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Overheated today pretty bad!

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#22
While I agree the stock radiator is undersized, make sure you're checking the basics. Are the fans running? Is the coolant system free of bubbles? Easy things to do and saves you from balling out on a radiator.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #23
While I agree the stock radiator is undersized, make sure you're checking the basics. Are the fans running? Is the coolant system free of bubbles? Easy things to do and saves you from balling out on a radiator.
Oh yeah good call! I mean I was driving normal, not stop and go traffic. I’ll check all that out. It was weird because it’s been fine so far with this weather in Arizona, temps have been this high a few everyday for a month, threw me off. I did blow some fuses the other day when. Maybe I blew a fuse
 


OP
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Thread Starter #24
I just remembered!! The on Tuesday I blew a fuse when I tried jumping the car from a dead battery. Maybe I blew the radiator fan fuse or some with that? Anyone know the location of these fuses in our box? There aren’t any indications on what’s what?
 


M-Sport fan

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#25
Got it... like I said, I would have gotten the BA if it was out when I bought the car and was looking for an inter cooler. It would have saved me from the slightly saggy bumper I have due to not having the trim behind the bumper holding it up on the stock crash bar. Perhaps I’ll scrounge up the money to get one and put the original crash bar back on and sell the DHM stuff. I wonder if there’s even still a market for it?
IF one never has plans to go to at least an S280, and wants to stay on the factory snail indefinitely, the DHM, as well as all of the other over-sized ICs are not only overkill, but most likely will cause noticeable, performance hurting, pressure drop.

Someone, anyone PLEASE correct the above if it is wrong.
 


Last edited:

M-Sport fan

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#26
I just remembered!! The on Tuesday I blew a fuse when I tried jumping the car from a dead battery. Maybe I blew the radiator fan fuse or some with that? Anyone know the location of these fuses in our box? There aren’t any indications on what’s what?
Check the fan relays as well. [wink]
 


OP
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Thread Starter #27
Ok I checked it all, nothing blown, drove on the highway, but at idle it just can’t stay at a level temp. Slowly creeps upward until it overheats. Looks like I’ll be ordering the radiator tomorrow. Stupid Arizona summers.
 


gtx3076

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#28
It was 91 here and humid. Car saw 197* one time sitting in traffic. Cruising at 65 it was 191. I don't believe the car is modified but I could be wrong, had 100k when I bought it.

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OP
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Thread Starter #29
I ordered the mountune radiator from Ron yesterday.
 


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#30
I’ll probably order the mountune shortly.
The Mountune is an excellent choice. Yeah the Mishimoto is cheaper but many posts on this forum indicate it's a bit of a problem child with some good and some leakers.

I have the Mountune in my 2019 and while not nearly as hot as AZ I have had it out in 90 to 93 degree temps. If I have the AC turned off I won't ever hear the fan, even in stop and go traffic. Actually worried a bit after installing the Mountune that I had screwed up the fan wiring. What it took to get the fan to make noise was a 90 degree day and turning on the AC set at MAX cold. After 10 minutes of stop and go traffic the fan switched on. Sum it up and the Mountune radiator is a real high quality unit and worth every penny.

Something that still has me scratching my head a bit is that the Mountune radiator actually increased my fuel economy. Typical pre Mountune I would see about 32 mpg on the tattletail from commuting to work and home, on a route chosen for minimum stops and a 30 mph speed limit. Post Mountune I am seeing 35 mpg on the tattletail. BTW, I grew up in cars without Air Conditioning so I often drive with AC off and the windows open. I know that this is hard on the air conditioning but I just like feeling the air moving around.

BTW, if you didn't think of it your cabin heat is an accessory cooling unit. Put the heat on it's highest setting and switch the cabin fans on full and you can use it to limp home with. Yeah, you'll roast but it does beat calling a tow truck, just think of it as your mobile sauna.
 


SteveS

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#31
That reminds me of the summer I drove the Solo 2 regionals in Huntsville, AL and then roadtripped to my aunt and uncle's house in Maryland by way of Hilton Head Island for 4th of July for a vacation in my 1978 Fiesta. Car started overheating on the interstate as it was 100+ out and no clouds. We had to run the heat to keep the engine cool (there was no AC so we already had the windows open). Miserable. We measured our mileage in miles per quart of Gatorade that trip. Seats were so soaked in sweat you could squeeze it out in the morning when we got in to go the next day. Not to mention the problems from the shift lever I broke in Huntsville and fixed with a piece of galvanized pipe and two hose clamps that kept vibrating off.

Anyway, I flushed the cooling system when we got to my uncle's house and refilled it, and the problem was solved. Does anyone flush radiators any more?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #32
The Mountune is an excellent choice. Yeah the Mishimoto is cheaper but many posts on this forum indicate it's a bit of a problem child with some good and some leakers.

I have the Mountune in my 2019 and while not nearly as hot as AZ I have had it out in 90 to 93 degree temps. If I have the AC turned off I won't ever hear the fan, even in stop and go traffic. Actually worried a bit after installing the Mountune that I had screwed up the fan wiring. What it took to get the fan to make noise was a 90 degree day and turning on the AC set at MAX cold. After 10 minutes of stop and go traffic the fan switched on. Sum it up and the Mountune radiator is a real high quality unit and worth every penny.

Something that still has me scratching my head a bit is that the Mountune radiator actually increased my fuel economy. Typical pre Mountune I would see about 32 mpg on the tattletail from commuting to work and home, on a route chosen for minimum stops and a 30 mph speed limit. Post Mountune I am seeing 35 mpg on the tattletail. BTW, I grew up in cars without Air Conditioning so I often drive with AC off and the windows open. I know that this is hard on the air conditioning but I just like feeling the air moving around.

BTW, if you didn't think of it your cabin heat is an accessory cooling unit. Put the heat on it's highest setting and switch the cabin fans on full and you can use it to limp home with. Yeah, you'll roast but it does beat calling a tow truck, just think of it as your mobile sauna.
Yeah, I didn’t have ac in my first car(85 mr2), but I grew up in fl not Arizona. The FL summers are terrible too. I should be ok until next weekend when I can install this badboy.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #33
That reminds me of the summer I drove the Solo 2 regionals in Huntsville, AL and then roadtripped to my aunt and uncle's house in Maryland by way of Hilton Head Island for 4th of July for a vacation in my 1978 Fiesta. Car started overheating on the interstate as it was 100+ out and no clouds. We had to run the heat to keep the engine cool (there was no AC so we already had the windows open). Miserable. We measured our mileage in miles per quart of Gatorade that trip. Seats were so soaked in sweat you could squeeze it out in the morning when we got in to go the next day. Not to mention the problems from the shift lever I broke in Huntsville and fixed with a piece of galvanized pipe and two hose clamps that kept vibrating off.

Anyway, I flushed the cooling system when we got to my uncle's house and refilled it, and the problem was solved. Does anyone flush radiators any more?
If it was an old car I’d think about flushing it. I’m the original owner and it has 12k miles on it, bought it last July 4th, no need.
 


Ford ST

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#34
Any time your AC compressor is on the fan should be running so don't quite understand the post about the person saying the fan didn't come on until 10 minutes after having the AC on.

If you hook up a set of AC gauges you will see the high side pressure will skyrocket in seconds if the fan is not pulling air through the condenser.

Automotive AC systems work the same way as a refrigerator, a outside unit, a window or whatever if the AC compressor is running so should the fan for the condenser.


I know that is off topic but just saying.


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gtx3076

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#35
It's 97 here and I was cruising with 189-191* coolant temps with the AC on. Are these overheating issues sitting in traffic?

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M-Sport fan

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#36
^^^My still factory radiator equipped car definitely runs cooler in stop and go traffic in summer heat with the AC on, than with it off (by at least 15*F, if not more).

This has to be due to exactly what you are stating above, i.e.; the high speed fan setting switching on with the AC switch.

The heater is only going to help so much in stop and go, given that it does not switch on the high speed cooling fan setting, and there is no added airflow through the radiator from forward motion.
 


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Thread Starter #37
It's 97 here and I was cruising with 189-191* coolant temps with the AC on. Are these overheating issues sitting in traffic?

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Yes, while moving I get temps between 205-215. At idle it slowly overheats,
 


Ford ST

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#38
It's 97 here and I was cruising with 189-191* coolant temps with the AC on. Are these overheating issues sitting in traffic?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
Your temps are low so maybe your car is modified maybe someone put a low temperature thermostat in.

Your coolant temperatures are excellent.


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Metro Detroit
#40
Learned a bit about AC systems here, it never occurred to me that using it would trigger the cooling fan. I'll blame it on all these new fangled devices they keep adding to your basic automobile. Gosh dang darned flam it I do believe that cars have been going down hill since they took away the starter crank.

Taking a break from the grumpy old geezer bit I need to ask you if you have a vacuum coolant filler device. Cost of one of these runs about 75 bucks and it's money well spent. Because once set up properly they will suck the coolant into the engine in about 2 seconds.

Tip, inside the neck for the coolant reservoir there is a small slot for the over flow. With some systems you will never ever get a vacuum if you don't seal up that passage. Pop the reservoir free and on the underside opposite of that opening in the neck you'll find a short round boss about 1/2 in diameter. Put a small square of electrical tape on that boss to seal it up and you'll build full vacuum quickly. BTW, remember to remove it once you've run all the coolant in. Following is a link to the Vacuum cooling system filler kit I have.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-24444
 




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