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Replacing black tape around side window frames

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Orange
#1
Long story, but due to a garage incident, some chemicals dripped onto the grained black tape trim around the window on one of my rear doors, marking the tape trim. It bugs me and I want to replace the tape. I got the replacement two pieces. One goes from the back edge of the window and over the top of the window. The other goes up the front edge of the window and overlaps the second piece slightly at the top.

Once I get the old pieces off, I can install the new ones, which fold around the edges of the window frame. To do this, I need to remove the weatherstrip along the front edge of the rear door, but there are two pieces of hard plastic holding the weatherstrip in place, that I don't want to break. Oddball question, but has anyone disassembled a rear door to the point that they can tell me how to remove the weatherstrip from the front edge of the rear door?

I scoured the web, but can't find detailed info about the weatherstrip. Just vague parts fische photos, which don't show all of the pieces to it.

Thanks
 


OP
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Thread Starter #2
Figured it out - the weatherstrip along the front edge of the rear door is double-side taped to the door frame. Carefully peeled it back and it stuck back on with no problems.

Got the new black tape trim installed. Had to remove the door glass and all weatherstrip around the door, but wasn't too hard and job came out perfect.
 


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Gent
#3
Nice, where did you get the replacements ?
My car had some scratches on the tape when i got her. (Second hand)
And just like you it buggs the hell out of me.

Got any pics of what you did ?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #4
I don't have any pictures of the replacement process, and the finished product just looks like the car originally came. I bought my parts on ebay. You can check the parts listings at www.fordparts.com or a similar site to get the part numbers. Basically, figure that for whichever door you need to fix, you will be buying three parts: the tape for each door consists of two pieces - look at your door, and you will see that there is a small seam right next to the B pillar where the piece of tape on the B pillar overlaps the piece of tape that covers the rest of the door trim. Also, the rubber belt line molding that runs along the bottom of the window will bend and be destroyed when you remove it - it's a one-time piece, so you'll need to buy a new one of these as well. In all, for my right rear door, I paid about $40 for the belt line molding, $25 for the piece of tape on the B pillar, and $20 for the tape for the rest of the door.

Before proceeding, you need to be very comfortable with the idea of disassembling your door and applying the vinyl tape without damaging it, or you'll end up with a job that's no better than what you had, and you'll probably be frustrated by the project. I've done vinyl graphics plenty of times, and am a pretty good mechanic, so this job didn't phase me much.

Again, this was my right rear door, but I imagine the process would be similar for whatever door you are working on. You'll need to strip the top part of the door of the weatherstrip and window run channel to get access to the entire window frame. The tape wraps around the back side of the frame, so all of the rubber parts need to be out of the way. To get the run channel rubber out of the door frame, you'll also need to remove the window glass.

To do this, you'll need to remove the interior door panel and the interior glass guide strip. Under this, there is a second plastic panel, on which you will see two foam discs. Pulling these back carefully, if you roll up the window partially, the two 10mm bolts that hold the glass to the window carrier can be loosened, and the glass maneuvered out of the door. Pull back everything around the window frame, peel off the old tape trim, and remove all of the glue boogers with Goo Gone or something similar. Clean up the area where the tape will go with alcohol and you're ready to start.

In applying the vinyl tape, dip it in a solution of water with a few drops of dish soap, and you'll be able to slide it around until it's in the exact correct spot. Smooth it out, and apply the second piece. Wait for it to dry, and wrap the excess vinyl around the back side of the frame. Once you're happy with your installation, give it plenty of time for the water to dry out, and the vinyl to be firmly in place. Give everything one last look, push down any loose edges, and reassemble your door. Install your new exterior belt line molding, and you're done.

Good luck!
 


OP
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Thread Starter #7
Thanks, guys. It sounds pretty involved but it's really easier than it sounds, and I budgeted a lot more time for the job than it needed. I started on Friday night, and got to the point that the new tape was installed. I let it dry overnight, and it took about an hour to reassemble the door the next morning. And that included having to remove and reinstall the interior panel twice. The first time, I was stupid and forgot to plug the window switch back into the harness. The second time, I discovered that when reinstalling the glass, I apparently didn't push it down far enough into the window carrier before tightening the 10mm screws - the window rolled up, but didn't roll down, since it wasn't attached to the carrier. Easy fixes, but added time I wouldn't have needed if I didn't make those two mistakes.
 


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Location
Fort Worth
#8
Anyone successful in not damaging the belt molding? Gonna have to do one myself, not wanting to buy this lol
 


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#9
One of those situations of looking for info and finding a thread years later

My exterior trim molding pieces need to be replaced because the dealer I got my car from removed them all because the car had wind deflectors and when removed ruined the moldings.

Anyway, is removing the windows really necessary?! Seems crazy to replace essentially stick on external window moldings.
 


PunkST

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#11
I never pulled any glass. I do need to re wrap my pillars again, first time doing it turned out ok ish, but i can do better
 


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#13
Does the belt moulding just pull off?, just attached with tape? Also the piece thats in the channel just gets pulled straight out when the glass is out? Not taped in?
 


PunkST

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#14
There are pegs on the moulding. And it has a strip of metal innit to hold its shape. It gets bent and ruined really easy. Best to get that spots that slip under the molding wet with quick detailer or some other solution that can be squeezed out to keep it fron sticking till you get it seated correctly. Its a pain in the butt
 


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#15
There are pegs on the moulding. And it has a strip of metal innit to hold its shape. It gets bent and ruined really easy. Best to get that spots that slip under the molding wet with quick detailer or some other solution that can be squeezed out to keep it fron sticking till you get it seated correctly. Its a pain in the butt
Yea i figured it had the metal insert, do you recall placement and number of pegs? Would a trim tool fit them?
 


PunkST

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#16
I think its 2 or three on each door. A trim tool will still bend the metal inside. But it might be worth a shot. Theres one on each end and one in the middle if im remembering right. If not, they arent too expensive to replace.
 


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Fort Worth
#17
40 for the trim, Ive had the sticker for months, gotta be the most labor intensive sticker in automotive history.. didnt realize it needed the extra parts either..gonna give it a go before i order but thanks!
 


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#18
The metal is running thru the flat part of the moldings tho yea? Just need a good pry on the nubs lubed up, little force on the remaining bar maybe
 


PunkST

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#19
Yeah. But like i said it bends easy and itll never get back straight if its too bent. Also those nubs like to break. So be careful
 




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