RMM install help- rusted nuts

[GregF]

Hey all, jacked my car up to install my new RMM and found some rusted out nuts. Anyone know what these are called/their specifications so I can find replacements? Definitely don't want to put these back on.

Thanks!

 

[FocusedSlayer]

Are you gonna be able to get a socket on 1? If you can , wire brush some pb blaster and breaker bar should get 1 off.

 

[Jabbit]

I don't think you need to take those off, do you? A few shots of pb blaster over a few days and that should do it.

 

[Sam4]

They're gonna snap, but only secure (over-secure?) the downpipe/converter.

 

[RaceRedST-15]

I just changed out my RMM again at 100k miles and that's a close picture to what mine looked like. Getting the nuts off wasn't too bad but I had to grind off the top of the spacers that are under the nuts to get the plate off. I reused the nuts for the time being but will need to find the correct nuts to replace them.

On Tascaparts ( Exhaust Components for 2015 Ford Fiesta ) looks like the nut should be the one marked 7. I'll probably take that diagram into my local dealer and see what they can find.

Edit: can't get these through the dealer. But the size should be M8 1.25, same as the strut mount nuts. I put on my old ones I had leftover from when I put on my coilovers.

 

[Intuit]

Depending on what the torque and grade is, you might be able to get away with using stainless. The "mom & pop" and small chain hardware stores like Ace tend to be better about fasteners (and customer service) versus the big-box.

 

[Alkoran]

Heat and one size smaller socket. The more I work on rusted cars the more I find that heat is better than all the penetrating oils in the world. Also, I use a small butane torch when dealing with this type of nuts which have the advantages of being really lightweight and have a precise flame so you heat up only the nuts and not anything else. When dealing with long bolts and the likes, a bigger torch is almost always mandatory.

 

[dhminer]

Heat and one size smaller socket. The more I work on rusted cars the more I find that heat is better than all the penetrating oils in the world. Also, I use a small butane torch when dealing with this type of nuts which have the advantages of being really lightweight and have a precise flame so you heat up only the nuts and not anything else. When dealing with long bolts and the likes, a bigger torch is almost always mandatory.

Nothing works quite like a torch. You do need to take them off to do a RMM install, but wouldn't say they're a requirement to put back on. Most aftermarket DPs don't have that bracket at all therefore you can't put it back even if you wanted to.

 

[M-Sport fan]

Depending on what the torque and grade is, you might be able to get away with using stainless. The "mom & pop" and small chain hardware stores like Ace tend to be better about fasteners (and customer service) versus the big-box.

^^^THIS!
My local True Value (but indie owned/operated) stores have MUCH more of a stainless selection, especially in our required metric sizes, than any of the big corporate stores ever will.

Ironically, the very large, totally non-affiliated with any national brand/chain indie hardware store right across the river in Joyzee has row after row of stainless hardware in their basement section, but very little in METRIC.

 

[GregF]

Thanks everyone. Some pb blaster and a nut extractor did the job getting the nuts off but the plate itself seems fused to the bracket on the downpipe. Might need heat for that? Had to replace the nuts and take it off the jacks for now.