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Speaker upgrade info needed!

antarctica24

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#21
I want that Jimmy experience. Please tell me what to buy for my car:
You have two options, Option 1 is to bypass the factory system. You use the head unit, but you come out of the head unit and use a JL Fix 82, from there using analog RCA, you go to a signal processor. There are several you can buy from $200 to $1500. The $200.00 is a precision Power 88R. The $1500 one is a Mosconi Aerospace 8to12. I have the latter. They both do the exact same thing. The difference is the same difference between buying a Samsung Flat Screen at Walmart and a Samsung Flat screen at a Magnoila Store at Best Buy. I am not saying the precision power piece is junk. Bare with me here. Manufacturers build products of different quality to reach different customers. The Precision power piece will do everything that needs to be done to get you there. There are lots of options in between like Phoenix gold, Audison, Helix, JL Audio Fix 85, Audio Control, Rockford Fosgate. All of these will have a 31 band EQ some for every channel, Crossovers for every channel, Level control for every channel, and some other features. The differences are in what components each company uses to accomplish the task. Better components better sound. Speakers are no different. Some companies do it better than others. The better the speaker you start with, the easier it will be to get it to the point of Mr. Hendrix playing on the hood of the car.

There are some rules, and I cant replay all of them here, but if you PM me, I will give you my direct contact information, and I will help you figure it out based on your budget. I will be out of touch next week but will respond to you when I get back and my services are free. I am not selling anything, and I do not charge to help you figure it out and will help you tune your car for free. You should also read through the stuff I have posted in the audio section on tuning, and stages of audio for this car.

The rules revolve around speaker size selection. You cant use a 1 inch tweeter, with a 4" midrange and a 12" sub. There needs to be balance. I am not a fan of the 6.5" midrange. From a physics standpoint they are too slow to accurately reproduce midrange frequencies. You can use them, because they fit and they do have good properties for some things, but not for reproducing midrange. If you PM me I can go more into that.

You do not need a sub larger than a 10". You may look at my pictures and see that I am using 2 10" subs. But I am also doing a 10 channel system. I am using dual 4" on each side of the dash for midrange with the door speaker being a midbass driver. This is a very complicated system to tune, but the results are overwhelming to the ear :)

As for amps, there are lot of people with lots of opinions, but here are the facts. If you buy a bunch of class a/b amps which are better sounding than class d amps, you are going to have power problems. The class d amps are more efficient and you can run 2 without any issues on your charging system, and 3 with reinforcement. By reinforcement I mean a capacitor. I have a 15 farad capacitor for my setup.

And here is the magical ingredient. The key to making Jimi play on the hood, is this. SIGNAL VOLTAGE. You need to feed as much signal voltage into the aftermarket amplifier that the voltage rail will handle. JL Audio amps will take 8 volts. I am using the PDX series from Alpine, they will take 5-6 volts. The factory radio is putting out about 2 volts. No WHERE NEAR WHAT IS NEEDED. For example, if you had a 1000 watt amp and were only putting 2 volts into it, it would not sound 1/8th as good as a 100 watt amp getting 8 volts of signal. Were talking night and day difference.

Send me a PM and I will help you out and anyone else who is interested may do the same.
 


Woods247

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#22
Thank you! I'll begin reading up in the audio forum and come up with budget that'll make it worthwhile. A lot of the components you mentioned I've never heard of. I haven't swapped a car stereo since 92. The info you provided is invaluable and I appreciate your time. After I educate myself I'll be in touch. Is Crutchfied still the best source for equipment? I
 


antarctica24

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#23
Thank you! I'll begin reading up in the audio forum and come up with budget that'll make it worthwhile. A lot of the components you mentioned I've never heard of. I haven't swapped a car stereo since 92. The info you provided is invaluable and I appreciate your time. After I educate myself I'll be in touch. Is Crutchfied still the best source for equipment? I
Crutchfield is certainly a viable source, however, crutchfield is not allowed to discount their current products below MSRP. So Ebay and Amazon, and a couple of other sources are better choices money wise and you get the exact same product. A local shop will also discount current product if you buy everything there.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #24
I wish you were local Antarctica haha

I guess I'd ask you: is it possible to get some more bass, without buying a sub, all while spending less than $400?

I really appreciate all of the insight!
 


antarctica24

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#26
I wish you were local Antarctica haha

I guess I'd ask you: is it possible to get some more bass, without buying a sub, all while spending less than $400?

I really appreciate all of the insight!
No problem go to eBay. Search on car powered subwoofer. Kicker, Rockford, infinity, plus some others allake one. Read the description. What you want is one that comes with high level inputs. You will come off the rear speaker leads and run that into the sub high level inputs. You will need to run power from the battery. You would be about 250.00 in it. An extra 100.00 gets you an audio control lci so you can go low level into the sub and have more control over it.
 


antarctica24

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#27
I just want a system that will give me the same feeling I got when I heard the THX "the audience is listening" sound bite for the first time in a movie theater.
You can have that. That is more in the 2500 price range. I might could help you get it configured for less. A set of pioneers TS components up front. A three way would be better but would I require a little more work. i think I could pull it off with a 2 way. TS coaxials in the rear and 10" sub with a lot of throw in a sealed enclosure. We would need a processor with 8 channels. Then we need 8 channels of amplification aka 2 4 channel amps 1 amp powers the front 100 x 4 to each tweeter and each woofer. The back two are powered by 2 channels of 2nd amp and sub is powered by bridged channels of the last two channels on second amp. Then we need jl audio fix 82 to get us around the factory tune. I feel good we could price that out for under 2000.00 you would have to shop it but maybe less than 1500.00.
 


antarctica24

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#28
I wish you were local Antarctica haha

I guess I'd ask you: is it possible to get some more bass, without buying a sub, all while spending less than $400?

I really appreciate all of the insight!
Tom the beauty is I can help you get it right over the phone. For that matter I could help you tune it over the phone. I do it all the time.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #29
Tom the beauty is I can help you get it right over the phone. For that matter I could help you tune it over the phone. I do it all the time.
True haha I'll have to keep that in mind if I end up upgrading. I appreciate it!

As much as I'd like to, however, I want to add some "go fast" parts to my car first.
 


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#30
Have you guys tried playing with the fader a bit? I have mine sounding pretty damn good just by fading more to rear. The fronts are so overpowering when balanced equally. I've had a couple passengers ask me if I had a bass tube.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 


antarctica24

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#32
Have you guys tried playing with the fader a bit? I have mine sounding pretty damn good just by fading more to rear. The fronts are so overpowering when balanced equally. I've had a couple passengers ask me if I had a bass tube.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I guess it really depends on what you like. If you want the sound all around you, then the fader can certainly help in that area. The system was designed by sony as a front stage rear fill. That means the front gets a majority of the power because 95% of the time the car is occupied by the front seats. Im not saying you couldn't buy this as the family truxter but it probably would not be someone's first choice. [:)]
 


antarctica24

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Ok we do have to talk about the eq settings. You have done the same thing people have been doing since car audio was invented which is the proverbial smiley face. Raise the highs, raise the base, sink the mids. This is the first sign that the system is broken and by broken I mean, not tuned correctly. This is true for any car audio or home audio system. Obviously you have to take into account each persons hearing ability, but this should be taken as a bad sign. What it tells you is that your system lacks highs and lows, but has too much midrange. By raising the EQ bands like that, you are artificially adding something to the source that was not their originally and its ok, if you like it, but for those who have been reading my posts, this is a tell tell sign of where a lot of the problems lie with the factory system and when you go to correct it by just replacing the speakers all you did was compound the problem if you didn't retune the system.
 


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#34
Ok we do have to talk about the eq settings. You have done the same thing people have been doing since car audio was invented which is the proverbial smiley face. Raise the highs, raise the base, sink the mids. This is the first sign that the system is broken and by broken I mean, not tuned correctly. This is true for any car audio or home audio system. Obviously you have to take into account each persons hearing ability, but this should be taken as a bad sign. What it tells you is that your system lacks highs and lows, but has too much midrange. By raising the EQ bands like that, you are artificially adding something to the source that was not their originally and its ok, if you like it, but for those who have been reading my posts, this is a tell tell sign of where a lot of the problems lie with the factory system and when you go to correct it by just replacing the speakers all you did was compound the problem if you didn't retune the system.
That's not what mine look like. My highest is bass, then mid, then treble. Those pictures about made me puke.
 


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#35
[MENTION=929]antarctica24[/MENTION] woudl the JL FiX 86 offer anything over the 82? I'm kinda having a hard time figureing out their respective niches.
 


jmrtsus

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#36
ScreenHunter_234 Apr. 14 19.19.jpg



This chart shows why a "tuned" system will still sound like garbage to many........why they go straight to the equalizer and why we even have them. The answer is so after you spends the thousands to "fix" your system you can make it sound good to you. I have had my hearing tested and it differs from the chart shown due to way too many VERY loud concerts. Question, do you listen to your music with your ears or someone else's. I use my own and could care less how it sounds to others ears. For example....I am 65 years old and have NORMAL hearing for my age. Which means a system "tuned" flat will sound dead and lifeless to me. Just to get close to normal levels for the high frequencies to sound good to me my equalizer will be highly boasted on the high end.

The only changes I will be making in the long run is more efficient speakers and metal dome tweeters. Why more efficient speakers over more power? Money! Buy an amp and have it installed? Not me. I looked at some of the available common 6 1/2" coax speakers and saw that two different brands showed widely differing efficiency numbers as expected. Same price but one has an SPL output of 88dB for 1 Watt in and the other has an 94 dB rating for 1 Watt in. This is 6 dB, what does that mean? Each 3 dB increase in sound requires a doubling of power. Our 88dB speaker will take 2 watts to reach 91dB and 4 Watts to reach 94 dB. In this case the 88dB speaker will take FOUR times the power to sound as loud as the 94dB speakers. So, new amp or more efficient speakers for a louder volume? Better speakers for me. I have no clue what any specs are on the factory speakers are, but my experience is that most quality 6 1/2 cones are similar in response enough that the difference would not be so drastic it would make for a bad sound. You do have some adjustments to compensate.

In short the answer is yes you can improve your factory system without spending more than $200. If you need more bass then put the $200 towards an under seat powered sub. $400 maybe both. Will it be perfect? No, but then I did not buy my ST for a listening room, I have that at home. And at home all the equipment was built and tested to have a reasonably flat response.....but I can assure you it is not "tuned" to flat. The bass is boosted slightly because my music sounds better with a little drive in the bass. And the highs are boosted in both the preamp and the speaker system to compensate for my hearing losses. And that will also apply to my car. The ultimate judge for what sounds good to you is YOU! However if you have the $$ to spend thousands go for it! Lots of good advise of how to go about it on the Forum along with sound deadening.
 


antarctica24

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#37
View attachment 14047



This chart shows why a "tuned" system will still sound like garbage to many........why they go straight to the equalizer and why we even have them. The answer is so after you spends the thousands to "fix" your system you can make it sound good to you. I have had my hearing tested and it differs from the chart shown due to way too many VERY loud concerts. Question, do you listen to your music with your ears or someone else's. I use my own and could care less how it sounds to others ears. For example....I am 65 years old and have NORMAL hearing for my age. Which means a system "tuned" flat will sound dead and lifeless to me. Just to get close to normal levels for the high frequencies to sound good to me my equalizer will be highly boasted on the high end.

The only changes I will be making in the long run is more efficient speakers and metal dome tweeters. Why more efficient speakers over more power? Money! Buy an amp and have it installed? Not me. I looked at some of the available common 6 1/2" coax speakers and saw that two different brands showed widely differing efficiency numbers as expected. Same price but one has an SPL output of 88dB for 1 Watt in and the other has an 94 dB rating for 1 Watt in. This is 6 dB, what does that mean? Each 3 dB increase in sound requires a doubling of power. Our 88dB speaker will take 2 watts to reach 91dB and 4 Watts to reach 94 dB. In this case the 88dB speaker will take FOUR times the power to sound as loud as the 94dB speakers. So, new amp or more efficient speakers for a louder volume? Better speakers for me. I have no clue what any specs are on the factory speakers are, but my experience is that most quality 6 1/2 cones are similar in response enough that the difference would not be so drastic it would make for a bad sound. You do have some adjustments to compensate.

In short the answer is yes you can improve your factory system without spending more than $200. If you need more bass then put the $200 towards an under seat powered sub. $400 maybe both. Will it be perfect? No, but then I did not buy my ST for a listening room, I have that at home. And at home all the equipment was built and tested to have a reasonably flat response.....but I can assure you it is not "tuned" to flat. The bass is boosted slightly because my music sounds better with a little drive in the bass. And the highs are boosted in both the preamp and the speaker system to compensate for my hearing losses. And that will also apply to my car. The ultimate judge for what sounds good to you is YOU! However if you have the $$ to spend thousands go for it! Lots of good advise of how to go about it on the Forum along with sound deadening.
You know, I dont know you personally, but I always appreciate others opinions. It makes things educational for their to be debate. I want to take a minute and respond to some things you have said here from someone else who has experience. Now to be fair, I have said what that was in the past, and I want to clarify not so much to toot my own horn but for those who are listening to understand why I say what I say and how I am backing that up and not knowing you, it is possible that you have similar experience, and if you do, it makes this conversation all the more interesting. If you dont, then it helps so that others fully understand what your saying and why it is not so. I have been involved in high end audio for over 25 years. That includes, Competing with a $100,000 sound system in a car, Judging Sound Quality for over 15 years, Owning not 1 but 2 audio stores, one was dedicated to car, the other car and high end home theater with average installs over $50,000 and being written up in both domestic and international audio magazines and tuned more than 10 cars that have taken 1st place on a national level in sound quality. So not as much experience as some but more than others.

So a little out of order, but first, Who wants a flat curved system? Why does everyone keep bringing that up? And while this may not be directed at anything I have said personally, not one time have I said you need to make your system flat as the end result. Every car is different and in fact what the factory is doing when they tune a car for a factory system, is tuning the car for the acoustics of the cavity aka the interior of the vehicle. The Fiesta like any other car has its own acoustic signature which is affected by the car, and the components that make up the interior of the car, aka the seats, carpet, dash, glass, headliner, everything. This acoustic signature also changes when there is one body in the car and then again when a second body is in the car, and so on. The factory system is tuned with a set of speakers that have their own properties. They are called Theil Small Parameters. I am not going to get into all of the specifics, but if you are interested you can purchase a book called the Loudspeaker Cookbook. You can buy it on Amazon. If you take the factory speakers out of the car, and replace them with anything other than the factory speakers, the new speakers will have a different set of parameters. These parameters, will cause the speaker to behave differently than the factory speakers, and thus the tuning done by the factory will be applied differently thus affecting the sound curve correction for the acoustics in the Fiesta. AKA OUT OF TUNE.

If you want to keep the factory system, and replace the speakers, 100% of the time the speakers you replace the factory speakers with will be more efficient and thus for every watt played out of the amp, the new speakers will play louder, and thus sound perceptively better. Loud is not better. Loud is louder. If you are deaf, then I guess louder would be better. Now lets go to your graph. The human ear, with all things considered equal, most people can hear with perfect hearing up to about 15K some even can perceive up to 17K. The audio spectrum that we consider to be the cats meow, is between 20 hertz and 20K hertz. Sub level to highs. 99% of what we are listening to is what is considered to be useable music is between hertz and about 5K. Everything above 5K is really staring to be perceived as ambiance. If your curious, Its the difference between what it sounds like in a quiet closet about 3 ft by 3 ft square (everything between 6K and 8K and a 40 x 40 ft living room which would be 10K to 20K). Look a the graph. Every line drops off at about 2K and the older you get the more that drops off. So that means that everything from 20 Hertz up to 2K other than overall volume levels is good to go even as you age. So that means you are capable, considering all things equal, of deciphering the difference between what does and what does not sound good. Everything I have said all along is if you dont know what sounds good, then any improvement to you(not your personally) would sound better than what you had. But that better does not mean it is the best you can have. Now if your deaf or have hearing problems of course, you may not like the sound the way I like it, and I want to clarify, it is not about what I like, or what others like, it is about listening to the music the way the artist intended for it to be heard when it is reproduced. From an acoustical engineering perspective, if what you were saying were true and for that fact this nonsense about just taking more efficient speakers and putting them in your car, makes it better, then you could buy any speaker and just sit it on the rear desk and hook it and put power it in any car, and it would sound great as long as they were more efficient. That is the most out of the this world statement I have ever heard. And in fact NO TRUE.

Yes, you add more bass to your car, buy adding a subwoofer. Yes you can make your system play louder buy buying more efficient speakers. And if that is all you are trying to accomplish, that is very easy to do. But in my opinion, it is a waste of time and energy. You might as well just get you a boom box as they were and put it in the back seat. It is the same thing. I am trying to help those who want to be educated and have the opportunity to hear something they have never experienced. Those that would say, they can just upgrade the speakers and it sounds better are the same people who could but a bicycle and put a motor on it and call it a performance bike. NOT EVEN CLOSE.

You can spend hundreds of thousands of dollars in a dedicated home listening room and never get the experience possible in a vehicle for the simple fact that the vehicle can be the perfect listening room because it is small and confined. It is personal and when added to a car with a performance engine, you now get the best of both worlds. Until you have had a system like that in your car, I don't believe you can make those kind of comments. It is life changing experience. And I can tell you after selling, installing, judging, these kinds of systems, once you have heard one, you cant ever do without it. I have a very modest sound system in my home. Paid of Klipsch towers, pair of 12" Klipsch powered subs. The system as you will see shortly in the Fiesta is 100 times more advanced than what I have in the home. Why, in my lifetime I will spend more than 1/2 of my life in a car, than I will in the home and When on a road trip I cant take the home system with me.

Now lastly. The whole flat thing. If you are going to keep the factory system and you want to upgrade the factory speakers, you have to retune the system. When you replace the speakers the tune made by Sony is still intact. I know because I replaced the factory radio, and left the factory speakers as the first step of my upgrade and the system should have gone flat but it didnt. That means there is an external box outside of the radio that the tune is coming from and I suspect it is behind the glove box. My system got louder with the factory speakers, why, the amp in the radio is more powerful than the amp in the factory radio. The system still images just like it did, it is just louder. That is not the same as swapping out the speakers and keeping the factory radio. I did not change the acoustic properties of the speakers and they way they perform, I just gave the more juice.

Moving on......So, If you replace the speakers thus changing the acoustic properties of what the tune is based off of, you have to put the system back to flat first. You do that with the Fix 82 if you are keeping the factory system. If you start tuning without putting the factory system back to flat first, your tune will be hosed royally because you will be adding additional information not in the original recording twice over. The factory is bad because, they didnt put the speakers in the optimal location to start with, and they used the least expensive option they had. Then they over tunes the piss out of it, just to get it to image correctly, but using a lot of EQ and a lot of time alignment corrections. The audio guys at the factory are the last people to get the design to figure out where they can put the speakers. When you do stuff like leave the factory tune and then move the tweeter, you just make it worse, because now the time alignment adjustments that were set for the factory tweeter in the factory location, are now way out of wack because you changed speakers and changed location. VERY VERY BAD. But if you dont know any better, to you, your excited because it sounds louder, because you think louder is better. Loud is what causes the issues shown in the graph over time. Its like people listen to their system with music from their IPOD, and they say, man I cant tell any difference between the CD and IPOD. Yeah ok. Whatever. Again, not knowing ever being exposed to the better system will do that. By they way, notice in Barnes and Noble music section whats showing up again? Yep Records. Why? Needles do a better job of reproducing the music than CD's. It has nothing to do with being a purist. A record will reproduce 20htz to 20K hertz, without the jitter created by a Digital to Analog DAC. Lots of reading on the web if anyone cares.

Where was I, oh year, flat. The Fix 82, reads the signal coming out of the factory head unit and makes EQ corrections to get it back to a flat signal. Then you use a processor and an RTA to retune the system to get it back to where it should be for the acoustic signature in the car. Once that is done, you arrive a musical bliss, and the speakers you just invested in will be worth 10x's what you paid for them.

If you just want your car to sound better, and dont want to spend any money. Your better off, just buying an amp, and tying it into the system. At least that way, the acoustics of the car that Sony spent millions on figuring out wont be a waste you get the same effect but dont have to retune. If your going to spend more than $250.00 on speakers, your wasting your money. Oh yeah buy a powered bazooka tube with your amp. No re tuning required.

Im not attacking you, I just want to make sure everyone has a clear understanding.
 


antarctica24

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#38
The fix 86 has the processor built in, but it is more limited than an outboard Processor. Your money can be better spent on buying the fix 85 and the Precision Power 88R especially with how inexpensive they are on ebay.
 


jmrtsus

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I stand by everything I said.........and thanks but I don't need advice on electronics, I retired from teaching it for 35 years, I hold an Extra class FCC license. I also made a good living writing 26 training courses for customers like the U.S. Navy, Lockheed and AT&T on electronics. I have had a 5 page article published in QST on designing a switchable bandwidth speaker system. I built my first speaker system in 1965......we used a slide rule back then for the T/S parameters. I have designed tube type audio amps and custom speaker systems for customers for many years. Been in audio too long listen to some of your sales rhetoric with out a chuckle. Like many you are so wrapped up in digital corrections and fixes to make a car interior sound "good". Learn something about how audio actually works, not how to use digital toys to create a certain sound in a space that colors the sound like crazy. Nothing changes the fact that humans do not hear the same nor like the same "sound" as others.

You use the word "tune" lots, what are you "tuning for", the sound you like or a response curve? Why would you do this for a source like radio, mp3 and CD. As to tuning a car that is a joke other than competition. In real life the tuning in a car is only valid in one configuration. Open a window or Moon roof, put the back seats down, removing the rear shelf or adding one or more passengers, carrying stuff in the car all drastically change the acoustics and so called "tune". Garbage in garbage out.

Just because you feel one way and I another does not matter, what matters is the obvious. People prioritise things differently and some have zero desire to do anything but make some changes in the audio that they can afford and like. Take some time and look up response curves for 6 1/2 " speakers currently available to fit our cars, start with the stock one, then take an average response curve and prove how much negative difference it would cause in the car, I bet you can't your back your statements. The stock sony speakers are trash, you know that. I am sure some junk speaker can make the stock system sound worse if you buy the $19.99 800 Watt speakers. But if you spend $100 a pair for quality speakers you will improve the honky mids. You can't deny the audio chart. Almost all the custom amps I have made have tone and contour filters per the customer's requirements.

I put the info out there for people to see there are alternatives to spending thousands.

Good chance I sold my first speaker system before you knew what a speaker was. As to vinyl that is what is in my listening room, linear tracking turntable, 18 Watt per channel class AB2 with US made tubes and iron running a modified Altec Lansing speaker system. You are telling people they are wasting money unless they do it your way, that is wrong! Many people will be in love with a bazooka in the back. Or just plain want loud over quality. This debate has not changed since the 1960's when you had the East Coast and West Coast sound speaker battles and endless debates on the same old which one sounded better and to who. The technology before reaching the speaker has changed much in 100 years, other than acoustic suspension almost nothing has changed in the drivers or acoustics.
 


GAbOS

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#40
There's a lot of great statements in each post but I have to lean with jmrtsus especially with his take on the controlled environment bit. I plan on doing so matting in key places but focusing a lot of looser areas of the car. I plan on keep the exhaust stock until I go bigger turbo and as quiet as I can when that happens. I can deal. I have collected Arc audio Black 6.5's and 1.0's for the front along with a PPI 88 (Thanks Rick!). The rear speakers will be disconnected. The amps are not the greatest but will not be using them heavy. Got some older but brand new Planet audio 4chan and mono amps. Thinking of running the front discreetly off the 4 chan so I can have complete control of the tweeters and fulls for staging. Unfortunately have to fill the mid with a sub, right. Have not decided yet but don't want to go bigger than 10 and would like it to fit in the center under a false floor where the rear seats used to be. Still deciding if I want to get something like a JBL unit to flatten the curve before the PPI processor yet still or just take the PPI alone to someone with a scope.

Any thoughts about the above setup?

edit: of course I listen at any legible volume 99% of the time. The 1% would be a guy friend that would want to hear it and that's a profile button hit away with the processor.
 




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