I wish I had before and after logs to compare but I don't and cannot produce any before logs, explained below as well as what I was asked to show about my intake design, spelled out completely for the best possible understanding of what it really is.
---------------------
Just to set the record straight.
All the data we can muster is great, some of us had not used nor understood that Vdyno is such a good tool, now we do.
The issue was attitude and respect, common curtesy goes along way in keeping the peace on a forum.
Razor was not banned, he left on his own, it was still his decision, lets keep it to the truth please.
It was very unfortunate that a lot of great info was lost to us all, it did not have to happen but some just did not want to play well in our sandbox.
Best to leave the past behind and move on, there is no gain in bringing up old wounds, let's learn from our past mistakes and make the best of what we have for us all.
--------------------------
Unfortunately my car was stock for only 293 miles and has been constantly modified since and my intake will not fit any other car so there is no way to get a comparison, I do not have a stock intake.
But, if one takes a good look at the pictures and looks at the info and can understand basic engineering principles it is quite easy to see how well it flows.
There is a possibility the 2J may work better to a degree but it is also pulling air from a low pressure area, not pressurized at speed as below, not an all season intake in some areas due to rain and snow, at least I would not use it all season if I drove my car in such weather regularly. And it is very loud, many would not want to live with that daily.
My Intake: please see notes after the list on upgrades.
1) Modified NACA duct inlet in the grill, off angled a bit but still in direct air flow, grill area is sealed very well thus creating significant pressure into the intake.
2) 3" line brake duct hose, now with less curve, more direct input to the filter housing.
3) Round filter housing, lots of race cars use round housings for good reason, less turbulence, more uniform air flow, less weight as well. I have seen round housings on hundreds of race cars up to the highest level builds, there is a reason. It has a beer tap on the opposite side, perfect drain hole.
4) AEM dry element filter with velocity stack outlet.
5) 3" Aluminum 45 degree elbow with ports as needed which are smoothed as much as possible inside.
6) 3" coupling, tubing is beveled and smoothed.
7) 3" aluminum 90 down to 3-2.5" coupler, heat wrapped tubing
8) 2.5 elbow, port included that is smoothed, inlet to elbow is beveled and smoothed, heat wrapped
9) 2.5-2" reducer to custom 2" turbo inlet, flared input, port matched to compressor housing.
Notes: Parts on hand for months before and while waiting for EFR turbo upgrade:
1) 3" 180 bend to replace 90, 3-2.5" reducer, 2.5" elbow, 2.5-2" reducer
2) Weld 180 and 45 bends, carefully matched, smoothed tubes, carefully welded to prevent slag, etc, smoothest possible joint, eliminate coupler.
3) Cone on top of filter to create better flow around it.
4) Insulate inlet hose before air box, air box, and the tubing to the turbo with fiberglass mat lined insulation.
5) Heat shield between tubing and manifold, turbo, down pipe heat wrapped and shielded as well.
6) Under tray duct to draw heat out of engine bay(already in use)
Results:
Very low intake noise
Direct cold air inlet and under pressure at moderate speed
Least restrictive and air flow correcting filter inlet and outlet
Smoothest flow path
All season use
Very low weight, very low cost to build
Just no data, again common engineering understanding dictates this is highly likely the best all around intake one could build for the car at the present and more so with the additional updates.
(one could create a more aggressive inlet design of course but it I chose a very good design that does not muss up the looks of the car, my car is not pure race car, just a very well sorted out street track car with pretty subtle looks as I prefer)
During tuning with E30, Cyborg turbo, in the 30 degree and colder weather range we were loosing spark at 6k RPM and above, this seemed to be the inlet air was just to cold at speed. I was going to reroute the inlet air from inside the engine bay for testing but had to leave on a long delayed extended trip as well as had decided to move to the EFR turbo I had always planned to run.
I have plenty of logs but for some reason cannot open them up in the ATR, just Vdyno, we were not logging air temps at the time, no need, it was cold!
I will have to look into this and also at many logs on warmer days to see what I can find.
If there is a specific value that is best to look at let me know, hopefully I have some logs showing it.
--------------------------
If this is not acceptable to some then let them show why they would believe otherwise, using common engineering principles, please
Early stage of construction:
Updated cooling system and rerouted inlet hose.
Inlet:
Updated cooling system and rerouted inlet hose, shorter, less acute bend.
Have a great weekend
Rick