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To CAT or not to CAT, that is the question

Colin1337

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#41
The logic that a cat doesn't make a difference literally makes no sense. The cat is a blockage in the flow of exhaust, its slows the exhaust flow thus hindering power. An engine is just a big air compressor, the more air you can get out the more are you can take in the more power you can make.
 


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#42
We posted a 2JR catted vs full race. Search and you shall find your answers. But making bold claims without any data (just personal opinions) makes you appear uneducated.
 


the duke

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#43
The logic that a cat doesn't make a difference literally makes no sense. The cat is a blockage in the flow of exhaust, its slows the exhaust flow thus hindering power. An engine is just a big air compressor, the more air you can get out the more are you can take in the more power you can make.
Or you increase the chamber volume which increases the cross-sectional area and thus reduces the "restriction". Or you drop the pressure to increase the velocity through the same cross-sectional area. Look at that, you've just matched mass-flow. Welcome to the ideal gas law. Or, if the mass-flow rate is low enough, the reduction in cross-sectional areas has little affect as direct/indirect proportionalitys cancel each other out. This isn't even getting into exhaust gas turbulence or heat loss. Hell, depending on the pressure drop before/after the chamber (catted or not) you could completely alter velocity and achieve the same flow rate (Bernoulli).

You guys are completely missing the point of this entire argument. You're thinking in an absolute, not in components. There's isn't only 1 way a catalytic converter is designed/manufactured. There are many other factors involved here.

We posted a 2JR catted vs full race. Search and you shall find your answers. But making bold claims without any data (just personal opinions) makes you appear uneducated.
I saw your dyno test. Single permutation, narrow scope. You haven't given me any numbers (which I don't expect at this point, but really why would you measure pressure delta, etc.) other than a dyno graph of 2 final configurations and a verbal confirmation.

Over-analyzing, being pedantic, call is what you want. The short version is only a very few design parameters were altered. That is not a definitive answer. But, this discussion is over. Clearly we disagree on this subject. I'm not angry, and I mean no harm or discord. In fact, I enjoyed your intake test (eh, modern intake designs are pretty efficient nowadays anyways) and I do like your products.





Besides, I'd be lying if I said I didn't like your nuts...
http://www.2j-racing.com/2jr-forged-chromoly-lug-nuts.html

Do you guys do Titanium machining by chance...?
 


Sekred

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#44
Less restriction after the Turbo, more power and quicker spool-up. Its about as simply as that. Read below from a Garret Engineer.


Turbo Exhaust Theory

The following excerpts are from Jay Kavanaugh, a turbosystems engineer at Garret Engine Boosting Systems.
This thread was brought to my attention by a friend of mine in hopes of shedding some light on the issue of exhaust size selection for turbocharged vehicles. Most of the facts have been covered already. FWIW I'm an turbocharger development engineer for Garrett Engine Boosting Systems.

N/A cars: As most of you know, the design of turbo exhaust systems runs counter to exhaust design for n/a vehicles. N/A cars utilize exhaust velocity (not backpressure) in the collector to aid in scavenging other cylinders during the blowdown process. It just so happens that to get the appropriate velocity, you have to squeeze down the diameter of the discharge of the collector (aka the exhaust), which also induces backpressure. The backpressure is an undesirable byproduct of the desire to have a certain degree of exhaust velocity. Go too big, and you lose velocity and its associated beneficial scavenging effect. Too small and the backpressure skyrockets, more than offsetting any gain made by scavenging. There is a happy medium here.

For turbo cars, you throw all that out the window. You want the exhaust velocity to be high upstream of the turbine (i.e. in the header). You'll notice that primaries of turbo headers are smaller diameter than those of an n/a car of two-thirds the horsepower. The idea is to get the exhaust velocity up quickly, to get the turbo spooling as early as possible. Here, getting the boost up early is a much more effective way to torque than playing with tuned primary lengths and scavenging. The scavenging effects are small compared to what you'd get if you just got boost sooner instead. You have a turbo; you want boost. Just don't go so small on the header's primary diameter that you choke off the high end.

Downstream of the turbine (aka the turboback exhaust), you want the least backpressure possible. No ifs, ands, or buts. Stick a Hoover on the tailpipe if you can. The general rule of "larger is better" (to the point of diminishing returns) of turboback exhausts is valid. Here, the idea is to minimize the pressure downstream of the turbine in order to make the most effective use of the pressure that is being generated upstream of the turbine. Remember, a turbine operates via a pressure ratio. For a given turbine inlet pressure, you will get the highest pressure ratio across the turbine when you have the lowest possible discharge pressure. This means the turbine is able to do the most amount of work possible (i.e. drive the compressor and make boost) with the available inlet pressure.

Again, less pressure downstream of the turbine is goodness. This approach minimizes the time-to-boost (maximizes boost response) and will improve engine VE throughout the rev range.

As for 2.5" vs. 3.0", the "best" turboback exhaust depends on the amount of flow, or horsepower. At 250 hp, 2.5" is fine. Going to 3" at this power level won't get you much, if anything, other than a louder exhaust note. 300 hp and you're definitely suboptimal with 2.5". For 400-450 hp, even 3" is on the small side.”

"As for the geometry of the exhaust at the turbine discharge, the most optimal configuration would be a gradual increase in diameter from the turbine's exducer to the desired exhaust diameter-- via a straight conical diffuser of 7-12? included angle (to minimize flow separation and skin friction losses) mounted right at the turbine discharge. Many turbochargers found in diesels have this diffuser section cast right into the turbine housing. A hyperbolic increase in diameter (like a trumpet snorkus) is theoretically ideal but I've never seen one in use (and doubt it would be measurably superior to a straight diffuser). The wastegate flow would be via a completely divorced (separated from the main turbine discharge flow) dumptube. Due the realities of packaging, cost, and emissions compliance this config is rarely possible on street cars. You will, however, see this type of layout on dedicated race vehicles.

A large "bellmouth" config which combines the turbine discharge and wastegate flow (without a divider between the two) is certainly better than the compromised stock routing, but not as effective as the above.

If an integrated exhaust (non-divorced wastegate flow) is required, keep the wastegate flow separate from the main turbine discharge flow for ~12-18" before reintroducing it. This will minimize the impact on turbine efficiency-- the introduction of the wastegate flow disrupts the flow field of the main turbine discharge flow.

Necking the exhaust down to a suboptimal diameter is never a good idea, but if it is necessary, doing it further downstream is better than doing it close to the turbine discharge since it will minimize the exhaust's contribution to backpressure. Better yet: don't neck down the exhaust at all.

Also, the temperature of the exhaust coming out of a cat is higher than the inlet temperature, due to the exothermic oxidation of unburned hydrocarbons in the cat. So the total heat loss (and density increase) of the gases as it travels down the exhaust is not as prominent as it seems.
Another thing to keep in mind is that cylinder scavenging takes place where the flows from separate cylinders merge (i.e. in the collector). There is no such thing as cylinder scavenging downstream of the turbine, and hence, no reason to desire high exhaust velocity here. You will only introduce unwanted backpressure.

Other things you can do (in addition to choosing an appropriate diameter) to minimize exhaust backpressure in a turboback exhaust are: avoid crush-bent tubes (use mandrel bends); avoid tight-radius turns (keep it as straight as possible); avoid step changes in diameter; avoid "cheated" radii (cuts that are non-perpendicular); use a high flow cat; use a straight-thru perforated core muffler... etc.”

"Comparing the two bellmouth designs, I've never seen either one so I can only speculate. But based on your description, and assuming neither of them have a divider wall/tongue between the turbine discharge and wg dump, I'd venture that you'd be hard pressed to measure a difference between the two. The more gradual taper intuitively appears more desirable, but it's likely that it's beyond the point of diminishing returns. Either one sounds like it will improve the wastegate's discharge coefficient over the stock config, which will constitute the single biggest difference. This will allow more control over boost creep. Neither is as optimal as the divorced wastegate flow arrangement, however.

There's more to it, though-- if a larger bellmouth is excessively large right at the turbine discharge (a large step diameter increase), there will be an unrecoverable dump loss that will contribute to backpressure. This is why a gradual increase in diameter, like the conical diffuser mentioned earlier, is desirable at the turbine discharge.

As for primary lengths on turbo headers, it is advantageous to use equal-length primaries to time the arrival of the pulses at the turbine equally and to keep cylinder reversion balanced across all cylinders. This will improve boost response and the engine's VE. Equal-length is often difficult to achieve due to tight packaging, fabrication difficulty, and the desire to have runners of the shortest possible length.”

"Here's a worked example (simplified) of how larger exhausts help turbo cars:

Say you have a turbo operating at a turbine pressure ratio (aka expansion ratio) of 1.8:1. You have a small turboback exhaust that contributes, say, 10 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge at redline. The total backpressure seen by the engine (upstream of the turbine) in this case is:

(14.5 +10)*1.8 = 44.1 psia = 29.6 psig total backpressure

o here, the turbine contributed 19.6 psig of backpressure to the total.

Now you slap on a proper low-backpressure, big turboback exhaust. Same turbo, same boost, etc. You measure 3 psig backpressure at the turbine discharge. In this case the engine sees just 17 psig total backpressure! And the turbine's contribution to the total backpressure is reduced to 14 psig (note: this is 5.6 psig lower than its contribution in the "small turboback" case).

So in the end, the engine saw a reduction in backpressure of 12.6 psig when you swapped turbobacks in this example. This reduction in backpressure is where all the engine's VE gains come from.

This is why larger exhausts make such big gains on nearly all stock turbo cars-- the turbine compounds the downstream backpressure via its expansion ratio. This is also why bigger turbos make more power at a given boost level-- they improve engine VE by operating at lower turbine expansion ratios for a given boost level.

As you can see, the backpressure penalty of running a too-small exhaust (like 2.5" for 350 hp) will vary depending on the match. At a given power level, a smaller turbo will generally be operating at a higher turbine pressure ratio and so will actually make the engine more sensitive to the backpressure downstream of the turbine than a larger turbine/turbo would.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #47
Lots of good info for people that will undoubtedly be wondering the same thing in the future.
 


me32

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#48
Based on sound I would like to stay with a cat. but time will tell and MPG will make my choice on cat or no cat
 


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#49
Where I come from we used to gut the cat with a long screwdriver, is there any way to do that on the fiesta cat?

I liked the idea that you simply gut the inside of the oem part, it's 99% unnoticable,
 


RAAMaudio

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#50
Take a look at the stock cat and the whole downpipe, terribly restrictive so gutting will not do a great deal for you, a bit yes, not really enough to warrant it.
 


Sourskittle

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#51
Are we really debating/talking about this AGAIN? Lol. Geez.... Everything from a 1985 turbo omni to a brand new BMW 335i sees good gains from removing the cat. It reduces egt's prob more than any other mod ( other then W/I ).
 


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#52
sourskittle, i knew that is was a good thing to to for power gain... i was just wondering if simply gutting the oem cat was an effectife and free mod..

i did that on my last 3 pickup and it was a HUGE improvemente..

and free
 


airjor13

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#53
sourskittle, i knew that is was a good thing to to for power gain... i was just wondering if simply gutting the oem cat was an effectife and free mod..

i did that on my last 3 pickup and it was a HUGE improvemente..

and free
The problem is not so much with the "gutting" process but the flow limitations of the stock CAT. It's an extremely restrictive design, heavy and for sure you will see some small gains if you gut it but why bother? The 2J pipe is I believe $250 and you can always save your stock CAT for whatever reason down the road intact.
 


Sourskittle

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#54
I'm going to put free silicone from work into my rmm cause I'm so broke. I already cut out parts of my stock air box using the stock filter because I'm so broke.

I gutted the cat on my 7.3L diesel truck and 1987 cherokee and many before that.

For the work involved in that, on this car, with the $250 2j racing DP around, its just not worth it, the work or the gains. And I didn't mean the "Original post", i meant this argument about gas flow dynamics vs turbo experience and knowledge. Its been shown on countless turbo cars, countless times, on coutless dyno's, but people still want to argue about the performance gains from ditching the cat. Its not even an argument....
 


RAAMaudio

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#55
Have you looked at the stock cat? the piping into is off to the side, outlet off to the other side, tiny and then has a sensor in it, the most restrictive design I have ever seen.

It might do a bit for you but not much to gut it, sorry, sucks but it is what it is, terrible.
 


iso100

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#56
Gutting a catalytic converter introduces an area where the exhaust tubing volume expands (slowing velocity) and then immediately necks down again (increasing velocity). This is not a great thing for flow.

I suggest keeping the stock downpipe in storage and throwing on an aftermarket dp that has no cat.
 


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