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Under Seat Subwoofer Install Overview (Kenwood KSC-SW11)

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Sacramento, CA, USA
#41
This is a bit confusing as you say you can see the sub driver moving which would seem to indicate power and signal, but it isn't particularly audible. I'm not terribly familiar with this thing's internal configuration but it could be possible if there is a power issue it may be running just off the line input from your speaker taps, but if that were the case my guess is it wouldn't move enough to be visible.

At any rate some troubleshooting might be in order.

First look at the remote for the sub, does it illuminate blue when the vehicle is powered on? This should give you a pretty good indication of your power and signal wiring. If it turns blue when the car is powered on initially that means it both has power and the signal is correctly configured. If it does not illuminate that right there tells us your power is no good or your signal cable isn't properly configured to turn the sub on. I guess there could also be a slight chance the remote isn't properly connected if the light doesn't come on so maybe just check that to be safe ;) If there light works properly and still no sound, we continue on...

For the rest of the testing period you may want to set the crossover as high as possible as that gives us the most room to work with in acquiring a signal.

First, recheck to make sure your ground has a good secure connection to either a nice factory ground point or to a substantial bare metal surface that is somehow integrated into the frame. If you used the same ground point I did just make sure it is bolted down securely and not positioned in a strange way that prevents it from having a good metal to metal contact on the frame.

Once that is done I'd suggest trying to rule out the signal input as a possible issue. Do you have a headphone to RCA stereo adapter handy? This will give us the benefit of ruling out speaker tap issues and letting the sub play by itself so it is easy to hear. Try hooking directly into your phone or similar device and plugging the other end into the sub's RCA inputs. With the phone's volume all the way up and while playing a bass heavy song it should give you a clear indication if it is working. If it does work directly connected to your phone, then it sounds like your speaker taps have something awry. If it does not work, then something else is amiss.

If you don't have a suitable rca adapter you can rig up to you could try grounding one of the female rca cables maybe with a paperclip held in your hand. That should create an audible buzzing. Not ideal but, ehhh...

If that fails, last ditch effort I would say is hooking the power and ground wires directly to a car battery with the audio signal configured as we talked about before. If that doesn't work something is probably wrong internally with the sub considering we basically just eliminated the car itself, and the majority of potential point so failure, from the picture.

As far as normal operation, if you play a bass heavy song and the sub is working correctly, you should easily be able to tell the difference between the volume knob on the sub's controller being all the way up versus all the way down. It's not a powerful sub to be sure, but there should still be an immediately noticeable difference.

Good luck, hoping it is something easy to find and correct! Let us know.

Hijacking this older thread because I'm having the same issue that Motorstate was having, but my rear speakers, which I'm tapped into, are still working properly so I'm having trouble figuring out what's wrong here. I followed your install guide to a T. I tested that the sub is getting power by using the aux to RCA method you suggested with my phone, but when connecting to the RCA connectors coming from the speaker taps I get nothing. Since I'm still getting sound to both rear speakers, wouldn't that rule out the possibility of any bad connections?
 




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