(Possibly) Blew a head gasket looking for suggestions

[arlisscm]

Looking for suggestions for what all else I should replace/update while I will have the engine and transmission out.
Here is what I have so far:

New engine (fairly obvious)
New intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, new turbo to manifold and turbo to downpipe gaskets, new throttle body to intake manifold gasket
New exhaust manifold, turbo to manifold and turbo to downpipe studs and nuts (ARP)
Header wrap for exhaust manifold since all the Cerakote flaked off (downpipe already wrapped)
New injector seals and install tool
New plugs and coils
Slapping on an Airtec oil cooler
Copious amounts of oil and filters
2 gallons of coolant
New axle seals
Ravenol transmission fluid
New tensioner and pulley
New idler pulley for my AC delete
New serpentine belt (shorter belt for my AC delete
Various hardware
New upper bearings for my BC coilovers (they are a bit clunky)

Built transmission with new slave cylinder went in ~500 miles before the engine went, and clutch/pressure plate/flywheel have ~1000 miles on them (looked basically new when I was swapping the transmission), so I'll reuse all of that.

Am I missing anything or does anyone have something I should add?

 

[M-Sport fan]

You are not going to be wanting for every single pony or 'torques' at the wheels with that setup, given it's possible head room for tuning/fuel/etc.

But if for some reason you are, there are also the Whoosh overdriven alloy water pump pulley if you are concerned with possible cooling issues on track, or the Pumaspeed underdriven alloy pulley for the water pump, especially since you have basically the highest capacity radiator offered for these cars.

Does anyone offer higher strength (300M) front axles and CV joints for our application yet (or will they ever)?

 

[arlisscm]

You are not going to be wanting for every single pony or 'torques' at the wheels with that setup, given it's possible head room for tuning/fuel/etc.

But if for some reason you are, there are also the Whoosh overdriven alloy water pump pulley if you are concerned with possible cooling issues on track, or the Pumaspeed underdriven alloy pulley for the water pump, especially since you have basically the highest capacity radiator offered for these cars.

Does anyone offer higher strength (300M) front axles and CV joints for our application yet (or will they ever)?

For the time being I'm staying maxed out on 93 on the S280, so ~300whp. I do want to run e30 or e50 one day, not looking for anything world shattering. If I can get within spitting distance of 400whp with the fast spool of the S280, that will be plenty. Even with ~300whp out on track only a handful of supercharged muscle cars and some exotics barely walk me on the straights.

I have toyed with the thought of the overdriven pulley. My only issues are 1) I'm looking to take advantage of the the tougher engine by bumping the rev limit up a bit (at least to 7,500RPM) to give me a little more legs between gears. So, the water pump will be spinning even faster than a normal overdriven pump (car is basically full track duty now, so it will live most of its life between 5,000RPM and the limiter). 2) Related to 1, but with centrifugal pumps the power requirement goes up by the cube with RPM (see thee affinity laws). So, from the Whoosh pulley a 7% reduction in size = a 7% increase in speed = 22.5% increase in required power (at any given engine RPM, assuming no slippage). This makes me question what the longevity of the water pump and its bearings will be with the extra power transmission load and axial thrust (higher speed = more head = more thrust), and it is also extra parasitic draw just by the pump on its own.

The underdriven pulley is interesting, my main hang up is it requires a special belt due to the size change. I already have a special belt since I have an AC delete, so I would need to hunt down the correct belt to run the underdriven pulley and AC delete. (basically find out how much longer the "new" belt is compared to stock and add that length to my AC delete belt) Not a deal breaker by any means, but likely something I'll look into deeper if I run into cooling issues. Which, I should note, was never an issue until the engine went. So this one is still a possibility.

As far as I know the only uprated axles were the ones Ron was doing a pre-order for and they never happened. If anyone chimes in with some, I'll certainly look into it. But at the very least, once I go to ethanol in the future, if the torque is starting to look dangerous, the tune can tone it back. Since I do basically all road course tracks, I don't need stump pulling torque down low, so as long as the midrange (4,500-5,500RPM) is decent, it'll be fine.