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Spice under the Knife. ( Now S280 powered!)Dpro’s 2018 Orange Spice STGOKRT official Build! Part two the rebuild coming!

dhminer

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Ya Raffii does not have 3mm . 3mm is a pretty custom size most people do not make or stock 3mm . Most start at 5mm . In fact you can get 5mm spacers from just about anyone all day long for cars.
Most of us want 3mm because unless you have close to stock offset wheels a 10 or 15mm spacer is going to put us down in the 25-32 mm offset range which is really not good for turn in and or wheel well clearance.
He has Dekagrams like I do I believe and they come with a 40 offset already. A 5mm offset would drop the offset to 35 which is lowest one can go without possibly affecting turn in. Even at that offset most likely turn in will be affected.
Most people really love the turn in on our cars stock and when they start getting away from it are not happy.
This is why I went with the lowest possible size spacer for my Caliper clearance I could find. I dropped my offset to 37 from the stock 47. I really would hesitate to go lower. The only other way to go lower would be if one was doing flared fenders and going with 9 inch wheels which is trading off turn in for higher ultimate grip.
It’s all a balancing act and what one is going for and or likes . I will take turn in on a street/ canyon car vs an all out track car where higher ultimate grip might be more advantageous again it’s really up to the driver.
Thanks homie. Yes sir same wheels and brakes as you, just different colors.
 


M-Sport fan

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A 5mm offset would drop the offset to 35 which is lowest one can go without possibly affecting turn in. Even at that offset most likely turn in will be affected.
Most people really love the turn in on our cars stock and when they start getting away from it are not happy.
I actually wish that there was a way to accurately and precisely 'mill' the inside center 'plate' rotor contact area of the Dekas in order to increase that offset number a bit, to just before the point of problems with the factory brakes clearing.

Since I do not have to worry about any BBK clearance at all currently, and do not like even the small amount of 'poke' that 40ET yields (even though I know that offset, and it's resultant 'flushness' is one of the reasons many buy this wheel). [wink]
 


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Dpro

Dpro

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Thread Starter #143
I actually wish that there was a way to accurately and precisely 'mill' the inside center 'plate' rotor contact area of the Dekas in order to increase that offset number a bit, to just before the point of problems with the factory brakes clearing.

Since I do not have to worry about any BBK clearance at all currently, and do not like even the amount of 'poke' that 40ET yields (even though I know that offset, and it's resultant 'flushness' is one of the reasons many buy this wheel). [wink]
Heh that would be a lot of work and cost ineffective. I think most people buy these wheels because A: they look pretty good B: They are 16’s which actually gives us more tire options as you can actually run 225/45/16 Direzza’s if one wanted too at close to if not stock ride height. C: They are semi forged flow form which makes them both stronger than cast wheels and light as hell.
The offset is what the offset is and I do not think most who buy Dekagrams are looking at flush ness. The super flush crowd tend to push the limits on offsets and 40 is nothing to them. Average for that crowd with our cars is more along the lines of 35 and even 25 with flares.
Oh and most that go flush want either deep dish or some aggressive concave. They usually are not into shallow non concave spoke wheels as it’s kinda meh looking FWD average. Go big or go home is the phrase.
 


jeffreylyon

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I actually wish that there was a way to accurately and precisely 'mill' the inside center 'plate' rotor contact area of the Dekas in order to increase that offset number a bit, to just before the point of problems with the factory brakes clearing.

Since I do not have to worry about any BBK clearance at all currently, and do not like even the amount of 'poke' that 40ET yields (even though I know that offset, and it's resultant 'flushness' is one of the reasons many buy this wheel). [wink]
When I had access to my father’s machine shop (aerospace firm) I did exactly this on a big mill to make wheels from some platform I can’t remember fit my FF. It wasn’t that tough and I’m no machinist. These days you’d probably use a lathe to turn down the face and recut the center bore.
 


M-Sport fan

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Heh that would be a lot of work and cost ineffective. I think most people buy these wheels because A: they look pretty good B: They are 16’s which actually gives us more tire options as you can actually run 225/45/16 Direzza’s if one wanted too at close to if not stock ride height. C: They are semi forged flow form which makes them both stronger than cast wheels and light as hell.
The offset is what the offset is and I do not think most who buy Dekagrams are looking at flush ness. The super flush crowd tend to push the limits on offsets and 40 is nothing to them. Average for that crowd with our cars is more along the lines of 35 and even 25 with flares.
Oh and most that go flush want either deep dish or some aggressive concave. They usually are not into shallow non concave spoke wheels as it’s kinda meh looking FWD average. Go big or go home is the phrase.
Yes, true, why I said ONE of the possible reasons. [wink] [thumb]

The only thing(s) I do not like about my Dekas is that offset (more so on the back axle than the front) and my minutia level OCD loathing of those 'lightening holes' (or are they 'heat escape/venting holes'?? LOL) around the bolt circle. LOL
 


OP
Dpro

Dpro

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Thread Starter #146
When I had access to my father’s machine shop (aerospace firm) I did exactly this on a big mill to make wheels from some platform I can’t remember fit my FF. It wasn’t that tough and I’m no machinist. These days you’d probably use a lathe to turn down the face and recut the center bore.
Ya if one has access to a machine shop:ROFLMAO:. Otherwise at least around here you would pay someone good money to do that.
 


dhminer

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Damn eBay ship only selling 10mm or larger spacers so looks like it’s 5mm for me. I don’t run any negative camber, hoping no rubbing action.
 


OP
Dpro

Dpro

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So ya I posted this in what you did too your car today and figured I needed to make the obligatory post here. Installed my drivers side Vibratechnics Fast Road trans mount. Have to say little to no added vibration and helped a lot with the high hp tq steer hook to the right. All in a worthwhile upgrade now all 3 mounts are Vibratechnics. Great product.
B62B1866-E0C8-4FDF-806B-EF1E89C62062.jpeg
 


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Dpro

Dpro

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Damn. Sorry man. Hopefully you’re able to build another.
Oh my plan is to buy her back from Insurance and fix her. It’s just a matter of waiting for numbers from everyone now. I have done the research and it breaks down like this…
A: There are just not that many affordable FiST’s out there compared to what I paid for mine new i.e FiST’s of equal mileage to mine are being sold for more than mine was purchased for.
B: Transferring parts would a laborious and expensive affair.

So because of that they will probably total me out replacement value wise at equal or more than my car was new. I have a really good insurance.
Which means all that matters is how much I can buy her back for and how much can I get the basic work done for without paint so I can wrap it.
 


OP
Dpro

Dpro

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Thread Starter #155
Update time car got totaled out for more than I paid for it new by about $1300:ROFLMAO: Though completely fixable and after picking up a low mileage 19 for a good deal I was convinced that I was gonna do a new build. Well plans are most likely changing.. I sat in STGOKRT on sat and was like damn this does still smell new in here. I drove it today and traction control light turned off no hill assist warning went away I am guessing the accident triggered the yaw sensor. Anways drives fine gonna repair it for like a little under half of what they paid me for it and keep it stay tuned.
 


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Dpro

Dpro

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Thread Starter #158
ok some repair porn.. yes quarter panel was completely fixable no need to replace B pill has been pulled but will be replace rear door is going to be new passenger front is on back order so we are picking a up clean low mileage used. IMG_9098.jpeg IMG_9097.jpeg IMG_9096.jpeg
 


FiestaSTdude

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ok some repair porn.. yes quarter panel was completely fixable no need to replace B pill has been pulled but will be replace rear door is going to be new passenger front is on back order so we are picking a up clean low mileage used. View attachment 56784 View attachment 56785 View attachment 56786
Glad to see it’s getting fixed! There’s a declining number of FiSTs out there so it’s good to know that at least this one will still be around.
 


OP
Dpro

Dpro

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Thread Starter #160
Glad to see it’s getting fixed! There’s a declining number of FiSTs out there so it’s good to know that at least this one will still be around.
Two things one is the fact that I knew it was not uunfixable! Hell if it was not for software I am pretty sure I could have retained the clean title. As the software is set to wholesale value for totaling on most damage appraisal systems.
Two is sitting in the car with the interior still smelling like a new car at 26k was like an oh this has to be fixed moment.

The current car I am driving is a pretty damn nice clean car yet at 24k the interior does not smell like a new car anymore. Previous owner had a family and the interior on it saw some serious use compared to mine which was primarily me and a friend on occasion. Plus besides vacuuming and dusting I have never applied cleaning materials to my interior as a lot of them do more harm than good and are usually only needed when really messed up stuff happens, ahem… barf… etc….
P.S.
Armor all is horrible shit and should never be used anywhere near any car that company has been reponsible for more cracked dash’s and wrecked rubber and interior pieces do not use Armor All on your cars.
 


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