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M2-Motoring fender flare interest/possible group buy!
- Thread starter M2-Motoring
- Start date
- Messages
- 668
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- 130
If you don't I was thinking of running something like this, since the weight dist. is 60/40, your front lip with a splitter and wheel deflectors would both look awesome and hopefully help the car 
just split balling...
If your curious about the mustang build...http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123860&page=8
just split balling...
If your curious about the mustang build...http://www.s197forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123860&page=8
I have done similar forward tilted radiator, hood ducting, smaller splitter and front of tire covers on a C5 Z06 I had a C6 World Challenge body built for it, it needed less splitter and tire covers due to being a better aero shaped car.
I built this for street/autocross/time trial and audio competition and it was great at all three. It was supercharged at the time but I have a big turbo kit I was building for it, vented hood, forward radiator, and a few more things in the works when I decided to build a race vette instead.
It had air deflector, sorry not showing up well, in front of the tires shaped to the fender openings, just like the C6 Z06 Vettes came with which were far out enough to cover the 265 wide race tires. The splitter was sized for the best downforce but not to low for the street, suspension height was optimal geometry, just a bit lower and the car was much slower, I had drawn it out in full scale on the shop wall to really get a solid feel for just how much small changes would make. To lower the chassis more would require moving all the inboard suspension pickup points higher to keep the geometry correct. It it was a pure race car the splitter would be a great deal lower and rear diffuser much bigger and not have an audiophile competition sound system nor hit 138.4db on music It was fast enough to take 2nd place at a Redline Time Attack race at MMP and would of won the second day if not for a bad tune and blown engine.
No part of the car done purely for looks, it was built to perform and did so very well in all aspects.
I built this for street/autocross/time trial and audio competition and it was great at all three. It was supercharged at the time but I have a big turbo kit I was building for it, vented hood, forward radiator, and a few more things in the works when I decided to build a race vette instead.
It had air deflector, sorry not showing up well, in front of the tires shaped to the fender openings, just like the C6 Z06 Vettes came with which were far out enough to cover the 265 wide race tires. The splitter was sized for the best downforce but not to low for the street, suspension height was optimal geometry, just a bit lower and the car was much slower, I had drawn it out in full scale on the shop wall to really get a solid feel for just how much small changes would make. To lower the chassis more would require moving all the inboard suspension pickup points higher to keep the geometry correct. It it was a pure race car the splitter would be a great deal lower and rear diffuser much bigger and not have an audiophile competition sound system nor hit 138.4db on music
It was fast enough to take 2nd place at a Redline Time Attack race at MMP and would of won the second day if not for a bad tune and blown engine.
No part of the car done purely for looks, it was built to perform and did so very well in all aspects.
Thread Starter
#32
All set and done the wheel setup was a 17x8 -5. it was running a 25mm spacer from H&R. so the original wheel was a 17x8 +20.
yes yes before all you start verbally jump in and go "WHY DIDN'T YOU RUN 9" wide etc etc etc. " Long story short, it was a very fast time line build and no wheel company i work with could have built something fast enough. Rotiform has always been great to me and this was a quick "get it done" sort of thing. Trust me, I would have loved to get a custom built set of 3 pc wheels if time weren't a factor lol.
All my cars in the past that have any widebody or flare work have used multipiece wheels as we would be ordering the wheels during the summer. I didn't get to touch this car until mid september. with sema 6 weeks away lol. it's all good it was fun but tiring. =)
yes yes before all you start verbally jump in and go "WHY DIDN'T YOU RUN 9" wide etc etc etc. " Long story short, it was a very fast time line build and no wheel company i work with could have built something fast enough. Rotiform has always been great to me and this was a quick "get it done" sort of thing. Trust me, I would have loved to get a custom built set of 3 pc wheels if time weren't a factor lol.
All my cars in the past that have any widebody or flare work have used multipiece wheels as we would be ordering the wheels during the summer. I didn't get to touch this car until mid september. with sema 6 weeks away lol. it's all good it was fun but tiring. =)
Stock fender 9" wide wheel issues, I have 15x9 +35mm all around so the same things except 1" gained on the top of the rim in 17's(as well as 1" on the bottom)
With flares you still need to look at this from a perspective of properly setting up the car as running offsets pushing the wheels way out are detrimental to handling, add a great deal of stress to the wheel hubs, bearings, ball joints, inner pickup points, etc....
On my particular car I have BC Race spec coilovers, lowered for best handling which means not real low to maintain correct geometry.
Front inner clearance with 225/45/15 RA1 track tires requires a 2mm spacer, with the same size in Rival S which has a rim protector rib requires a 5mm spacer.
Front outer clearance required rolling and pulling the fenders a fair amount. they can be moved even more by loosening bolts as I had to do when fitting exceptionally wide Hoosier race tires labeled at 225 but were more likely 240mm wide.
Rear inner clearance, plenty of room.
Rear outer clearance, BIG issues, must increase negative camber to -1.9 degrees and roll and pull fenders as far as possible, the RA1 and Rival S barely fit, the Hoosiers though labeled in 225 would not fit under them.
A 15x8 or 17x8 +35mm should be a pretty good fit and not add horribly to the scrub radius.
The same size in +25mm may not fit in the rear but more important not good for the front geometry.
---------
Back to running flares, it is best to run wider wheels with better offsets than narrower ones with the wrong offsets for the chassis design. If you go to 17's the tires get far to tall quickly if you run them wider than about a 215 and add more weight as well as cost and highly stretched tires make look cool but are detrimental in several ways for those into handling first, looks second.
If you run 16's there are not many tires available nor wheels unfortunately as a great size for the car.
With 15's, 4x100, there are some great wheels in 15x8 and 9" wide and soon some 10 and 11" wide ones available for very reasonable cost. Again finding tires is the hard part, there is one 235 I am aware of, I need to double check the make and model of it. In race tires you can go as wide as 275mm!
-------------------
Of course for those more into style that how the car actually drives do as you please, for those of us more into driving than appearance we have only so many options available and I will help anyone that asks, which I have done quite a bit of, to pick the best for their purpose.
Rick
With flares you still need to look at this from a perspective of properly setting up the car as running offsets pushing the wheels way out are detrimental to handling, add a great deal of stress to the wheel hubs, bearings, ball joints, inner pickup points, etc....
On my particular car I have BC Race spec coilovers, lowered for best handling which means not real low to maintain correct geometry.
Front inner clearance with 225/45/15 RA1 track tires requires a 2mm spacer, with the same size in Rival S which has a rim protector rib requires a 5mm spacer.
Front outer clearance required rolling and pulling the fenders a fair amount. they can be moved even more by loosening bolts as I had to do when fitting exceptionally wide Hoosier race tires labeled at 225 but were more likely 240mm wide.
Rear inner clearance, plenty of room.
Rear outer clearance, BIG issues, must increase negative camber to -1.9 degrees and roll and pull fenders as far as possible, the RA1 and Rival S barely fit, the Hoosiers though labeled in 225 would not fit under them.
A 15x8 or 17x8 +35mm should be a pretty good fit and not add horribly to the scrub radius.
The same size in +25mm may not fit in the rear but more important not good for the front geometry.
---------
Back to running flares, it is best to run wider wheels with better offsets than narrower ones with the wrong offsets for the chassis design. If you go to 17's the tires get far to tall quickly if you run them wider than about a 215 and add more weight as well as cost and highly stretched tires make look cool but are detrimental in several ways for those into handling first, looks second.
If you run 16's there are not many tires available nor wheels unfortunately as a great size for the car.
With 15's, 4x100, there are some great wheels in 15x8 and 9" wide and soon some 10 and 11" wide ones available for very reasonable cost. Again finding tires is the hard part, there is one 235 I am aware of, I need to double check the make and model of it. In race tires you can go as wide as 275mm!
-------------------
Of course for those more into style that how the car actually drives do as you please, for those of us more into driving than appearance we have only so many options available and I will help anyone that asks, which I have done quite a bit of, to pick the best for their purpose.
Rick
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