RF and LR Brakes locked up

[txFiST]

Soooooooo, a few weeks ago I noticed my RF and LR brakes dragging a bit. So I checked the guide pins and they moved freely. Then I replaced the hoses and no change. They slowly got worse and someone mentioned the 2 switches on the pedal, so I replaced both of them. Still no luck, so I figured bad calipers. I though it was weird that they both went out at the same time, but this car has done me dirty in the past. So I said why not get a big brake kit and some brand new rear calipers for the rear…. And guess what… still frozen. So I checked the master cylinder, when I released the line the brakes seemed to free up. So, after asking a mechanic, I replaced the master cylinder…. Notice a pattern…. And holy crap, still not working. So I’m at a loss. I’ll recap…. New master cylinder, new switches on brake pedal, new calipers in the rear, Wilwood kit in the front, all new stainless hoses and my RF and LR brakes are frozen. They slowly begin to work when they have been sitting for a while. Does anyone else have any ideas?


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[Rocketst]

After you replaced the master, did you flush the entire braking system with new fluid including the abs system?

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[TyphoonFiST]

Did the Master Cylinder come bench bled Or did you Bench bleed it? Also do you have ForScan? If so did you bleed the ABS Module?

 

[txFiST]

I bench bled the master and gravity bled the whole system, I used 2 entire bottles of fluid. After I gravity bled the system, I used the buddy bleeding method. And everything bleeds perfectly. Amazing pedal feel with the stainless lines. I do not have Forscan to bleed to ABS.


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[TyphoonFiST]

The ABS Module may need to be Bled with ForScan program

 

[Rocketst]

I bench bled the master and gravity bled the whole system, I used 2 entire bottles of fluid. After I gravity bled the system, I used the buddy bleeding method. And everything bleeds perfectly. Amazing pedal feel with the stainless lines. I do not have Forscan to bleed to ABS.


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You said you checked the guide pins, were they scratched or dented anywhere? I'm pulling for strings right now cuz it sounds like you did everything right but obviously something is messed up... This may turn into a dealership thing. Before you put the guide pins back in I'm assuming you greased them right? That's easy I'm sure it you remembered to do that too.... Ugh you know I actually had the same issue on my driver's front with the brakes fucking up, they were grinding. I didn't go nearly as deep as you did into the braking system but did replace the brakes with a bbk and replaced my cv axles, hub assemblies and my bushings and with the bbk it solves my issue. I threw parts at it cuz I also couldn't figure this out but my issue had something to do with the way the axles were aligning the hub because full tilt towards the engine the driver's rotor would catch the caliper to hard and scrape on the pads.

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[TyphoonFiST]

I bench bled the master and gravity bled the whole system, I used 2 entire bottles of fluid. After I gravity bled the system, I used the buddy bleeding method. And everything bleeds perfectly. Amazing pedal feel with the stainless lines. I do not have Forscan to bleed to ABS.



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Go down load it* and buy the cable.

 

[Rocketst]

Go down load it* and buy the cable.

Aaron, forscan also makes an app he can use. I've personally used it a few times now and also used an elm to bleed the abs system. I know your a fan of the cable cuz you can't lose connection but it does work using Bluetooth instead.

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[TyphoonFiST]

Do either and* then report back!

 

[Plisky]

Hey, did the ForScan thing solve your issue? Or have you found something else to fix the issue?
I have the same problem and I've done almost everything you have, including the guide pins, Wilwood brake kit, and master cylinder; although I haven't changed the pedal switches.
Annoyingly enough when I had my mechanic drive around with me after I found the issue still happening with the new master cylinder, the brakes worked fine, only for it to happen again the very next day. I've noticed that if I drive for a bit, the issue disappears. That might explain why it didn't happen with him, but honestly that could just be placebo. This car is honestly driving me mad and it's my daily driver, so I need to get it working before college classes start in 2 weeks.

 

[FiST_Pounder]

Has ESC or recalls been ruled out here?

 

[LilPartyBox]

Bump for update!

I'm having a scraping kinda sound that changes with speed, coming from the front (both sides), even after new rotors, pads, and fresh grease on the guide pins. Oddly gets louder when under cornering loads. I have the car in the air. I threw it in first and let the wheels spin and def heard a slight swooshy scrapy sound but the car knows it's off the ground and won't accelerate past a slow roll...I'm flushing the brake fluid tomorrow cuz it's due. I doubt it'll make any difference.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Bump for update!

I'm having a scraping kinda sound that changes with speed, coming from the front (both sides), even after new rotors, pads, and fresh grease on the guide pins. Oddly gets louder when under cornering loads. I have the car in the air. I threw it in first and let the wheels spin and def heard a slight swooshy scrapy sound but the car knows it's off the ground and won't accelerate past a slow roll...I'm flushing the brake fluid tomorrow cuz it's due. I doubt it'll make any difference.

You using Forscan?

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[LilPartyBox]

Nope. This sound only started about a month ago on the older brakes. Followed the new brakes...or maybe it's a wheel bearing or axle issue. I've never dealt with anything like this.

I think I know where ur headed...I've never, ever bled the ABS (or clutch for that matter) on any cars I've ever owned. The miniscule amount of fluid in those systems is mixed away by the new fluid anyway. But if the OP updates that forscan solved it then I will most def go all in and bleed it all...twice lol

Maybe all we need are Wilwoods ;-)

 

[Plisky]

Update on mine. Took it to Ford and they had 5 different people drive it, issue didn't pop up once. I get there and a tech wanted to ride with me while I drove, did that and the car decided not to do it so he told me the car was fine and didn't need anything fixed. Second tech decided to try driving it while I rode, brakes decided to freeze within 10 feet of him driving.
Long story short, I asked them if it could be the brake booster, they told me it can't be because the pedal feels fine. They said I should bleed the entire system but my mechanic already did that and the issue still persists.
I’ve been dealing with this for 8 months now and I'm honestly at my wits end with this car, which sucks because it used to be one of my favorite parts of my day. At this point I'm honestly considering cutting my losses and trading it in for a Honda Beat.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Do these Cars have proportioning valves? Maybe this is affecting the brake balance between the front and back? I think they are in the ABS module itself possibly after searching. Did you check this thread out?

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=74193&share_type=t&link_source=app

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[Plisky]

Yeah that was one of the first I went to, but thanks for looking. I've checked the switches and they seem fine, and it's my front right and left rear dragging.
It first appeared 8 months ago and Ford couldn't find the issue, even tried telling me I had no issues and probably left the handbrake on. They changed their mind when I came in with the front right and left rear smoking, but still couldn't find the cause so they sent me on my way.
I decided to just change rotors and pads after that and it somehow went 6 months of driving everyday with no issues. Issue returned 2 months ago (front right smoking only) and I did the big brake kit, which didn't change anything so it wasn't the calipers. Took it to the mechanic and he says he replaced the master cylinder, along with bleeding everything. I had the issue reappear 2 corners after leaving his shop. And now we're here.
Sorry for the essay and thanks for trying to help, I just want to drive my car to be honest.

 

[TyphoonFiST]

Yeah that was one of the first I went to, but thanks for looking. I've checked the switches and they seem fine, and it's my front right and left rear dragging.
It first appeared 8 months ago and Ford couldn't find the issue, even tried telling me I had no issues and probably left the handbrake on. They changed their mind when I came in with the front right and left rear smoking, but still couldn't find the cause so they sent me on my way.
I decided to just change rotors and pads after that and it somehow went 6 months of driving everyday with no issues. Issue returned 2 months ago (front right smoking only) and I did the big brake kit, which didn't change anything so it wasn't the calipers. Took it to the mechanic and he says he replaced the master cylinder, along with bleeding everything. I had the issue reappear 2 corners after leaving his shop. And now we're here.
Sorry for the essay and thanks for trying to help, I just want to drive my car to be honest.

When he bled...did he bleed the ABS module with ForScan?

 

[Plisky]

When he bled...did he bleed the ABS module with ForScan?

When I asked him if I should, he said no need to, so I took that as him saying he did.
My OBD2 to USB cable just came in so I'll do it myself when I have the time and report back.

 

[LilPartyBox]

Finished up a planned brake fluid flush yesterday and I'm VERY please to report my brake noises are gone. It looks like the calipers were indeed dragging. For the record, I did not bleed the ABS or clutch (never, ever do)

This is the Amsoil brake fluid that was in there since 7/21/19 for 20k miles. The fluid is in bad condition and definitely needed to be flushed. I'm not surprised my calipers were dragging. OP, how does the fluid in ur reservoir look compared to this urine?