Mishimoto Oil Cooler testing at Buttonwillow

[frankiefiesta]

I've read numerous different car forums all talking about how poorly made their sandwich plates are.

I was going to order one of their kits before I came across these issues. Not worth blowing a motor.

I too have read this on several different forums.

 

[koozy]

Removed oil filter, sandwich plate and AN fittings, put everything back together making sure it was all tight. After 60 seconds of idling, oil started leaking again from between plate and engine block:

I'll contact Mishimito for advice next week. Bummed I won't be able to track the car tomorrow, was looking forward to testing a bunch of new stuff (LSD, new pads, rotors, Boomba deflectors...) . Guess I'll bring out the S2000

there are many variables like fastener torque, seating the o-rings and fittings properly, but this appears to be more of an install error IMO. that said, a component may now be out of spec due to an install error.

 

[RAAMaudio]

I got lucky as the 7 year or older Mocal plate gasket still worked fine when I put it on my car. I had a fitting leak, removed and sealed the adapter fittings to the plate which I should of done at first and fixed it, it was a minor leak. Now I have a little tiny leak at the AN fitting to the adapter fitting after pulling it off to drain the cooler during the last oil change, I will just loosen it a little, swivel back and forth, tighten, repeat, that nearly always fixes and AN type leak.

After decades of modding cars and the more mods more likely to happen, I expect to have a few things not perfect the first time out though usually I am quite lucky in that regard.

 

[koozy]

yes AN fittings are awesome, but they need to be seated properly. A red flag I see with juliog's sandwich adapter is that it is clock'd at 6, perpendicular to the ground. All things being equal there's no way I could clock mine at 6 without adding stress to the lines and related components, especially with pre-fabricated lines. This is a possible cause for leaks like the one posted above. When I installed my kit I made sure the lines and sandwich adapter were seated without being pulled and relaxed in their places before tightened everything down. In the various documentation floating around Mishimoto has their clocked close to where I clocked mine, at about 4:30.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Great post, always best to have zero stress on lines and at the very most very little if not avoidable.

 

[carramrod]

yes AN fittings are awesome, but they need to be seated properly. A red flag I see with juliog's sandwich adapter is that it is clock'd at 6, perpendicular to the ground. All things being equal there's no way I could clock mine at 6 without adding stress to the lines and related components, especially with pre-fabricated lines. This is a possible cause for leaks like the one posted above. When I installed my kit I made sure the lines and sandwich adapter were seated without being pulled and relaxed in their places before tightened everything down. In the various documentation floating around Mishimoto has their clocked close to where I clocked mine, at about 4:30.

Mine is around the 6 mark and I haven't seen any issues yet. I haven't crawled under the car and looked, but no drips One thing that I did was setting all the AN fittings and such, torque the center bolt, torque the AN fittings, and then re-torque the center bolt.

Also, since the routing of the lines may not be exactly the same per car, people's installs might be slightly different.

 

[carramrod]

yes AN fittings are awesome, but they need to be seated properly. A red flag I see with juliog's sandwich adapter is that it is clock'd at 6, perpendicular to the ground. All things being equal there's no way I could clock mine at 6 without adding stress to the lines and related components, especially with pre-fabricated lines. This is a possible cause for leaks like the one posted above. When I installed my kit I made sure the lines and sandwich adapter were seated without being pulled and relaxed in their places before tightened everything down. In the various documentation floating around Mishimoto has their clocked close to where I clocked mine, at about 4:30.

Mine is around the 6 mark and I haven't seen any issues yet. I haven't crawled under the car and looked, but no drips One thing that I did was setting all the AN fittings and such, torque the center bolt, torque the AN fittings, and then re-torque the center bolt.

 

[koozy]

Whatever works as long as it all fits and no leaks. I installed the AN fittings for the lines on the sandwich adapter, as well as the lines on to the oil cooler outside on a workbench before installing them on the car. I got a better feel for the fittings being seated this way rather than on my back and the fittings being pulled by other forces. I have no leaks.

 

[carramrod]

Whatever works as long as it all fits and no leaks. I installed the AN fittings for the lines on the sandwich adapter, as well as the lines on to the oil cooler outside on a workbench before installing them on the car. I got a better feel for the fittings being seated this way rather than on my back and the fittings being pulled by other forces. I have no leaks.

Yes, highly recommended putting the lines on the oil cooler outside of the car first, especially with an aftermarket FMIC. Good tip!

 

[juliog]

So... I had installed the sandwich plate in the wrong direction, rubber o-ring against filter lol. No wonder it wasn't sealing against block My excuse is working on car always late at night after work . I took plate off several times but didn't realize fatal mistake until today.

No leaks after flipping sandwich plate and reinstalling.

 

[RAAMaudio]

Glad you got it sorted out

And cool to admit what happened, none of us no matter how experienced have goofed up a time or two or more if doing this for decades.

I mismatched two different style push on hose fittings/lines once and blew a hose off at high speed, went off the track backwards, caught on fire....lucky for me I had a good fire bottle in the the car and know how to use them, I used to train some of this stuff for 3 years in the Navy, and was a trained corner worker in road racing a very long time ago. I acted on autopilot, got off the track in a safe place and had the fire out well before the response team could get there, not really supposed to do that but they were cool when I told them why I did it and they said it was perfectly done....It also allowed me to get the car cleaned up and back on track two hours later with hose clamps on all fittings! Now I clamp them all for added insurance.

Now get out there and have more fun in your personal pocket rocket

Rick

 

[golfhack]

So... I had installed the sandwich plate in the wrong direction, rubber o-ring against filter lol. No wonder it wasn't sealing against block My excuse is working on car always late at night after work[emoji14]. I took plate off several times but didn't realize fatal mistake until today.

No leaks after flipping sandwich plate and reinstalling.

Thanks for letting us know! I have one waiting to be installed.

 

[juliog]

Took Fiesta to the track again after a long hiatus.

OEM engine map
Quaife LSD
Mishimoto Oil Cooler
Boomba Brake Cooling Deflectors
OEM tires & wheels
Pierce Rear Torsion Bar Stiffener

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0VsFA7KD_0

Lap times: 2:12- 2:13 (wet day)
Coolant temps: ~220 F
Ambient temps: ~50-60 F

Front brake caliper temps: 500F


Very likely car will need a bigger radiator for the summer. Also car felt down on power despite low ambient temps and running a 93 octane mix. Wasn't running AP but I guess stock intercooler heatsoaks quickly. So maybe IC will be next upgrade along with a canned tune.

 

[juliog]

Took Fiesta to the track again after a long hiatus.

Front camber bolts / -2.5 camber / 0 toe
OEM engine map
Quaife LSD
Mishimoto Oil Cooler
Boomba Brake Cooling Deflectors
OEM tires & wheels
Pierce Rear Torsion Bar Stiffener

[video=youtube;W0VsFA7KD_0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0VsFA7KD_0[/video]

Lap times: 2:12- 2:13 (wet day)
Coolant temps: ~220 F
Ambient temps: ~50-60 F

Front brake caliper temps: 500F

Very likely car will need a bigger radiator for the summer. Also car felt down on power despite low ambient temps and running a 93 octane mix. Wasn't running AP to monitor charge temps but I guess stock intercooler was heat soaking badly? Maybe IC will be next upgrade along with a canned tune.

 

[awwwww_shift]

What pads were you running on Buttonwillow? Any fade? Trying to track down any hard parts I need before the season starts here in the midwest. Been heavily considering Carbotech and G-Loc pads, but being so used to Hawk stuff it's hard to discount the DTC stuff...

Anyone have long sessions, like 20-25 minutes? Most of the groups I get to run and instruct with here at Road America run longer sessions, so I'm questioning the sustainability of the hardware.

Thanks!

 

[Siestarider]

I ran stock brakes and OEM pads on track for 2 years. Installed LSD after first 5 trackdays, after which OEM brakes were fine on track. Added CMB brake cooling ducts, after which stock brakes and pads were more than adequate. Even without LSD, running with ESC fully off and being a little careful to not push to the max out of turns keeps TVC from using up front brakes, OEM worked fine with brake cooling.

Without brake cooling and LSD I was seeing front rotors exceed 1250 F and calipers hitting 500 F but Motul 600 fluid did not boil. A set of OEM front pads lasted 8-10 track days and DD in between.

Right now I have WW BBK on front. Carbotech XP 10 pads. Cannot tell it stops any faster than stock brakes and pads. No reduction in lap times. Probably because once you reach your tires' braking limits, adding more braking power does not translate into more performance on track. Few pounds of weight loss compared to stock is not measurable by my butt dyno.

 

[juliog]

What pads were you running on Buttonwillow? Any fade? Trying to track down any hard parts I need before the season starts here in the midwest. Been heavily considering Carbotech and G-Loc pads, but being so used to Hawk stuff it's hard to discount the DTC stuff...

I was running Carbotech XP10, ~20 min sessions. At the track, they worked much better than OEM ('14) or Winmax W3 (good for autox). The front brakes are still undersized, so eventually you will get some fade driving above a certain pace, but YMMV. This car needs a BBK.

I was also using Torque RT700 brake fluid. RBF 600/660 boils too easily for me

 

[awwwww_shift]

I was running Carbotech XP10, ~20 min sessions. At the track, they worked much better than OEM ('14) or Winmax W3 (good for autox). The front brakes are still undersized, so eventually you will get some fade driving above a certain pace, but YMMV. This car needs a BBK.

I was also using Torque RT700 brake fluid. RBF 600/660 boils too easily for me

This is what I was wondering. My home track(Road America) tends to be extremely hard on brakes, so doing everything within the rules to help make it through a session is what I'm wondering.

Were you running the XP10's at all 4 corners or did you have a split of pads on the rear? Any ducting towards them?

tia

 

[juliog]

I had OEM ('14) pads rear, only because I couldn't remove a rear lug nut to swap for XP10 before the track day. Rears stayed very cool though, min temp my stripes register is 300F and it didn't even reach that. But certainly same compound all around should be best..

Also no ducting, just the Boomba deflectors in the front with the stock dust shields removed.

 

[Siestarider]

When I mounted my used WW BBK couple months ago I did not flush whole system, just fronts. Tracked at PBIR couple weeks ago and felt front brakes getting soft end of third session. Flushed with new Motul 600 this weekend. Rears fluid 18 months old and looked it, cloudy but clean. Fronts flushed nearly black fluid, never seen that before. Maybe Motul did not match whatever fluid Chuckable was using. Or I have a contamination issue of unknown origin. Have to get back to track to see how they behave, cannot get them hot enough on street.

Also, I posted front caliper temps wrongly above, I used the same indicator strips Juliog posted pics of and got essentially same temps. Fronts pushing 500, rears 290. Corrected my post.