Proper coolant bleed procedure?

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#41
I would be really surprised if it hurt anything in that short period of time, but maybe over time those extra minerals could cause a problem. If it was me I would redo it with the proper distilled water just for peace of mind. It's clearly bothering you (at least four emojis worth), and it would also bother me, so the sooner you change it you can just know that now it's right. I change my coolant every 3 years, and that would be a long time to drive around wondering if there was something wrong in there which was causing an issue.
If you're adding any kind of water, I'm assuming that you are also using concentrated coolant which requires dilution, not pre-mix, correct?

Yeah, I was thinking the same about it staying in there for the long term and causing build up deposits or whatever issues can arise... I'm planning on installing a whoosh hybrid in a few months and def. want the peace of mind over the long haul.

I'm gonna drain and fill/burp the system 2x, using distilled water, to fully get everything out of the system and then I'll refill using a 60/40 or 50/50 mix and a bottle of water wetter. I live in San Diego so we never see freezing temps or anything...

I accidentally wound up buying the CONCENTRATED version of fords newer Yellow coolant for our cars which was what led me to using the bottled water I had laying around in my garage.

Thanks for the input!
 


Erick_V

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#42
Yeah, I was thinking the same about it staying in there for the long term and causing build up deposits or whatever issues can arise... I'm planning on installing a whoosh hybrid in a few months and def. want the peace of mind over the long haul.

I'm gonna drain and fill/burp the system 2x, using distilled water, to fully get everything out of the system and then I'll refill using a 60/40 or 50/50 mix and a bottle of water wetter. I live in San Diego so we never see freezing temps or anything...

I accidentally wound up buying the CONCENTRATED version of fords newer Yellow coolant for our cars which was what led me to using the bottled water I had laying around in my garage.

Thanks for the input!
See you're in San Diego, a place it doesn't freeze. FWIW I use a 75/25 mix with water wetter and it hasn't caused me any issues. After my track day with the Mountune rad I believe I touched 230 for a second after my 20-minute session on track and then easily dropped to 190-200 after the cooldown. I went like a bat out of hell from the start of the session as they moved me to the front, I hardly hit traffic. My brakes stopped working and almost sent me off at 80mph before coolant temp became an issue lol
 


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#43
Finally got around to replacing the OE orange with the yellow. Searched all the threads on here and this one had the best info so thought I would detail my experience here.

Factory manual specifying vacuum fill had me a bit leery that I might have issues. Zero issues. Process went the same as with any other car I have done. Didn't need to elevate the front of the car. Didn't really even need to do the 3500 rpm thing though it did help to get the temp up quicker.

Filled and drained the system 4 times with distilled water. Dropping the lower hose only drains slightly more than half the system. Took 4 flushes to clear the factory fill, even at that still had a very slight pink tinge.

Process.

1) car on jack stands open lower hose till it stops draining, reconnect and lower car.
2) open bleeder at center top of radiator and fill bottle, close bleeder when flow appears. Fill bottle to max line, took exactly 3 liters every time, so slightly more than half of 6.1 quart capacity.
3) start car and allow to come to temp with heat on, revving to 3500 didn't seem to make any difference other than it warmed up quicker.
4) repeat steps above until draining water is clear.
5) final fill with 3 quarts of yellow concentrate and top up to max line as necessary with water for 50:50 mix.
6 drive it.

Next day level had dropped to about halfway between min and max, so another top up with water was required.
 




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