P0420 and new down pipe

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#1
Hey all,

I’ve been getting code P0420 for a few months. Put new O2 sensors in and tried different catalytic cleaners, but to no avail. Just picked up a low mileage downpipe and plan to install it this weekend.

Anything else I should try before putting the car under the knife? And any ideas of other stuff I should address while I’m in there?
 


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TyphoonFiST

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#3
Hey all,

I’ve been getting code P0420 for a few months. Put new O2 sensors in and tried different catalytic cleaners, but to no avail. Just picked up a low mileage downpipe and plan to install it this weekend.

Anything else I should try before putting the car under the knife? And any ideas of other stuff I should address while I’m in there?
Whoosh* End it all

https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle...ant-02-sensor-defouler-j-style-thread-on-bung

https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle...ee-defouler-fiesta-st-focus-st-rs-explorer-st

https://whooshmotorsports.com/colle...ung-w-restrictor-fittings-for-adjustable-flow
 


OP
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Thread Starter #5
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#6
Had to use them on a different car, as the Vibrant models were just too big for the space, could not fit both those and the sensor. The J style is huge. So the Dorman was a workable, and cheap, alternative. They come in two sizes, the short version worked for my situation.

Working well so far on my other car with a catted DP. That said, the hole in them is about the same size as the medium Vibrant restrictor, so not clear how well they would work with a decat DP.
 


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#7
I am surprised Oreilly is actually selling De-Foulers, Because these are illegal under the EPA and they are really cracking down, just look at the millions that COBB had to pay out recently.

I will also note that the OEM Downpipe has features in it to form a standing wave vacuum impulse at the Turbocharger exhaust outlet. Truth is these are the best downpipes to use if you are using a stock turbo. Because that bit of tuning in the downpipe does speed the response of the turbo to the throttle and creates more mid range power in that torque hump before the turbo starts to run out of capacity.
 


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#8
all the major parts stores near my area appear to sell such things, branded as 'spark plug defoulers' - errm, yeah. Must a 'if you know, you know' thing?

Found them at Advance Auto, Autozone, etc. too.
 


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Thread Starter #9
I am surprised Oreilly is actually selling De-Foulers, Because these are illegal under the EPA and they are really cracking down, just look at the millions that COBB had to pay out recently.

I will also note that the OEM Downpipe has features in it to form a standing wave vacuum impulse at the Turbocharger exhaust outlet. Truth is these are the best downpipes to use if you are using a stock turbo. Because that bit of tuning in the downpipe does speed the response of the turbo to the throttle and creates more mid range power in that torque hump before the turbo starts to run out of capacity.
Yeah, I’ll be putting a new to me cat in this weekend. I noticed that the voltage is fluctuating between bank 1 sensors 1 and 2 similarly, so must be a bad cat.

WHY it went bad is another issue - maybe blow by and then oil poisoning? I hope to do a media blast on the head this winter and then put in a catch can. At 90k miles. IMG_7721.png
 


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#10
I have the same going on at like 40k and thinking about picking up a whoosh catted downpipe if sale happens on black friday
 


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Thread Starter #12
Well folks, got the dreaded turbo to dp bolt issues. Removed 2. The top one, number 3, made it halfway out and then would. not. budge.

From what I've read on old reddit posts, if I keep going I WILL snap it, and then I'll be up a crick.

I don't have time to remove and drill/retap the turbo atm, so I guess I'll patch it all back together for now. Then, it's going to be turbo out to retap, and put some quality studs in from Whoosh.

Christmas break is going to be FUN 🎄
 


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Thread Starter #13
Heyo, thinking of running one of these for the time being before coming back to the new cat project. Probably just putting a defouler on the downstream O2 sensor for the moment and hoping that does the trick for now...
 


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Thread Starter #14
I have the same going on at like 40k and thinking about picking up a whoosh catted downpipe if sale happens on black friday
just be careful removing the turbo/dp bolts. I've now read enough horror stories to know that this is a very, very common issue.

I proceeded slowly and soaked in pb blaster over night, used heat before even trying - and it still didn't work.

Only thing I'd do different is get the turbo flange red hot (rather than just up to temp), but be careful of any fuel lines. Good luck!
 


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#15
just be careful removing the turbo/dp bolts. I've now read enough horror stories to know that this is a very, very common issue.

I proceeded slowly and soaked in pb blaster over night, used heat before even trying - and it still didn't work.

Only thing I'd do different is get the turbo flange red hot (rather than just up to temp), but be careful of any fuel lines. Good luck!
I'm having the same issue now and I tried that but the bolt just ended up snapping. What could I do to drill it out and tap it?
 


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Thread Starter #16
I'm having the same issue now and I tried that but the bolt just ended up snapping. What could I do to drill it out and tap it?
Bummer. Yes, you’ll likely need to remove the turbo and then drill and tap it. But of course be careful with the turbo studs to the exhaust manifold too…
 


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#17
Bummer. Yes, you’ll likely need to remove the turbo and then drill and tap it. But of course be careful with the turbo studs to the exhaust manifold too…
Im pretty sure all my manifold studs and nuts are seized to
 


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#18
this is what I am afraid of when it comes to performing the swap...trying to tap out broken studs in the head while in the car doesnt sound like a good time...
 


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Thread Starter #19
Im pretty sure all my manifold studs and nuts are seized to
Nuts. Have you been soaking with penetrating oil and heating with a torch? Be careful in there, but hopefully you can get it free. Otherwise, off to a pro.
 


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#20
Is there a way to take the hot side of the turbo off while on the car? Or do you think I could possibly use a right angle drill to get the broken bolt out and then tap it? And if I do drill it out does anyone know what size drill bit I use?
 


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