Sense makes no 🤔

[Intuit]

Key fob only seems to work with the original battery.
I say "original" however I'm sure I've replaced it once before.
Current battery is an Energizer brand CR2032, measuring in around 2.8v.
I replaced with a KTS brand measuring in at 3.1v and nothing. Removed and reinserted twice. Measured power from the contact at the back lid; all good.
I then tried a Panasonic brand measuring in at 3.3v and still nothing. Removing and reinserting twice didn't help there either.
Reinserted original battery and the remote works again.
Um, what logical sense does this make? 😶

 

[rcarbajal4]

That's odd. My first replacement I used Amazon brand, second was a Duracell. Never had your issue. Maybe it's an issue with the fob itself?

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

 

[D1JL]

Reinserted original battery and the remote works again.

If it ain't broke, why fix it?
Maybe you should try another new Energizer brand.

 

[LiLfieSTa]

If it ain't broke, why fix it?
Maybe you should try another new Energizer brand.

lol my car has been telling me to replace the key battery for the past 3 years

 

[CarGuy]

Is the battery inserted properly? Not reversed poles?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[M-Sport fan]

lol my car has been telling me to replace the key battery for the past 3 years

As soon as this popped up on the screen I replaced it that very same hour with a fresh Energizer 2032.

But it had been showing signs of dying even before the message started showing (multiple presses to get it to lock/unlock, shorter distances needed to function, etc.).

 

[FJ16]

My car just asked me to change the battery last week, used an Energizer 2032 and it was happy.

 

[LiLfieSTa]

As soon as this popped up on the screen I replaced it that very same hour with a fresh Energizer 2032.

But it had been showing signs of dying even before the message started showing (multiple presses to get it to lock/unlock, shorter distances needed to function, etc.).

my key is far from dead though, still 1-clicking at pretty good distances.
just my car thinking it is

 

[Intuit]

That's odd. My first replacement I used Amazon brand, second was a Duracell. Never had your issue. Maybe it's an issue with the fob itself?

"When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth."

If it ain't broke, why fix it?
Maybe you should try another new Energizer brand.

Console was telling me the battery is low and I hate warning lights. (note the word, "was" LoL) ...and before you say it, I don't want black tape messing up my screen LoL.

lol my car has been telling me to replace the key battery for the past 3 years

I've found inexpensive replacements for my family's car remotes over the years on Amazon. If forced to buy dealership and they're still $400, I may well be left with "tuning out" the warnings and dings. My second fob will remain an unused backup.

Is the battery inserted properly? Not reversed poles?

I even checked and rechecked battery thicknesses and types to see whether there was any discrepancies there. The contacts had no corrosion and were properly adjusted but I bent them even more just to make extra extra sure they were making contact, post assembly.

As soon as this popped up on the screen I replaced it that very same hour with a fresh Energizer 2032.

But it had been showing signs of dying even before the message started showing (multiple presses to get it to lock/unlock, shorter distances needed to function, etc.).

Could be coincidence that it started working with the original battery, or for some reason it doesn't like anything over 3v now. I'll be trying the Panasonic battery again, before buying an Energizer. I'll be even more perplexed if it only works with an Energizer brand though...

 

[M-Sport fan]

Do you have a source for NEW Panasonic brand 'OEM' batteries?

 

[Intuit]

Do you have a source for NEW Panasonic brand 'OEM' batteries?

https://www.microcenter.com/product...2032-3-volt-lithium-coin-cell-battery-10-pack
EDIT: I don't recall what the first battery was; whether that be Panasonic, Energizer or other. Suppose I could open up my spare. But a battery is a battery... shouldn't matter(?).

 

[M-Sport fan]

But a battery is a battery... shouldn't matter(?).

True, which makes your current scenario quite perplexing.

 

[iammacey]

Bizarre. So you took out the low battery, installed new battery, tested, and it didn't work. You reinstall the used battery and it works?

Did you test the new battery in your second fob? Or move the battery from fob 2 into fob 1?

The CR2032 has to be bad. It must read 3 volts static but has an issue under any kind of load. If the fob works with the used battery, the battery has to be at fault.

 

[Clint Beastwood]

I would guess thickness, or maybe need to sand the contacts in the remote? humidity and sweat could probably oxidize them a bit.

 

[iammacey]

Did you get resolution on this? Curious to know the root cause.

 

[Intuit]

Was expecting it to come back but aven't seen the low battery warning since the "original" 2.8v battery was reinserted.v So I've just left in. I'll pursue this again once the warning icon pops up again; and post-up.

 

[Intuit]

Warning icon finally came back. Energizer brand inserted. Works.
Had half a mind to disassemble and reinsert one of the other two brands to see whether it would again cease working but was short on time and thought it best to leave well enough alone.

 

[M-Sport fan]

The 'bunnies' have always worked for me in this car's remote fob.

 

[Intuit]

Had an interesting experience when servicing a refurbished computer that was misbehaving out of the box.

Turned it on, complained of no date/time set.
Pulled the case and still running, tested the no name-brand 3020 button battery; voltage read good. (maybe like 3.2v)
Set date/time, turned off, turned back on. Still good.
Turned off, unplugged for several seconds.
Plugged back in, turned on, same issue.
Turned off, read battery voltage. Again, good.
Pulled battery, again read good.
Unplugged, stuck battery in, read voltage; good.
Keeping a constant reading, I plugged in and turned on.
Voltage then tanked a few times before recovering back to normal as if nothing happened.
Replaced battery and repeated test; no problem.
Diagnosis: Bad battery. Voltage read fine as long as there was little or no current drawn.

Regarding that car remote, my experiences here suggest that the new, name brand battery, was likely just bad; even though the (no load) voltage read good.