me around the same mileage

1) Transmission mounts
2) Accessory tensioner/idler pulleys (started rattling)

 

[M-Sport fan]

I would say to consider the lower viscosity Ate SL.6 over their (slightly lower viscosity than regular or racing DOT4s) 5.1.
But it does not get crazy cold where you are, which is the determinant factor in big ABS/traction control, ECS system performance differences.

At higher ambient temps, the viscosity differences make little to no difference in those systems' performance.

 

[XanRules]

Couple of other things that started failing on me around the same mileage

1) Transmission mounts
2) Accessory tensioner/idler pulleys (started rattling)

Transmission mounts have been replaced with PowerFlex and seem fine, but I'll check them. I will also check the pulleys. Thanks!

I would say to consider the lower viscosity Ate SL.6 over their (slightly lower viscosity than regular or racing DOT4s) 5.1.
But it does not get crazy cold where you are, which is the determinant factor in big ABS/traction control, ECS system performance differences.

At higher ambient temps, the viscosity differences make little to no difference in those systems' performance.

Thanks - I somehow missed that ATE does make a Low Viscosity DOT4, it's just spelled "viskosity" because they're German so it wasn't showing up in my searches. Their customer service sent me an email pointing me in that direction as well.

 

[XanRules]

Alright, bumping this one up. Centric appears to have stopped making brakes for this car as all the parts are on clearance or out of stock, everywhere. There is one "Preferred Axle Pack" of the 120 front/125 rear rotors and posi-quiet pads for sale at Summit Racing for $265. However, the PowerStop Z26 kit is $15 more - does anyone have any experience with this kit? There's one thread where someone says they are super noisy and a response says they are not. My understanding is that the Z26 kit is the same as the Z23 but with better hardware. They get good reviews online but I'm torn on the wisdom of drilled/slotted rotors on a street car.

 

[rallytaff]

I'm more than happy with mine and yes, I would buy the kit again.

 

[XanRules]

Thank you! Also, what in the world is the brake/clutch fluid capacity? I am reading everything from 500ml to 1.25L.

 

[Intuit]

If we're going to start mentioning everything that ever went wrong with any car here, we're going to make him quite paranoid and unable to just, enjoy the vehicle.

If your engine programming and hardware are stock, I wouldn't worry about a valve cleaning... ever.

Fronts done at 30k, rears lasted 60k. Each still has about 20-25% life per last time I got the tires rotated and got everything inspected, which I do every six months.

Man, my rears are the first to go LoL. (it's the torque vectoring and stability control nannies)

.

 

[XanRules]

I'm going to skip the cam bucket for the above reason. It's only a $28 part but I'm not having any issues that suggest there's anything wrong with it and I'd rather not dick around with anything involving the HPFP unless I have to.