Suspension Replacement: What to do "While I'm in There..."

XanRules

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#1
Hi folks,

My 2017 is creeping up on 90k, which means it's well overdue for a new suspension. I have a set of Bilstein B14s and rear upper coil spring pads ready to go on. I'll be doing the motor mounts as well since my aftermarket ones have about 85k on 'em.

However, given the mileage of the car, I imagine that there's some other stuff down there that's worn and needs replacing, plus maybe some stuff I'm not aware of that I'll need when I'm working on it, so I wanted to check in with everyone on what needs to be - or should be - done.

I have not opened the B14s - do they need strut mounts, or do they come with their own? I will presumably need a set of front strut bolts, such as those sold by @Dialcaliper in this thread (hello!), but what else? Are there any bushings/mounts/etc I should be looking at replacing? I see that, for example, Whoosh sells bushings for the front and rear control arms, rear beam to chassis, and the steering rack. Should these be considered wear items that I should replace while I am in there?

Basically - What else do I need, or SHOULD I do, while the car is up on a lift with the suspension off? I am looking only for suspension-related suggestions (ie, nothing related to brakes, wheels, tires, etc) and for maintenance rather than upgrades (ie, "add a rear sway bar" "add a traction bar," etc are outside the scope of this question)

Cheers!
 


akiraproject24

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#2
When I replaced both shock and strut assemblies on my Honda CRZ, I also did the outer tie rod ends and the sway bar end links.

With the sway bar end links it was more about not having to deal with and reinstall the crusty mounting hardware, using new nuts everything was shiny and happy when done.

Another small step I took was while down there, I hit all the hardware and surfaces that seemed rust prone with Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector. Seems to be keeping things clean over the years.
 


foodtruck

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#3
I have not opened the B14s - do they need strut mounts, or do they come with their own?
You'll need
* Front top mounts / bearings / boots
* Rear top mounts / boots (I took them off OEM ones I was replacing, they were in good condition)

Important: When they say dont tighten front top nut until the car is on the ground, that's good advice. It takes much less effort to counter-hold the shaft with that hex key and tighten the nut to spec than when its on a desk in a vice etc and you just may avoid stripping the hex (ask me how I know)

You won't need rear spring insulators; the kit comes with its own thin pads
Keep and reuse OEM rear top nuts; the ones that come with the kit are too wide and will rub on the body panel
I thought of replacing links but they were in good condition.

If I was to do this now, I would probably also replace control arms and the associated rubber bushings.

Re: sway bars, people say b14s need those but I found them to be surprisingly good without any add-ons. The car rotates wonderfully, with maybe some small PSI adjustment in the rear.
 


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XanRules

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Thread Starter #4
Cool, thanks, and noted on the rear insulators - they were given to me for free so I'm not out any money, but I'll keep the rest of this in mind as far as top mounts, bearings, boots, control arms, and bushings.

EDIT: psst... @foodtruck ... do you have the part numbers for the bearings and boots?
 


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XanRules

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Thread Starter #6
Thanks! So, I'll probably end up grabbing the KYB front and rear mounts, but after that, that's two 8V5Z-18198-B and two 8V5Z-18A047-A... do I need the "bumpers" as well? And then nothing for the rears, since it looks like the rear boots aren't sold separately without buying an entire strut assembly?
 


foodtruck

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#7
do I need the "bumpers" as well?
Front ones - no; B14s have internal bump stops
Rear ones - yes

And then nothing for the rears, since it looks like the rear boots aren't sold separately without buying an entire strut assembly?
Yeah, that's why I took off and reused boot/bumpstop combo from the OEM shocks. AFAIK you can put together a comparable combo with differently styled boot from KYB offering but I don't know which are the right parts.

Anecdotally, another FiST owner got KYB front mount/bearings and one broke on him during an autocross event (I think the rubber detached or something like that). If you have an opportunity to get OEM ones, I'd do that.
 


foodtruck

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EDIT: psst... @foodtruck ... do you have the part numbers for the bearings and boots?
Whoops, my bad, didn't see notification. Here are the front parts; need 2x of each (one for each side)

1781500583824.png
 


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XanRules

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Thread Starter #9
Cool, thanks - I have generally had very good luck with the KYB parts in the past, but they are more expensive than OEM and I am seeing numerous reports of people having problems with those.

So, to confirm:
Fronts: 2x AD-1141, 2x 8V5Z-18A047A, 2x AD-1133, and that's it?

Rears: I am still lost here, though I concede I am running on very little sleep and mild food poisoning today so my brain isn't exactly running at peak efficiency.

It appears that the entire rear strut assembly is just sold as a single unit including the mounts: https://ford.oempartsonline.com/v-2017-ford-fiesta--st--1-6l-l4-gas/suspension--rear-suspension

so how/where would I get an OEM rear mount?

If I am going aftermarket, RockAuto shows only KYB, Monroe, and Westar, the latter of which I've never heard of. Maybe the Monroes are fine given the options. I'll do more research assuming I am not missing something and there aren't actually OEM rear mounts available.
 


Dialcaliper

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Cool, thanks - I have generally had very good luck with the KYB parts in the past, but they are more expensive than OEM and I am seeing numerous reports of people having problems with those.

So, to confirm:
Fronts: 2x AD-1141, 2x 8V5Z-18A047A, 2x AD-1133, and that's it?

Rears: I am still lost here, though I concede I am running on very little sleep and mild food poisoning today so my brain isn't exactly running at peak efficiency.

It appears that the entire rear strut assembly is just sold as a single unit including the mounts: https://ford.oempartsonline.com/v-2017-ford-fiesta--st--1-6l-l4-gas/suspension--rear-suspension

so how/where would I get an OEM rear mount?

If I am going aftermarket, RockAuto shows only KYB, Monroe, and Westar, the latter of which I've never heard of. Maybe the Monroes are fine given the options. I'll do more research assuming I am not missing something and there aren't actually OEM rear mounts available.
OEM Rear Mount is 8V5Z-18A161-A

The rear shock is sold as an assy with the bumpstop and boot, but the mount is not included


Part is the same between Base and ST Models. Looks like they’re about $90 a piece these days

https://ford.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/ford-upper-mount-8v5z18a161a
 


foodtruck

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#11
So, to confirm:
Fronts: 2x AD-1141, 2x 8V5Z-18A047A, 2x AD-1133, and that's it?
Yes. The only thing I can think of for the fronts is that you should get open wall socket like this (I dont remember for sure if you need 18mm, i would double check) so that you can counter hold the center shaft when you torquing to spec. Another option is passthrough socket with crowfoot adapter for the torque wrench.

OEM Rear Mount is 8V5Z-18A161-A
Wow, thanks, didn't realize that existed. But yeah, I basically took old OEM rear shocks, undid the top nut (I wanted to use it anyway since B14 nuts are too wide for the opening), pulled both mount, boot, and bump stop and moved them all over to B14 rear shocks and installed.
 


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XanRules

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Thread Starter #12
Great, thank you both so much. Fortunately I will have plenty of tools available as I'll be borrowing some shop space, I just want to make sure I have all the parts ready to go before I get started.

Thanks again!
 


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#13
Not sure if this was mentioned but I would replace the lower control arms or at minimum get upgraded bushings.
 


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XanRules

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Thread Starter #14
Not sure if this was mentioned but I would replace the lower control arms or at minimum get upgraded bushings.
This did get mentioned but I wanted to make sure I had all my ducks in a row for the coilovers, specifically, before I asked more. I am not used to LCAs themselves being a wear and tear item, though naturally the bushings wear out.

Is this recommendation just because it's just as easy and not much more expensive to replace the entire control arm with a new one (with new bushings) as it is to just replace the bushings alone?

For example, looking at Whoosh for the sake of convenience, a set of front and rear LCA bushings is $255, and a set of new, lightweight LCAs with front and rear bushings and new ball joints pre-installed is $330. So that makes sense to me as a "while I'm in there" thing, especially since I'll need an alignment after doing the coilovers and would need one after doing the LCAs as well.
 


Sam4

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They're really just 1-piece ball joints, and ball joints poop too.
 


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#16
P
This did get mentioned but I wanted to make sure I had all my ducks in a row for the coilovers, specifically, before I asked more. I am not used to LCAs themselves being a wear and tear item, though naturally the bushings wear out.

Is this recommendation just because it's just as easy and not much more expensive to replace the entire control arm with a new one (with new bushings) as it is to just replace the bushings alone?

For example, looking at Whoosh for the sake of convenience, a set of front and rear LCA bushings is $255, and a set of new, lightweight LCAs with front and rear bushings and new ball joints pre-installed is $330. So that makes sense to me as a "while I'm in there" thing, especially since I'll need an alignment after doing the coilovers and would need one after doing the LCAs as well.
Purely convenience with getting the whole control arm. Definitely a while you are in there situation especially at your mileage. It is also nice if you get upgraded arms as I've read they eliminate torque steer similar to a traction bar. I don't have experience with this but it is on list of things to do.
 


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XanRules

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Thread Starter #17
Thanks y'all, I appreciate you!

I just got laid off so I have plenty of time to mess around with this now, though perhaps less disposable income to spend on it.
 


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XanRules

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Thread Starter #18
Sorry, checking in again before I hit the "buy" button on RockAuto and elsewhere.

It looks like the KYB Front and Rear mounts come with some sort of a bushing or bearing:




But the OEM ones do NOT:




Can anyone say from experience whether or not the little rubber bushings/etc inside the metal mounts are included with the OEM mounts and just not shown in these photos, OR if they are included with the Bilsteins, OR if I have to buy those separately as well?

Thanks again for everything. I just really do not want to get the car up on a lift and go "oh no, I forgot something."
 


foodtruck

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#19
Can anyone say from experience whether or not the little rubber bushings/etc inside the metal mounts are included with the OEM mounts and just not shown in these photos, OR if they are included with the Bilsteins, OR if I have to buy those separately as well?
B14s don't come with any top mounts, the only bushings included are with the rear shocks for the side that connects to twist beam.

Yes, there are separate OEM parts for the mount and the bearing (plus one for the rubber dust cover, so 3 parts in total). I guess KYB includes both in the same part.

Yes, front OEM mount (AD-1141) includes the rubber bushing between the centre ring that connects to the strut shaft and the outer piece of the mount that bolts to the body. I haven't ordered the rear top mount since I was unaware of its existence but it has to include the rubber bushing as well since its all glued/fused together for it to work.
 


foodtruck

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#20
Wrt the rubber bushings on the top mounts, fresh ones will arrive covered with this waxy layer on them which I guess is meant to protect the rubber from the elements, but I smeared a bunch of silicone lube on them for good measure anyway (also to prevent any chance of squeaking from where they're contacting the body)
 


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