Post your datazap datalogs !!

[razorlab]

Need to make it public

 

[Rejeme]

Sorry, I hit publish, I think that should do it. This was an S2 run. I just added my DP and uploaded S3. Will post new logs soon.

Updated with DP and S3 OTS 91:
http://www.datazap.me/u/rejeme/cobb-s3-91?log=2&data=7

 

[Charest2394]

Hello guys,

When you made some log, what is the most important parameter to verify after.

Example I thinks it's important to not have negative value on Ign Corr. Cyl 1 to 4 (Correct me if i'm wrong)!

What is the others parameters at verify for make sure that all works good?

And is it just interesting to made several log on a Full Push on the 3 or 4 gear? Does a log on normal driving will be interesting?

Thanks!

 

[dyn085]

Hello guys,

When you made some log, what is the most important parameter to verify after.

Example I thinks it's important to not have negative value on Ign Corr. Cyl 1 to 4 (Correct me if i'm wrong)!

What is the others parameters at verify for make sure that all works good?

And is it just interesting to made several log on a Full Push on the 3 or 4 gear? Does a log on normal driving will be interesting?

Thanks!

For me the most important data from a final tune is the ignition corrections between the four cylinders. All four should be roughly the same and as close to zero as possible. Any positive corrections, while safe, indicate that some power was left on the table. Any negatives indicate that the tune is too aggressive for the mechanical setup and/or fuel. If absolute zero cannot be obtained, and it most likely won't across the entire power band, you want to err on the side of safety and have positive corrections. If you have one cylinder that is typically weaker, and most cars do, that cylinder should be the one you monitor on a consistent basis if you only monitor one.

Outside of that it's a lot of personal preference. I normally monitor the 4-gauge with AFR, boost pressure, ign correction for one cylinder, and oil temp.

I collect data from just random driving on occasion, but it's mostly to gain insight on things like air temps, heatsoak, cruising EGR temps, etc. It's fun to look at, but difficult to do comparisons due to inconsistencies that occur in normal everyday driving.

 

[Charest2394]

For me the most important data from a final tune is the ignition corrections between the four cylinders. All four should be roughly the same and as close to zero as possible. Any positive corrections, while safe, indicate that some power was left on the table. Any negatives indicate that the tune is too aggressive for the mechanical setup and/or fuel. If absolute zero cannot be obtained, and it most likely won't across the entire power band, you want to err on the side of safety and have positive corrections. If you have one cylinder that is typically weaker, and most cars do, that cylinder should be the one you monitor on a consistent basis if you only monitor one.

Outside of that it's a lot of personal preference. I normally monitor the 4-gauge with AFR, boost pressure, ign correction for one cylinder, and oil temp.

I collect data from just random driving on occasion, but it's mostly to gain insight on things like air temps, heatsoak, cruising EGR temps, etc. It's fun to look at, but difficult to do comparisons due to inconsistencies that occur in normal everyday driving.

Thank you for your answer is exactly what I need!!!

 

[Charest2394]

Hello Guys

this is one of my Data Log on the 4 Gear.

http://www.datazap.me/u/charest2394...-slots-1?log=0&data=8-11-12-13-14&zoom=13-104

 

[Siestarider]

Interesting dataset, I do not understand why ignition corr varies across cylinders so much, none of the other datum give me a clue, and the other parameters look clean to me.

 

[koozy]

Hello Guys

this is one of my Data Log on the 4 Gear.

http://www.datazap.me/u/charest2394...-slots-1?log=0&data=8-11-12-13-14&zoom=13-104

"etc angle actual" is indicating throttle closer at times, it ideally should remain at 82 unless limiters have been reached. this may be tied to some of the ignition retard going on as well. it'd be interesting to see if there were any knock counts, but it's missing from the set of parameters that were being logged.

 

[Charest2394]

"etc angle actual" is indicating throttle closer at times, it ideally should remain at 82 unless limiters have been reached. this may be tied to some of the ignition retard going on as well. it'd be interesting to see if there were any knock counts, but it's missing from the set of parameters that were being logged.

What information the knock counts indicate? And What is a good and bad value for the knock counts.

What there have a throttle closer at time but I work with randy at Mountune to correct this!

 

[koozy]

What information the knock counts indicate? And What is a good and bad value for the knock counts.

What there have a throttle closer at time but I work with randy at Mountune to correct this!

knock counts can give insight if the knock sensors detected 'knock' that coincide with the ignition retard. if no knock is being detected, but ignition retard is occurring we have to look at other things that could cause these events.

 

[iso100]

Hello Guys

this is one of my Data Log on the 4 Gear.

http://www.datazap.me/u/charest2394...-slots-1?log=0&data=8-11-12-13-14&zoom=13-104

Great oogly moogly, what FMIC are you running with 24psi? Your charge temps are rising 28 degrees during that run.

My car running ~24-25psi and the Mishimoto J-Line rises 1.6 degrees.

http://datazap.me/u/iso100/randy-revision-6-15t-slot-1?log=0&data=4-5&zoom=92-161

I've noticed that even the DHM Monster IC has charge temps that rise 10 degrees or more on a 3rd gear pull. Is the Mishimoto really that good?

 

[dyn085]

The only FMIC that will rise that high is the OEM unit. I have not seen a single aftermarket unit come even remotely close to that.

And, imho, yes-the Moshimoto is really that good. My Cobb unit does not cool as much, though it definitely doesn't rise 10 degrees over ambient. Size is not the only consideration for a FMIC-design and efficiency are of paramount concern as well.

 

[DHM1]

Great oogly moogly, what FMIC are you running with 24psi? Your charge temps are rising 28 degrees during that run.

My car running ~24-25psi and the Mishimoto J-Line rises 1.6 degrees.

http://datazap.me/u/iso100/randy-revision-6-15t-slot-1?log=0&data=4-5&zoom=92-161

I've noticed that even the DHM Monster IC has charge temps that rise 10 degrees or more on a 3rd gear pull. Is the Mishimoto really that good?

you also have 4psi less up top only 14psi which is a lot up top when talking hot air. Most of my test have been 24-28psi. The post from rods car had a boost rise curve which more boost at higher rpm = more heat. Maybe ill just get a j line to do some testing.

Russ

 

[Charest2394]

Great oogly moogly, what FMIC are you running with 24psi? Your charge temps are rising 28 degrees during that run.

My car running ~24-25psi and the Mishimoto J-Line rises 1.6 degrees.

http://datazap.me/u/iso100/randy-revision-6-15t-slot-1?log=0&data=4-5&zoom=92-161

I've noticed that even the DHM Monster IC has charge temps that rise 10 degrees or more on a 3rd gear pull. Is the Mishimoto really that good?

Yes in the moment I run the OEM intercooler.

 

[SFP]

Hey guys looks like I keep hitting a limit or something. Car has a STG 1 OTS Map and Drop In Filter currently. Any ideas how to stop it I get the P061a code.

I already am talking to Cobb about it but wanted to get it out there some more.

http://www.datazap.me/u/tuxblack15/p061a-code?log=0&data=4-9

 

[Sourskittle]

The ignition timing is VERY low. I think you maybe served better to lower the boost a bit on the topend and raise the timing. But that's my thought on the stock turbo period. It creates so much heat as it is, asking it to run higher boost on the topend mostly just creates heat. With heat, the CAT temps go up and the ECU naturally pulls back timing. To keep the boost but loose overall power because your running such low timing.

If your adding a FMIC in the next week or two, I won't worry about messing with it. I like to see between 12-16 degrees of timing on the topend (on pump gas) with 25-22psi , but i realize I live/tune in a different world than the stock turbo does. On E45 i like to see 16.5-18 degrees of timing ( at 25-29psi-25psi ).

This is where I love race tuner.... $150 and I can try things myself. I don't wait days or weeks or even hours for updates. I can spend 2-4 hours in BFE running the car, cooling the car, analyzing the data, making adjustments, then testing adjustments (Repeat).

While the knowledge and time of a tuner like panda or Russ/DHM or Randy can be worth their weight in copper, having control and knowledge of everything is pretty nice as well. They can never take in info, adjust, and reply as fast as you can test things on your car on your time. I wish more people would try. I'm more than willing to help guide people in the right directions if topics/questions would be posted, and I PROMISE, if I guide anyone in the wrong direction, within seconds I'd have plenty of people posting to tell me I'm wrong and correct me, lol.

Learning new things can be hard, but i find teaching them is actually more of a challenge.

 

[koozy]

Hey guys looks like I keep hitting a limit or something. Car has a STG 1 OTS Map and Drop In Filter currently. Any ideas how to stop it I get the P061a code.

I already am talking to Cobb about it but wanted to get it out there some more.

http://www.datazap.me/u/tuxblack15/p061a-code?log=0&data=4-9

could be torque limit, are you running an aftermarket downpipe?

 

[SFP]

No aftermarket anything other than the AP and a Drop In Filter.

 

[SFP]

This is the V Dyno I did and it may very well be doing that :/

 

[Sourskittle]

This is the V Dyno I did and it may very well be doing that :/

Either you have a really light car or your an extremely light person, lol. My car is 2740 without me in it, lol.
By "just the access port" does that mean your not running the stg1 tune ? You guys could also get away with doing 3rd gear pulls unless you just have a nice place to go 120mph from 37mph to 120mph in 4th at, lol. When I used to do 4th gear pulls, it felt like it took 3/4mile to get to 120-125mph from low-rpm 4th gear.