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Upper Deck Reinforcement shims

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#2
I have run them and didn't have the cylinders warp. But did have the liners crack, which is also a failure point to these engines.

I am building a brand new block atm and have these shims ready to plug in, just to be sure warping isn't an issue. For the price it can't hurt to use these shims.
 


dhminer

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#3
I have run them and didn't have the cylinders warp. But did have the liners crack, which is also a failure point to these engines.

I am building a brand new block atm and have these shims ready to plug in, just to be sure warping isn't an issue. For the price it can't hurt to use these shims.
What are you doing on the new block to prevent liner cracks? Sleeving it?
 


OP
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Thread Starter #4
I have run them and didn't have the cylinders warp. But did have the liners crack, which is also a failure point to these engines.

I am building a brand new block atm and have these shims ready to plug in, just to be sure warping isn't an issue. For the price it can't hurt to use these shims.
Was there much to install?
Did you have to cool them or heat the block.
Did you need to resurface the block deck after or anything like that.
Thanks for the info
 


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#5
What are you doing on the new block to prevent liner cracks? Sleeving it?
Lowering boost and timing to prevent knock and overheating. Was eventually my issue running too much timing and boost for too low an octane fuel.
Did consider getting it sleeved, but might get the old block sleeved if it doesn't last.

Was there much to install?
Did you have to cool them or heat the block.
Did you need to resurface the block deck after or anything like that.
Thanks for the info
I didn't install them last time, my mechanic did. And he didn't deck the block and I think he just smacked them in. No heating or cooling. This was years ago and he probably doesn't even remember anymore.
When I get to it, waiting on main/conrod bearings, I'll report back on how they fit. If they fit below the deck.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #6
Lowering boost and timing to prevent knock and overheating. Was eventually my issue running too much timing and boost for too low an octane fuel.
Did consider getting it sleeved, but might get the old block sleeved if it doesn't last.


I didn't install them last time, my mechanic did. And he didn't deck the block and I think he just smacked them in. No heating or cooling. This was years ago and he probably doesn't even remember anymore.
When I get to it, waiting on main/conrod bearings, I'll report back on how they fit. If they fit below the deck.
Thanks man appreciate that
 


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#7
The shims are loose. The length will keep them in place once the head and headgasket is on.

I'm contemplating giving them a tiny bit of oil/coolant resistant gasket to firm up the fit before fitting the head.
 


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OP
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Thread Starter #8
The shims are loose. The length will keep them in place once the head and headgasket is on.

I'm contemplating giving them a tiny bit of oil/coolant resistant gasket to firm up the fit before fitting the head.
Let me know how this all goes and keep me updated please!
Planning to do this soon I'm trying to avoid an Eco boom
 


OP
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Thread Starter #9
The shims are loose. The length will keep them in place once the head and headgasket is on.

I'm contemplating giving them a tiny bit of oil/coolant resistant gasket to firm up the fit before fitting the head.
Dude those shims look hella loose. Is that normal??? I figured there'd be at least an interference fit because they're supposed to push against the liner to reinforce that area.
How would they even work if there's that much clearance????!
 


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#10
Dude those shims look hella loose. Is that normal??? I figured there'd be at least an interference fit because they're supposed to push against the liner to reinforce that area.
How would they even work if there's that much clearance????!
My thoughts excactly but it's to avoid excessive movement and before they look like this:
jtjb_block.jpg

Remember the block I will install them into is brand new with no warping. A little warping wouldn't hurt the engine as there is tolereances for this excact reason. Everything moves with heatcycles and wear.
 


OP
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Thread Starter #11
My thoughts excactly but it's to avoid excessive movement and before they look like this:
View attachment 59814

Remember the block I will install them into is brand new with no warping. A little warping wouldn't hurt the engine as there is tolereances for this excact reason. Everything moves with heatcycles and wear.
When I talked to puma speed they said there are two sizes and recommended I get both because they said my block is probably already a little warped
 


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#12
When I talked to puma speed they said there are two sizes and recommended I get both because they said my block is probably already a little warped
Surprised they mention there's 2 sizes. I should have an old kit lying around somewhere. Will try and find them and see if the new vs old is different in thickness.
Doesn't say on their website.
https://pumaspeed.co.uk/product-Pumaspeed-Fiesta-ST-Block-Mod-Kit_17396.jsp
 


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Location
Pharr, TX, USA
#13
I ordered both sizes and I used the thicker ones. The cylinder that was cracked/warped I used a thinner one and I just banged them in. Added some barsleak copper seal and now I'm up and running again 😎
 




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